20 year old suspension bits being stubborn..

[87TTypeKid]

In the process of re-doing my front end, I'm realizing that 20 year old nuts and bolts seldom enjoy being removed, as per the resolved argument between my dremel and upper shock mount bolt. The destruction of 1 c-clamp also leads me to believe that the front retaining bolt on the lower control arm is seized to hell.

I have new suspension pieces arriving tomorrow, but they are no good to me if I cant get the old ones out. Any recommendations on the following procedures-

1) upper control arm removal (tips for tapping out the splined mount bolts when there's no room to hit them with anything)

2) lower control arm bolt removal if the bolts are seized into the inner sleeve of the bushing and can't be hit out with a sledgehammer nor pressed out with a fabricated tool consisting of a c-clamp and a piece of an aluminum pipe (and penetrating lube seems not to work)

3) removal of old bushings from control arms

4) removal of lower ball joint from control arm

I'd preferrably like to stay away from methods involving a torch, considering that there's an as-of-yet-unlocated gasoline smell (most likely a dead vapor line) and I want to live slightly longer than the 23 years that I have already lived.

Also, my car is on jackstands to do this, so my mobility is limited...extremely...and the gravel driveway hurts to roll around on..haha.

Thanks for the help for all who can provide info from experience. I just want my suspension back up to snuff so I can get back to pissing off my import friends by having a larger car that can still handle just as well as they can (Incase anyone's curious- as far as the publications that I have read can tell me, a T-type in good shape can pull the same .80 g's that a WRX can, which, before my whole front end one day took a dump randomly, I can agree with).

 

[Dabigguy]

Try PB Blaster. That stuff is great !!! Spurt some on all connections and let it set.....spray more and let it soak in. Work the bolts off a turn or two, spray more and tighten it back up to allow it to penetrate into the threads, These cars have 20 years of rust on them. It may take several applications to get the bolts out. The bushings.......once you get them off the car, take it to a machine shop that has a press or if you have a big vise, you can use that and some creative adapters.

 

[zeus87gn]

Hey TKid,

Here's some advice for you, as I have already done what you are about to learn...

- Penetrating oil is good, but Air tools are you friend in removing old bolts. They have been some of my best tool investments...and I bought cheapos from my local hardware store.

- You will not be able to change the bushings on your control arms without a press and/or the proper tooling. Don't even bother. Take the arms to a shop that can do it correctly. You will save yourself a lot of time and blood/sweat/tears/profanity and they should be able to do the ball joint as well.

I had my stock arms rebuilt with PST bushings by my local Buick dealer (with correct GM tooling) and I still have problems. I lost one of the upper bushings and decided to replace the arm with a used one temporarily. I am going for new tubular arms in the near future...both upper and lower.

- Your splined bolts should come out with the correct application of force. I really can't help here as I stripped my splines with an impact wrench like a big dummy. Only other idea that comes to mind is removing parts to get at them as needed. I had to remove my steering shaft to change my bad arm that I mentioned above. Slipped right off my welded bolts. Maybe you could take out the downpipe on the p/s? Lousy idea, but that's all that comes to mind.

HTH

 

[BOOSTEDGNs]

if you dont own a compressor, electric impact gun is the next best thing.

Sears has them


Alan

 

[stickybones]

(tips for tapping out the splined mount bolts when there's no room to hit them with anything)

You know you don't have to remove these to remove the upper control arms. It's tight, but the arms should come off (and out of the car) with these bolts firmly in place. If you're trying to remove them for some other reason, then nevermind what I said.

 

[breiter]

If you are trying to remove / replace the bushings on the rear end ears then buy the removal / install tool from HR Stuff. I did it the hard way and I wish I had spent the money on the tool. I replaced my upper and lower control arms because the stock upper and lower control arms are junk. The new control arms came with bushings already installed. Spray the bolts down with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight. I used a combination of extensions, swivels and air tools to get the upper control arm bolts out. The car was on a lift with the suspension unloaded and tires were off. Good luck.