'87 GN MAF sensor electronics.

[Tripled]

Seeing as my MAF is on it's way out and I'm not particularly thrilled at taking it up the chute for a remanufactured one, I was wondering if anyone is aware of where to get replacement electronics for it?

I've cleaned up the MAF a couple times with MAF cleaning, and reset the IAC and TPS and it was working fine for a bit. Yesterday i replaced the vacuum lines around the engine and it started setting code 34 again.

Large cash outlays are out at the moment, and I would also like to keep the original housing, so i figured i would try for some new electronics. Someone must be making them if there are new, non-original MAF units out there for the cars.

Thanks,

David

 

[BEATAV8]

your choices are a replacement / remanufactured stock MAF, or a MAF translator along with a 3" LT1 MAF, a 3.5" LS1 MAF, or an 85mm ZO6 / truck MAF.

www.fullthrottlespeed.com

 

[John Larkin]

Autozone has remans for $45 with a $10 core charge. If $45 is taking it in the chute, get ready to be boned regularly with these cars. Just make sure it reads up to 255 @ WOT on your Scanmaster. Keep exchanging them until you get a good one.

 

[Tripled]

That's just it, I can't play the return game with Autozone living in Toronto. But changing electronics i can do. Curious if anyone has actually opened a MAF unit also.

 

[Pronto]

Another choice is a TT SD1 chip with no MAF. Lots of used Translators for sale now that TT has come out with the SD2 chip...

 

[earlbrown]

I would recommend getting rid of the stock MAF and upgrading to a translator. It's a permanent fix that can follow you all the way through many many mods. Plus the newer MAF's are so much better than the ones that were available in the 80's.

 

[Tripled]

I'm trying to keep her as stock and original as possible. I still don't understand why it is so difficult to find the replacement electronics for it, especially since some companies are putting out new units.

I would still like to see if someone has actually cracked open one of these things. I would eventually break down and purchase a new unit and transfer the guts to my original if i could find some sort of diagram for it.

 

[Pronto]

You can't find a "new" unit since GM stopped making them years ago. The aftermarket ones an not calibrated right most of the time and the junk they use fails anyway. The whole design of the original was poor, right from the start. As years went by GM learned better ways to make a MAF and they are now much more accurate and reliable now. The only way to stay "stock" nowadays is to buy a NOS GM MAF on Ebay for over $300 or a used one. Here's one now http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Buick-Grand-National-TTA-MAF-Mass-Air-Flow-/151087650331 Good luck with "used" ones (probably replaced with a new style and Translator b/c it's flakey). There is no way to "replace the guts". It's silly to worry about "keeping it stock" unless you have a super low mileage museum piece. A small black box that can easily be hidden with no wire splices, a modern design MAF and your done.

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

you can keep the original in place, just take the guts out and put a SD2 chip in and let the chip do all the work and your problem will be over and it will still look stock .

 

[Pronto]

But then the ECM won't be stock b/c you need a Powerlogger with the SD2...

 

[Tripled]

Another question, does anyone know anyway of testing the output (frequency) using a volt meter? Using Turbolink 4 to record with on my trusty Toshiba Pentium laptop, MAF values increase and decrease with accelerator usage, and yet, i still get 'burping' while I drive. I have also set the ICS and TPS.

Note: This horse is not dead yet. ;-)

 

[Pronto]

MAF signal is having drop outs b/c its nfg. Geez, I guess you can bring a horse to water but you can't make it drink.