A recepie for knock?

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx, I just did get back taking the car on a trial run as it is now, I noticed sometimes I could be going 45-55 and get it to 10 psi and maybe have .02-.07 KR on the Scanmaster and the 1st or 2nd green light on the knock gauge would come on....

A time or two the 1st green would come on but the Scanmaster didn't pick up anything....the 1st time 6 PSI and the 2nd time 10 PSI...

My worst was at 10 PSI I got 2.1 KR and the 1st yellow came on....

My best was an 11/12 with .02 KR and the 1st green....

All runs were taken after dumping in a bottle of Lucas fuel cleaner and the trans was in 3rd gear, car was moving 45-65 mph....

Now I'm waiting on the delivery truck to get my fuel PSI gauge so I can see what's happening....figure maybe I oughta go for a 2nd trial run and see what the fuel PSI is....?

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Could be false knock...what are your scanmaster readings? Do the O2s go really lean when you roll into it and get the knock?

 

["Turbo-T"]

You know, I did not even think to check them. :redface:

Mainly what I did was keep an eye on the boost gauge and knock gauge which I have both in the a pillar so I see them out of my peripheral vision.

The second I see a knock light come on I immediately look over at the Scanmaster (it sits atop the pod where the radio/heater/ac controls are) at the KR section to see what it says.

If it goes lean does this mean the 3 digit 02 sensor numbers will go down?

I could take it out for a 2nd trial run and check.

 

[cuda6pak]

You know, I did not even think to check them. :redface:

Mainly what I did was keep an eye on the boost gauge and knock gauge which I have both in the a pillar so I see them out of my peripheral vision.

The second I see a knock light come on I immediately look over at the Scanmaster (it sits atop the pod where the radio/heater/ac controls are) at the KR section to see what it says.

If it goes lean does this mean the 3 digit 02 sensor numbers will go down?

I could take it out for a 2nd trial run and check.

Yes, the 02 mV number will get lower as it gets leaner, and vice versa higher as it gets richer

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks, will look into this. In the mean time, the UPS man brought me some parts to install.....

 

[spoolinturbo6]

knock

another item that you want to check is alcohol injection a progressive kit so you can run pump gas turn up the boost and you can dial it in so you dont have any knock

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Get a gauge so that AFPR is usuable!

 

["Turbo-T"]

another item that you want to check is alcohol injection a progressive kit so you can run pump gas turn up the boost and you can dial it in so you dont have any knock

Thanks, I do plan on that later on down the road, but don't I need to address the issue of "am I getrting enough fuel" first?

Get a gauge so that AFPR is usuable!

Pardon my ignorance but what is AFPR? Air flow pressure? Air, fuel and pressure...? What's the gauge look like?

Thanks.

 

[jcawley3]

Thanks, I do plan on that later on down the road, but don't I need to address the issue of "am I getrting enough fuel" first?



Pardon my ignorance but what is AFPR? Air flow pressure? Air, fuel and pressure...? What's the gauge look like?

Thanks.

he's talking about your fuel pressure regulator.....you need a gauge to attach to the fuel rail...so you can see what psi you have

 

[Grimster]

Pardon my ignorance but what is AFPR?

Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

It won't do much good to adjust the fuel pressure if you ain't got a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to see what happens when you adjust the fuel pressure

I have an AFPR but ain't hooked it up yet, mostly cause I ain't got a gauge yet either!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Oh, ok, yeah I actually ordered a fuel rail adapter and a fuel pressure gauge from Caspers a few days ago.

I figured tomorrow when my parts get in what I'll do is attach the fuel pressure gauge and see how much PSI I currently have with the non adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I might even unplug the hot wire kit and re plug in the old connectors just to see if the PSI drops any w/o the hot wire kit, and how much.

(Yes I did install my hot wire kit tonight, I've yet to test drive the car, but the fuel pump did sound a little different due to it now feeding thru a larger gauge wire)

Then I was going to swap out the stock fuel pressure regulator with the new Accufab adjustable one I posted in the above pic, set the fuel pressure and then pop in my new Turbo Tweak chip, since it did mention I needed to "make sure the fuel pressure was set at 42 PSI..."

One question though, the instructions on the Accufab said to "lube the o-ring"....what is the best method of doing this?

Thanks!

 

[Black Power]

I never lube an o-ring with oil because I am afraid that oil on a rubber o-ring will swell it up or make it rot...I don't have any scientific proof, but I just don't like it. I always used a tiny bit of no-grit water based hand cleaner (like Joe's hand cleaner) to make the o-rings slide easy (for injectors, never tried it on the regulator).

 

[Grimster]

I spit on mine, but I was in the liquor store parking lot swapping out the o-ring because the first one I cinched up and had gas spraying over my motor like some sort of extremely scary sprinkler system once the car warmed up and the rubber got more malleable. So spit, petroleum jelly, a little oil, a little gas, whatever works I guess

 

[SouthernCal GN]

vaseline.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Well I finally received my fuel PSI gauge and adapter from Caspers.

With the hot wire kit and the stock regulator, as soon as the key is placed in the "run" position I get 40 PSI.

Start the engine and it drops to 38 PSI.

So I guess now we know for a fact there's an obvious pressure issue, at least at idle.

 

[Grimster]

Put on the AFPR and see if you can adjust it properly, but if you're doing many upgrades you will probably want to swap the pump out nearly first thing.

 

[jcawley3]

Well I finally received my fuel PSI gauge and adapter from Caspers.

With the hot wire kit and the stock regulator, as soon as the key is placed in the "run" position I get 40 PSI.

Start the engine and it drops to 38 PSI.

So I guess now we know for a fact there's an obvious pressure issue, at least at idle.

Vac line on or off?

 

["Turbo-T"]

That was with the line on....

I just did make another post on this but I found out the regulator I had (which I thought was stock) has an adjustable screw in the vacuum port...I pulled off the hose and it was pushing 42 PSI w/o the line on. I was able to bump it to 45 w/o the line on and it drops to 40 with the line on.

Here's the other post, with pics:http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...teresting-find-keep-not-keep.html#post1788843

 

[Drip Pan]

Usually a good default setting is 43 psi with the line off. You can check the fuel pressure without taking the vacuum line off by taking a jumper wire and applying +12V from the back of the alternator to the gray fuel pump test lead which is located in the hearness down by the A/C compressor; this will engage the pump without the key in the ignition and is the same thing as having the car running with the vacuum line off. It is also how you can kick on the fuel pump to drain the fuel system.

Fuel stuff first!! New Pump, hotwire, new fuel filter, you already have the old-style "stealth" AFPR (adj FP reg) and 36 lb injectors installed. Once you've accomplished the preceding, from a fuel supply standpoint you'll be set for low 12s/high 11s. FYI, 36# Blue Tops are typically maxed out at "around" 114-ish MPH, otherwise you have to run really high static fuel pressure.

Also-- I would recommend you pick up a set of AC Delco R43TS spark plugs, gap them at 0.035" and keep them handy for your next spark plug change; these plugs are one range colder than stock.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I took the car for a trial run today.

With the vacuum/boost line off I set the PSI for 44.

I attached the fuel pressure gauge in and with the line off the PSI was 36-38. If I gave the car a light amount of acceleration it would go up to 40 PSI.

From 5-10 PSI the gauge showed an increase of 1 PSI per lb of boost. I had a difficult time in telling when it got upwards of 14 lbs if the gauge was reading but it looked like 53-54 PSI.

I also checked out the Scanmaster. I noticed a time or two when I'd go to accelerate from a dead stop the numbers would drop off really low then quickly shoot back up in the upper 700's/800 mv area. Otherwise they seemed to get into the 800's on acceleration.

Going up a hill with moderate acceleration I got a KR reading of 2.1-2.6 and the Caspers gauge got into the yellow. I also tried accelerating on a flat area of road, and I got anywhere from .07 KR to 1.2.