84 Regal T/Type Suspension Upgrades

Jonc82

New Member
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums so any help and suggestions would be great. I just picked up a 84 Regal T/Type and was looking for some suggestions on suspension upgrades. The car is a T Top and I just bought the rear seat braces from Kirbans and Bilstein b6 stocks for the front and rear. I'm not really looking to race, more like daily driving in the warm weather months. I've been looking at UMI for everything suspension just for ease of fitment. Also, I've been reading about the powermaster issues and I'm not sure if the 84's had the powermaster? The car has 104,000 miles and was well maintained, any other problems I should be aware off? Here's a few pics of my new baby.
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Welcome.
You’ve got a sharp looking car there.

You can’t go wrong with UMI stuff.
If you get their A-arms, you can just get their street version with urethane lower bushings and delrin upper bushings (all theirs have delrin uppers).

Spend the few extra $$ to get the 1” taller upper ball joints, it will handle more like a newer sports car. The standard lower ball joints are good for “street use”.
The other benefit of the UMI lower A-arms, as well as others is they provide more clearance for running larger tires (275’s in most cases) if that’s your thing.

To make the steering tighter, Kirbans Performance has an upgraded GM steering shaft he reworks from an Astro van that has two U-joints and does away with the rag joint. He sells a bearing to replace the bushing at the bottom of the column as well.



You have the hydroboost system that uses the power steering pump to supply the power assist.
 
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. It looks like the the previous owner must have done that conversion because the plate behind the master cylinder is a different color than the car. Just went through the trunk and found a box of old receipts and files on the car. Hopefully it will tell me everything I need to know about any mods he did. As for the UMI A-Arms, I was looking into this kit https://www.umiperformance.com/home...delrin-bushings-1-2-taller-upper-ball-joints/. Is this the one you were talking about?
Other things I was looking at are
Figured if I was going to be down there might as well do it right once.
 
I didn’t see the upper and lower A-arm kit w/ 1” taller upper ball joints.

The urethane bushings province a better ride for the street.

When you call them request 1” taller upper ball joints, they have a better camber curve than the 1/2” taller upper ball joints.

Here is the street version w/ urethane bushings in the lowers and delrin bushings in the uppers. These have 1/2” taller upper ball joints, but request 1” taller upper ball joints.


The bump steer kit is only needed when running taller LOWER ball joints for extreme handling, but isn’t needed when running standard LOWER ball joints.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t run taller LOWER ball joints. That’s up to you.
Getting the bump steer kit adjusted to whatever height lower ball joints you use is a lot of work for minimal gains on the street.
Turbo6inKY knows a lot more about this than I.

The prothane body bushing are reported to be in between the stock rubber bushings and the energy suspension poly urethane bushings as far as stiffness.


It's best to search for body bushings to see what’s best for you.

All the rest of the parts listed look good.
 
On a side note also start researching ttop weather stripping just to have an extra set for future. I lucked up and found an original GM set. You will need to address you driver’s side gap immediately. Nice car, welcome to the board and try to find a network of other owners near you. Where are you located ( I don’t think I saw anywhere)?
 
You cant go wrong with UMI parts, have quite a few of their parts on my car. One thing I disagree with GX1 is the bump steer issue. Taller lower ball joints help relieve bump steer and not increase it. You use a bump steer kit on stock ball joint equipped car and is normally not needed on the ones with taller ball joints.
 
You cant go wrong with UMI parts, have quite a few of their parts on my car. One thing I disagree with GX1 is the bump steer issue. Taller lower ball joints help relieve bump steer and not increase it. You use a bump steer kit on stock ball joint equipped car and is normally not needed on the ones with taller ball joints.

Thank you for the correction. I haven’t used the bump steer kit and was going off what I’ve read.
 
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums so any help and suggestions would be great. I just picked up a 84 Regal T/Type and was looking for some suggestions on suspension upgrades. The car is a T Top and I just bought the rear seat braces from Kirbans and Bilstein b6 stocks for the front and rear. I'm not really looking to race, more like daily driving in the warm weather months. I've been looking at UMI for everything suspension just for ease of fitment. Also, I've been reading about the powermaster issues and I'm not sure if the 84's had the powermaster? The car has 104,000 miles and was well maintained, any other problems I should be aware off? Here's a few pics of my new baby.
View attachment 350783View attachment 350784View attachment 350785View attachment 350786View attachment 350787View attachment 350788View attachment 350789

This my setup on my 87 GN.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
Proforged Upper and Lower tall ball joints 3/2019
Aldan American Front 450lb single adjustable coilovers 3/2019
Spohn BS-2 bumpsteer kit 7/2018
F41 suspension OE style Radiator to fender support braces ( Kirbans Performance)
Umi Performance 3032-B Upper control arms w/Delrin Bushings 3/2019
Umi Performance 3031-B lower control arms 3/2019
Umi Performance FRONT 1.25” Sway bar 3035-B 3/21/2019
UMI Performance 3 point Front Brace 3053-B 3/2019
REAR SUSPENSION:
Aldan American Rear adjustable Coilovers 140lb AGRMS 9/2019
Metco Motorsports adjustable upper and boxed lower rear control arms 4/2018
Umi Performance 1” rear sway bar 3034-B 4/15/2019
Umi Performance 3055-B TUBLAR Strut bar brace 4/24/2019
REAR END:
Stock 8.5 3:42 gears with
GBODY PARTS “Buick” differential cover with gasket & full service completed with mobil 1 fluid and additive 8/19


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On a side note also start researching ttop weather stripping just to have an extra set for future. I lucked up and found an original GM set. You will need to address you driver’s side gap immediately. Nice car, welcome to the board and try to find a network of other owners near you. Where are you located ( I don’t think I saw anywhere)?
Thanks for the heads-up. I figured I would replace the weatherstrips around the doors and ttops as they are ripped and torn. So far the ttops haven't leaked. Btw, I'm from New York in the Queens/ Long Island area.
 
You cant go wrong with UMI parts, have quite a few of their parts on my car. One thing I disagree with GX1 is the bump steer issue. Taller lower ball joints help relieve bump steer and not increase it. You use a bump steer kit on stock ball joint equipped car and is normally not needed on the ones with taller ball joints.
Ok, so if I go with the taller ball joint I don't need the bump steer kit? Waste of money?
 
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. It looks like the the previous owner must have done that conversion because the plate behind the master cylinder is a different color than the car. Just went through the trunk and found a box of old receipts and files on the car. Hopefully it will tell me everything I need to know about any mods he did. As for the UMI A-Arms, I was looking into this kit https://www.umiperformance.com/home...delrin-bushings-1-2-taller-upper-ball-joints/. Is this the one you were talking about?
Other things I was looking at are
Figured if I was going to be down there might as well do it right once.

Replace the body bushings first. Then decide if you need all those braces. You probably will decide to keep your money.
You do not need the bumpsteer kit unless you change to a taller lower ball joint. For a daily driver, you don't need to change it. You get 80-90% of the improvement with just the taller upper, and that doesn't mess with the steering.

Do not get a rubber or delrin bushed aftermarket upper arm. Get the race arms with the rod ends for the uppers. The delrin melts right out of the arm on our cars because of the downpipe.
 
Replace the body bushings first. Then decide if you need all those braces. You probably will decide to keep your money.
You do not need the bumpsteer kit unless you change to a taller lower ball joint. For a daily driver, you don't need to change it. You get 80-90% of the improvement with just the taller upper, and that doesn't mess with the steering.

Do not get a rubber or delrin bushed aftermarket upper arm. Get the race arms with the rod ends for the uppers. The delrin melts right out of the arm on our cars because of the downpipe.
Poly bushing should be ok then? As for body bushings, are they hard to replace and can I do it myself in the garage with a jack and some jack stands?
Thanks everyone for the info and suggestions. Looks like before I go ahead and spend all this money I should look into my options. I just thought sticking with one brand would just make everything easier but it looks like there are better options out there.
 
These are the upper A-arms with heim joints (rod ends/ spherical bearings) that have 1” taller ball joints.

The ‘84 downpipe may not heat the bushing like the ‘86-‘87’s do. I’m not sure.

 
These are the upper A-arms with heim joints (rod ends/ spherical bearings) that have 1” taller ball joints.

The ‘84 downpipe may not heat the bushing like the ‘86-‘87’s do. I’m not sure.

Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like i'll be going with those arms instead of the kit and not getting the bump steer kit. Also, you said my car had the hydroboost system. I see people are installing an extra reservoir, should I do the same or is whats in the master cylinder enough?
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like i'll be going with those arms instead of the kit and not getting the bump steer kit. Also, you said my car had the hydroboost system. I see people are installing an extra reservoir, should I do the same or is whats in the master cylinder enough?

My power master worked well. It just never stopped the car very fast so I changed to a vacuum system from an ‘86 Monte SS in ‘96 or so.

I’m not a good one to ask about the hydroboost.
 
Poly bushing should be ok then? As for body bushings, are they hard to replace and can I do it myself in the garage with a jack and some jack stands?
Thanks everyone for the info and suggestions. Looks like before I go ahead and spend all this money I should look into my options. I just thought sticking with one brand would just make everything easier but it looks like there are better options out there.

The only locations on these cars where Poly is OK is the front lower control arms and the body bushings. The front uppers need to be metal, and the rear control arms need rubber or the rear suspension won't work right.

Body bushings are easy if the car isn't rusty. If it is, well, make sure you have a body shop on retainer than can repair the caged nuts for you when the old body bolts snap while you're removing them.
 
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