16.4 knock

corymc

Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
i just installed the rjc boost controller took it for a dig and got 16.4 knock and 714 mil. what does this all mean my oil is fine. the road i took it down is relatively new and rather smooth. why would i get that much knock? got up to 20# boost and havent ran that much through this engine yet. i still have a stock turbo on, stock rocker arms and duttneck ic on cuz i havent had time to change them yet. but everything else is in my sig

fp is set at 45 line off
 
i shut it off when i came in here and posted that then i restarted let it run for about 5 min and this is what i got
o2 590s-671
af 08
l8 47-58
bat 13.8
int 128
bl 117
clt 164
ats 46
r 825-900
tps .46
iac 00
cc 205
mal 00

i shut it off for like 30 sec and restarted and waited a few mins and i got these numbers
o2 660-695
af 10
l8 62
bat 13.9
int 128
bl 128
clt 162
ats 47
r 900-925
tps .44 - .46
iac 00
cc 03 then i gave it some gas and got up to 89
mal 00

can i get any help with these?
 
Well, with a stock IC... I wouldnt really want to see the car over 17 PSI... nevermind 20.

Other then your TPS being a tad high... thats all fine.

Also, your WOT fuel would like to be a lil more, what chip do you run? Maybe its cuase of the overboosting...
 
i have the newest version of turbo tweak and i just put on the boost controler i was only running 15 psi before
isnt tps supposed to be .44 engine off
 
I agree, no more than 17 on the stock IC, O2 should be 780-maybe 800 on the extra safe side, try going to 15 psi and gently going up from there...17 max...
 
Only 16.4? That's nothin. I've hit 30 before yo! Still running strong with 25 psi of oil pressure and no smoke. Haha :redface: gulp. Just because of all my past problems when I first got the car, always getting in the teens in knock until I got my turbotweak chip and injectors, I'm surprised the car is still running so well. It's almost perfect, even with the oil pan off can't notice anything really. However, I'm only a stock car with 16 lbs of boost sooo......4.1 budget build coming up next summer!
 
i just installed the rjc boost controller took it for a dig and got 16.4 knock and 714 mil. what does this all mean my oil is fine. the road i took it down is relatively new and rather smooth. why would i get that much knock? got up to 20# boost and havent ran that much through this engine yet. i still have a stock turbo on, stock rocker arms and duttneck ic on cuz i havent had time to change them yet. but everything else is in my sig

fp is set at 45 line off

What fuel are you running?

I'd think you would need octane near 100 to handle 20 PSI without Alchy... :)
 
only 94. I just got the boost controler and it turned out to be set at 20# after i put it on. i have only been running 14-15 before that. just wonderin if its real shouldnt i have blown a head gasket or some thing bad happen to the car
 
Some people are lucky and knock the balls outta an engine and never have any problems, others blow head gaskets, pancake rod bearings or break rods......dont join the group uf unluckys (whick happens to be larger than the group of luckys....) and play it safe, you want boost, get alky....;)
 
i just installed the rjc boost controller took it for a dig and got 16.4 knock and 714 mil. what does this all mean my oil is fine. the road i took it down is relatively new and rather smooth. why would i get that much knock? got up to 20# boost and havent ran that much through this engine yet. i still have a stock turbo on, stock rocker arms and duttneck ic on cuz i havent had time to change them yet. but everything else is in my sig fp is set at 45 line off





i shut it off when i came in here and posted that then i restarted let it run for about 5 min and this is what i got
o2 590s-671
af 08
l8 47-58
bat 13.8
int 128
bl 117
clt 164
ats 46
r 825-900
tps .46
iac 00
cc 205
mal 00

i shut it off for like 30 sec and restarted and waited a few mins and i got these numbers
o2 660-695
af 10
l8 62
bat 13.9
int 128
bl 128
clt 162
ats 47
r 900-925
tps .44 - .46
iac 00
cc 03 then i gave it some gas and got up to 89
mal 00

can i get any help with these?


There a few things I see, and Me thinks :( .........
1. Your boost/timing is too high for the gas you are running. You need some octane or alky.
2. 16.4 knock and 714 - If that is real KR (most likely it is) and, you see this at WOT, you are lean. :eek:
3. Your MAF numbers seem too high at idle.
4. Your IAC seems off. You can in fact run the car with the IAC at 0, but most code/chip writers recommend 10-20 @ hot idle.
 
Throttle needs adjustment. IAC idle at 0 means the throttle plate is open too much, and the ECM cannot control the idle. This is why your idle is a bit high, and MAF is high at idle. The rest is in line.


This, however, is unrelated to your overly aggressive boosting if you're on pump gas. ;)
 
i dunno im all forged internals, head studs, hr engine mounts ( the stage 2 ones) and the hr tranny mount but im turning the boost down and takin it for a ride again cuz the roads dried up. i want to know how to get zero knock and whats a decent number of knock to try to stay under. i think i have a pretty good combo just need to learn how to dial it in better. ps i am havin an exhuast leak from the bottom of my dp too. i need to get that fixed but could that cause some of the problems. i think my car is slow but anybody who rides in it says its fast. but before i rebuilt it i had 22# on 110
 
i let the car warm up turned the idle down some then had to readjust the tps i set it at .42 engine off and when i floored it engine off i only got 4.36 isnt this a bit low? gonna go for a ride now and see if anything is better
 
i let the car warm up turned the idle down some then had to readjust the tps i set it at .42 engine off and when i floored it engine off i only got 4.36 isnt this a bit low? gonna go for a ride now and see if anything is better

4.36 is fine, unless your chip maker specifies otherwise. Vortex Turbo Buick Performance check out the tps setting section
 
i drove it around and after i adjusted the idle and have new numbers
o2 636-690
af 7
l8 46
int 128
bl 117
ats 52
r 800-900
tps .42
iac 27
cc 153
mal 00

i think i am just gonna take the boost controler off cuz before the most i got was 3.2 of knock
 
What octane is in the tank. If its 94.. no playing with boost. Put some 110 in the tank or get an alky kit.. then you can play.
 
im not trying to play with boost i just thought i would try out an RJC boost controller and it ended up gettin up to 20# on my first run. I backed it down to about 16# and i still got 10.4 so i dont know. my TT chip is made for 16-18# so i am just going to take the boost controller off and just use the wastegate rod for now until i add alky.
 
714 millivolts is lean, and 20 pounds of boost on pump gas is insane. Do you know anything about engines/turbos etc? A turbo'd hot rod in the hands of someone who's never worked on a car is like russian roulette with 5 bullets in the chamber. You may get lucky and not blow the motor the first time you overboost, but the next time is almost a mathematical certainty. You need high octane fuel or alky injection. If you cant afford 7 bucks a gallon like me, get alky injection and tune it properly and dont overboost. Spend some time with the boost at 13psi and learn a little more about engines and turbocharging. No need to remove the RJC controller. Its a good piece that helps the turbo spool faster, no matter where you have the boost set. But do turn the boost down immediately.
If this is a fairly new car for you, spend time learing about electronic fuel injection, and all the sensors and things that make it work. Then dial them all in, replcae as many as you can, replace all the hoses you can, and get some heater hose to use as a stethoscope, and listen at the base of each fuel injector for a sucking/hissing sound, while the engine is idling. I hit 15 degrees retard when I got my car, and it was mostly because I had 2 injectors with torn o-rings, a ton of bad leaking hoses, and the intake gasket was that steel shimstock crap that never seals right, and had loose black RTV silicone hanging all over it...that crap never lasts once it comes in contact with oils (permatex "the right stuff" is the only thing to use)...people think silicone is the cure for varying compression over the surface of the intake gaskets...if you need silicone to seal things up, its not right and WILL leak under boost and vacuum. It'll blow right out and your engine will suck it right up. The factory machining tolerances are too far off for a thin steel shim gasket to seal everywhere...pull that intake manifold off, replace the PCV grommet, pull all the injectors out and inspect them and their o-rings, and replace the intake gasket with a fel-pro 1 piece pan style gasket. Use an exacto knife to trim out any gasket that protrudes into the intake ports. Replacing that intake gasket made a massive difference in driveability and idle quality on my car. You can have 1 or 2 cylinders that have big vacuum leaks, which will trigger detonation even at low boost..I hit that 15 degrees of retard at only 13psi.
 
IM pullen hard at 24#s with 94 octane and no knock?...maybe 1 to 2.1.. running ta49 with duttneck, If i have one more good day before the snow flys im turning it down.

Some folks like whoa dude thats awsome then others like whoa dude shes gonna blow so im just gonna turn mine down until spring and alky
 
IM pullen hard at 24#s with 94 octane and no knock?...maybe 1 to 2.1.. running ta49 with duttneck, If i have one more good day before the snow flys im turning it down.

Some folks like whoa dude thats awsome then others like whoa dude shes gonna blow so im just gonna turn mine down until spring and alky

Must be the magic EGR plate:D
 
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