(750$) 80-83 forged rebuilt 3.8 turbo longblock - pick it up in Tulsa, OK

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defrag010

New Member
Joined
May 5, 2006
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It's an even fire, block casting number is 25506818 and heads are 25506293. It's an 80-82 motor, built with low compression for turbo. It's got the V-drive belt system, but you can bolt on whatever accessory drive you're using.

I know I don't have any posts on here, but I need to get rid of this motor because I really have no use for it. I do not have the time (work 6 days a week) to go have it shipped, so it needs to be picked up from Tulsa, OK. Since it is a pick-up deal, there is no risk of someone getting scammed out of their money.

Specs:

-TRW L2481F 8:1 forged pistons
-2-dot evenfire rods
-Cam/lifters are Edelbrock kit #5487, 204/214@.050, and .448/.472 lift
-chromoly pushrods
-aftermarket valve springs/keys
-ARP headbolts
-Edelbrock timing chain and gears
-no intake or exhaust manifolds
-complete front cover assembly with water pump, oil pump, crank pulley, and mechanical fuel pump
-stock vacuum HEI distributor w/ coil and module
-high mount alternator and bracket
-starter
-flexplate
-2 good motor mounts

The motor has all of the paperwork with invoice and part numbers and everything that was bought for the motor, and was built at BlueChip Motor & Machine in OKC on 6/24/2000. The guy I got this motor from, said that the guy he bought it off of had bought the motor off of the original owner, except he let it set around for about 3 years. So that makes me the 4th owner. The original owner ran this motor in his '82 Regal naturally aspirated like it sits, and was in the low 14's in the 1/4 I was told.I have not seen this motor run, but the guy who I got it from assured me that it was in good running shape. I dropped the oil pan, and inspected the bearings and the bearings look Great. Turns over good. The casting area inside the lifter valley and crankcase are clean with not very much oil stain, and it looks like this motor has very few miles on it. The motor turns over good, and has good compression so that it will "whoosh" air out of each cylinder with the spark plug out when you turn it over by hand.


I'd like to get 750$ for this, or trade for the following:

-new/lightly used complete EFI wet nitrous kit that will support 150-200 shot + 100$ cash
-cheap old 2-wheel car tow dolley that works

My e-mail is defrag010@sbcglobal.net, and my phone number is 479-651-3874

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not sure, it doesn't say anything in the paperwork.

Is there a way I can visually see which one it is? I will drop the pan whenever I can find out the way to tell the difference between turbo and n/a visually.
 
Pull a cap off of one rod and if the journal has rolled fillets (looks like a indentation on ends of journal) then it is a turbo crank, if it doesnt then its just a NA crank, both cranks will have the rolled fillets on the mains. it was a way they-gm- compressed the ends of the journals hydronically (50,000 lbs psi) to make the cranks stronger.
 
I took a rod cap off, and it appears to be a rolled fillet TURBO crank. See for yourself.. The pic is kind of blurry, but you can definately see a radius on the fillets. The stuff on the rod journal is just residew from the rag that I used to wipe it off.


fillets5yx.jpg


And a shot of the bearings, with no wear on them at all

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That's a N/A crank. The rolled fillets would be little indentions all the way around the edges of the journals.
 
Thanks, but like I said there is a radius on the fillet that you can't see in the picture. I outlined the part of the fillett that is visible in part of the picture.
I will get better pictures to show the fillet.

fillets5yx2te.jpg
 
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