Let me clarify about the rubber gasket.
It is between the two halves of the valve. It has little valleys engraved in it for the different settings. The white piece has a spring washer on it for tension. I broke the -- tips (hooks) of the tabs off so they no longer protrude out past the control...
I had my stereo out at the time.
You can try to reach up from the bottom but it is probably
easier in the long run to just pull the control assy from the front.
It only has 4 screws + what is attached. 10 -15 minutes.
Once out you will see where the 9 vacuum lines connected to a
vacuum...
I just went through this with my 87.
Yes that line to dash should hold vacuum.
With controls turned off there should be no leak.
If it holds vacuum then try each setting to track down the leak.
On mine the vacuum select valve was bad. It is located on the back of the controls. It has about 9...
Thanks, those are the #s I need.
I've been chasing an intermittent vacuum leak for
some time now. It looks like the retainer that holds the
the two halves of the valve together gets brittle with age and
eventually brakes.
Anyone have the part# for the vacuum switch
thats located behind the AC Control Panel.
It's the one with all the pretty colored vacuum lines :) .
I have been tracking down leaks and this seems to be the source.
I have the Casper's tool and am trying to set the sensor. I turned the crank from 0 to 25, stopped at 25 and then rotated the cam sensor from clock wise to counter-clockwise and locked it down. Now if I turn the crank past 25 degrees and come back to 25, the LED is off by about 25...
I understand a 1uf 50V capacitor can be soldered across diode CR10 to reduce fan relay noise. Is this an electrolytic (polarized) capacitor and if so, does the + go to the anode of CR10? Thanks.