You can type here any text you want

700r4 help

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Joined
Apr 16, 2006
Messages
162
I have a 700r4 I rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. Then the converter went out. I wan't 100% on the pump so I replaced the whole pump assembly and the converter. Now it won't shift out of 2nd unless I manually downshift to first. Sound like a stuck tv valve to anyone? The tv won't self adjust like it should either.....

Just want another opinion before I tear into again. Its getting frustrating....
 
Transmissions in general (reguardless of manufacture) are very much intollerant of any debris floating through it's veins(fluid).
While the actual geartrain and friction clutches can absorb some, the clearances inside the valve body and pump won't tollerate solid particulates floating through before they imbed into the aluminum causing the spool valves to begin sticking/seizing in their respective bores(very tight clearances and hardened spool valve materials force the debris to imbed into the aluminum bodies/sleaves).
Many of you have drained transmissions to see the magnet(s) covered with a extremely fine dusting of ferrous metal(iron/steel) but won't catch worn aluminum particulates which can only come from the case(highly unlikely) or more probably the front pump rotor/vanes chewing pump face from a thrust control issue(ballooned converter) or the aluminum stator inside the converter is rubbing something the wrong way inside.
Either way, once the debris is floating along with the fluid, you don't have much choice other than a very detailed flushing of the transmission/cooler/lines, let alone the new converter you just put in after NOT cleaning up the mess from previous mechanical failure,(shit does happen for a reason, repair the actual cause of failed part is the only way for successfull solution).
Good luck,

Kevin.
 
I DID clean up the mess. Please don't make assumptions. There is/was no debris. Trans, v/b, and cooler were cleaned. Old pump was fine but was out of another used transmission so I didn't trust it. Thats why the new one was put in. The converter failure was my fault I believe, I didn't have the lockup wired properly.

Pulled the governer and it moves freely and gear is like new. Dropped the pan and pulled the tv plunger, bushing, and spring. Couldn't get the actual valve to move with the v/b still in the truck. I'll have to bring a magnet home tomorrow and see if it will move. If not I'll have to drop the v/b. If its not the tv valve, any other Ideas?
 
I'm not making "Assumptions", I'm telling you the truth, you maybe just don't want to read it, incorrectly wiring the TCC solinoid does not "Fail" a conveter, may stall your engine coming to a stop, but that's about it.
So there must be more to the story of "How/Why" your converter failed, work on that....

Kevin.
 
Its in a diesel. It didn't stall the engine it pushed the converter clutches over which creates an excessive amount of heat inside the converter. It was also an unknown/used converter when it was put in. The shifting issue is seperate from the converter problem I had. If the tc valve moves I'll drop the vb and check everything else out again. Maybe I missed something.
 
Sorry Eric, I didn't intend my comment to come off the way it may have.
If you disconnect the electrical plug from the left side of transmission, you should be able to drive around just fine as a 200-4R will not care if gas/diesel in reguards to lock up function info back to the ECM or it's apply during a disconnect.
If your Torque Converter Clutch is engaging once shifted into second but won't release without jerking your head loose coming to a stop, you might find the trouble inside the valve body shift train, early '80's 350 diesel powered cars/trucks had so many different hands in the pie at GM trying to deal with drivability issues between car makes using the diesel with: TH200C/200-4R/250C/325/325-4L/350C, ie: Buick,Cad, Olds, Pontiac cars in both front wheel/rear wheel drive models, with Chev/GMC trucks using TH350/375/400 rwd models.
Many techs found it easier to just hydraliacally lock the TCC once in 2nd gear and above, GM offered many different pressure switches for use in the 200 three speeds on the governor pressure tap(37-53 psi) as I recall being available/adaptable to the 200-R4/325/350/700's back in the day, not that I would have ever wasted my time trying to appease GM customer satisfaction/ warranty complaints. There might be a few at GM Powertrain that remember me, especially when it came to the 440T4/4T60 repairs in the late '80's early '90's.
I think my code name was K7535 back then, lol

Kevin.
 
Its alright. I appreciate you trying to help. I'm a little short tempered sometimes, especially when things aren't working in my favor. The governer valve was stuck. After getting that to move and driving it around the block I had first and third......so now I have a band issue.....dropped the pan again and when I swapped the pump I did it with the trans on its side and the drum/band must have moved. I can see the wear pattern on the drum vs. where the band is sitting is off by a good bit and after driving for a bit (maybe a half mile) there are metal particles in the fluid. So its got to come back apart. I should have just left the damn t400 in it....
 
Back
Top