100 mph question?

[John84GN]

Fellas, I finnally broke the 100 mph barrier for the first time last night running my buddy's 96 Cobra. My digital dash was blinking @ 85, of course, but he told me we hit 110.

Anyway, when we parked to go grab a bite to eat, as I sat in the parking lot for a minute, to let the turbo "spool down" for a minute before I shut it off, I heard a ticking sound. I've narrowed it down to the passenger side, and I think it's coming from under the valve cover...ie...maybe a lifter. The sound is more noticeable with the hood shut, than open. I don't think that it's the piping, and I don't think its the header. I just had all that off about 2 months ago when I put the turbo on and all the ATR piping. So...if I change the oil, and go from 10w-30 to like 10w-40 or something...or marvel mystery oil...would this work...any suggestions are appreciated...I'm no doing any of this yet, I just want opinions first.

Thanks in advance, John

 

[John84GN]

ANYBODY?!?

 

[cool 84]

Did you use gaskets when you installed your headers? If so it's most likely a header leak. You'd be really surprised how much a single cylinder leak will sound like a lifter. You can try going heavier or lighter on the oil, I've solved lifter ticking problems both ways.

The easiest way to tell if it's headers or lifter is the header leak will get louder the more load you put on the motor while the lifter is only dependant on rpm.

 

[BuickBeast]

IF it is a loud knocking noise you could have a rod bearing that spun out. If this is the case have your crank inspected. My car broke a 100 mph barrier and when we were driving home we heard a ticking(Which turned to a knock), turned out to be a spun out rod bearing. This F*@%ed up my whole bottom end (crank and a rod). So If you don't figure out what the noise is from you might whant to check this out before something bad could happen.

 

[kh440]

I would agree with cool84, definitely check the header gaskets, possibly the header itself (especially if using factory units--you didn't specify in your post) after rewelding mine for the third time I bit the bullett and got the headers and crossover pipe from Poston as well as the copper gaskets----much happier with them!!! Also stay away from 10w-40 oil, it does not stand up to high heat and engine stress. stay with 10w-30 conventional or blended oils, or go to 15w-50 Mobil 1. My 87 got switched over to that the day I brought it home (brand new) 95,000 miles later the engine is still holding great pressure, no sludge whatsoever, and still has the 1987 GM factory turbo!!! When the 1985 is ready to hit the road again that's whats going in it as well...

 

[John84GN]

thanks for the replys fellas...as far as the headers go, I had to take them off to install the downpipe, and I didn't put gastkets back on the headers, b/c there weren't any on there to begin with. I put some weld on a few places that I saw were cracked.

Also, the sound is not a knock...but a tick. I don't seem to here it as I raise the RPM. I slowly raised the RPM while under the hood, and I brought it motor up to about 3000 to 4000 RPM, and there was no knock, or rattle (kinda like a diesel sound)...nothing. When the car returned to idle, there was the ticking again
The sound is not loud, but noticeable, at least to me it is.

I don't like this sound b/c I lost 2 motors in my n/a regal, do to low oil pressure...and it all started with this sounding tick

As far as the oil goes, the owner before me (to only one, I'm the second one to own the car) uses pennsoil. I'm not too crazy about it, but I was a little scared to go to a different brand b/c the car has 72,000 miles on it...am I correct? OR should I go to Mobil 1

Thanks

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

personally i dont like synthetic oils i stick to valvoline

you might be wipeing out a lobe on the cam time to pull the valve covers and take a look around for a rocker not moving as much as the rest

 

[kh440]

you can switch to synthetic at any time, you might want to run an oil pressure and compression check, if you already have low psi or weak compression you're better off not switching (it won't help either problem), probably want to check those things anyway just for a little peace of mind as faras potential engine trouble, but I still think it's exhaust related.....good luck.....

 

[John84GN]

thanks for the reply's guys...

I did some more homework, and driving. The sound just disappears when I'm driving, but is faint when at idle. I'm starting to think that yes, it is exhaust related.

2 Questions:

1. Can I just switch to another oil, whether it be Mobil 1 or Valvoline? I don't want to go to synthetic, I'm one of those big fans on "real oil...oil" if that makes sense...I don't want something invented or brewed in a lab...anyway...

2. Is it OK for me to have no header gaskets, or should I go get some, and if I do, what do I ask for specifically, and who should I get it from?

Thanks

 

[cool 84]

Don't use exhaust gaskets. I used to have a problem with header bolts loosening up. Don't know why but they just wouldn't stay tight. When I heard the ticking it was time to check the bolts. I'd check the bolts. If it is a lifter, changing to a different oil should make it louder or quieter but you should hear a difference.

 

[kh440]

Again, i would have to agree with cool84, so long as the manifolds are reasonably straight (not visibly warped) you're probably better off with no gasket. With headers, i'd use the copper gaskets poston offers (found out the hard way they don't seal very well without them). As far as the oil, go ahead and switch, maybe add a pint of marvel mystery oil to the engine a day or two before you change it drive as normal and try to drain the oil when still warm (but not at full temp)--definitely stay away from those "instant flush" products----good way to lose an engine! And while this may be apples to oranges, I have a 440 roadrunner that seems to prefer valvoline conventional--good luck, let us know how it ends up!!!!!!!