A/C clutch won't engage

[Whtlightning]

I turned on the A/C the other day and my guages went dead, the check engine light came on and I caught the unpleasant scent of burned electrical components. Using a paperclip diagnostic I'm gettin a code 32, EGR. The car has a powerplate and head work and the EGR has always been blocked off, but the check engine light has never came on. I replaced all fuses, including the blown guage fuse, and I disconnected the positive battery terminal, but I can't get rid of the check engine light. My real problem however is my A/C clutch will not engage. I've jumped the connectors on the accumulator and the high presure cutoff switch with the engine on and the setting on MAX cold, but the clutch still won't engage. I noticed I don't have a diode on the compressor clutch connector. Since my diode is MIA, has the ECM been damaged? If you haven't guessed, electronics is not my forte? I spoke with some GN guys, but apparently their wiring is different. For instance they have an ECM/SOL fuse and all I have is a ECM/IGN fuse. Any ideas? It's getting quite warm here in Houston.

 

[Whtlightning]

Did some additional testing but still flying blind.

With the engine on and the setting on max or normal A/C I don't get a voltage reading from either the A/C compressor clutch or the high pressure cutoff switch when I ground out either of the two female terminals on each connector. I do get battery voltage from one of the terminals in what I believe is the A/C control relay (it's located behind the washer fluid reservior on the driver's side, right?). Anyway, my next thought was to jump the male terminals on the actual compressor clutch straight to the positive battery terminal. The compressor clutch didn't engage using this method either.

 

[jasons kwik 6]

I doubt this is it, but is the gas charge in it low maybe? It has a low pressure switch that will cut it off. Maybe its bad

 

[Whtlightning]

Thanks for the input. I don't think the charge is low. It was blowing nice cold air before my little incident. I know at least there is a healthy charge currently in the line. I pressed on the stem valve and a shot of charged air almost took my left ear off. I tested the low pressure switch on the side of the accumulator and it has battery voltage from one the terminals on the connector. I also have battery voltage from two terminals on the A/C compressor control relay. I just don't have voltage at either the A/C high pressure cut off connector or the compressor clutch connector.

Anyone else?

 

[Whtlightning]

After additional testing I discovered I have two problems. Damaged ECM and damaged clutch coil within my compressor clutch. I replaced the ECM and my check engine light is now finally off. Apparently the A/C pin within the ECM was damaged. The bigger problem is the damaged A/C clutch coil. Can I replace the clutch without losing my R12 charge? The local A/C shop told me to replace the entire compressor, but I know this requires recharging the entire system and R12 isn't cheap.

 

[turbota]

The clutch comes off the front of the compressor.
If your shop can't remove it on the car, find another shop, or. I will sell you 36oz of freon for 120$ your choice. TURBOTA.

 

[0to60n4.5]

The clutch should be fine, but not so for the coil behind it. A special tool makes removing clutch easier. They are for sale on e-bay, along with a whole used compressor for the coil and clutch if you damage it. ( I bought a whole unit just for a pulley once , and mine only needed a new bearing, but this was still cheaper.)After the clutch is pulled the pulley is held on with a large snap ring. Pull the pulley off and the round coil assembly should slip off next. Good luck Dude, Pat

 

[Whtlightning]

Finally got my A/C fixed. The high side pressure switch in the back of the compressor was damaged from the shock and wasn't grounding. Apparently running battery voltage directly to the clutch connector for a test doesn't work if the high pressure switch isn't grounded. Anyway, to replace the high pressure switch you have to go in through the back of the compressor and disconnect your lines which for me meant losing my R12 charge. I decided this was a good time to convert to R134. I ended up having a local shop do the work including new orfice, o-rings, high pressure switch, clutch switch w/ built in diode (for ECM protection), R134 charge, etc for very resonable. FYI, "0-60n4.5" is right I discovered during my search you can't find a clutch coil only for a turbo V6, you have to buy an entire unit just for the coil. I feel lucky I didn't have to replace the coil.

I realize this wasn't an exciting topic and I really appreciate those who took the time to post replies. Thanks.