#5 bushing questions

CzyKats44

This is the way.
Joined
Jun 28, 2014
I'm following the GNTType steps for body mount replacement ... I lifted the back swapped out the #6 and 7s and popped in the #5s.

The body holes for the number 5 are off about an inch outboard and aft... Is this an issue if the top peg doesn't insert? The rest are still aligned. See pic.

Also, upon settling the rear back down the body is supported by the #5 and is not touching the 6 and 7 ...

Do I have to use the jack and body bolt to draw it in? See pic
 

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I'm following the GNTType steps for body mount replacement ... I lifted the back swapped out the #6 and 7s and popped in the #5s.

The body holes for the number 5 are off about an inch outboard and aft... Is this an issue if the top peg doesn't insert? The rest are still aligned. See pic.

Also, upon settling the rear back down the body is supported by the #5 and is not touching the 6 and 7 ...

Do I have to use the jack and body bolt to draw it in? See pic
Hey , I know this is an old post can iask you about your bushing replacement job ? thank you
 
Haha, no prob. What's up?

Sent from my Spaceship.
Kinda wanted to see how it went ? you posted to were hung up on the GNX bushings , body was sitting too high ? did you use the energy suspension ones ? how was the car before & after ?
 
I used the rubber reproduction bushings. Mine is no race car. After I posted this I continued on and it seems the #5 settled a bit. I still used the jack to position the bushing on the body of the #7 because I didn't like using the threads to draw it in. After all was said and done. Wow what a difference. It went from this sloppy, loose, creaky ride to something closer to a unibody feel (not crazy shake your teeth out stiff but piece of mind solid).

Sent from my Spaceship.
 
Right side #4 and #6 bolts snapped on me so the captive nuts were cut out. Other than that it went pretty smooth. Doing it on jack stands kinda sucked but that's what I have to work with.

Sent from my Spaceship.
 
Right side #4 and #6 bolts snapped on me so the captive nuts were cut out. Other than that it went pretty smooth. Doing it on jack stands kinda sucked but that's what I have to work with.

Sent from my Spaceship.
I was gonna pull both bumpers to be safe , is there any need to disconnect any steering , fuel stuff or is there enough slack to squeeze new bushings in ?
 
Bumpers off for sure, put some painters tape on your fillers when you are ready to go back on, where they may potentially scratch.

No issues with steering or fuel line. I only moved the body enough to move the blocks (slow pump, wiggle bushing, repeat).

Also, cut about 3 inches off a 2x4 to make a block. I placed it next to the block I was working on while I had my hands up there.

Sent from my Spaceship.
 
do you have an e mail address I would like to do a point form list , maybe you could look at it for me ?
 
I took the power steering reservoir off when I did mine. Used rubber as I didn't like the harsh ride.

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5 years ago I went with energy. Hated the ride, some don't mind it though. I just switched to Kirbans a few weeks ago and love the ride.

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They were easy only because I put anti-seize on the bolts. If you have a car in the rust belt, be prepared for broken bolts and frame rot. Kirban sells repair washers and new bolts

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Shoulda got back to you , job is all done , broke two retainers , not a big deal . Kinda stressful , glad its done , thanks foe your advice
 
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