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AC compressor connector

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ChrisCairns

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
2,197
Hopefully someone has come across this problem before.

I put a brand spanking new AC compressor on the new engine before I put it back into the car. I connected the flat dual prong connector to the underside front. Slipped on fine. I then attempted to connect the round connector with 2 holes for prongs inside and a slot in the top to it's proper location on the back of the compressor. It won't go on. I've looked at it with a mirror and it seems as if the prongs are in the wrong spots. (BTW, I can't remember if the prongs are on the compressor's connector or are in the wiring connector so don't take that part of the description as gospel.) And I can't turn it because the slot in the connector must match the riser in the compressor connection.

Anyway, anyone come across the prongs in the wrong place problem. I got the compressor from GMPartsDirect so I assume it's GM.

Thanks.
 
I took my connector off the old unit and put it on the new compressor.
The new unit just had a plug held on by the snap ring everything fit fine and works.
 
Kinda the reply I was hoping for....as in reasonable to fix.

I'll get out my handy dandy mirror again and see if I can spot the snap ring of which you speak, if not I'll have to remove the compressor. Which is a bitch since I put a chrome shield around it...lol.

So once you pulled the old connector out did the new one just snap back into place? And what about the wires from the connector to wherever they go inside the compressor? Did you do any soldering?

Thanks again.
 
I don't remember the exact cost...seems like it was around $175 or so. But I could be off. I got it from GMPartsDirect I think. (I bought it about a year ago and it's been sitting on the shelf since then until now.)
 
I just checked on GMPartsDirect.....it says $210 plus $46 freight. I don't remember paying that much but ya never know.
 
Came out very easy, after removing the snap ring
There are no wires
I got my compressor etc from savanna air
 
conn84gn said:
Came out very easy, after removing the snap ring
There are no wires
I got my compressor etc from savanna air

Interesting, no wires inside. I wonder if it's just a pressure switch?

Well thanks for the info....I'll see if I can get at the snap ring today.
 
Chris, it's just a pressure switch so no wires inside. Hopefully you haven't charged the system with freon yet.
 
ijames said:
Chris, it's just a pressure switch so no wires inside. Hopefully you haven't charged the system with freon yet.

Thanks Carl. What would happen if I didn't connect it?? I assume it's the front wires that carry the current to the clutch so do I need the back one connected? And no, it's not charged yet, thankfully.

This morning I woke up with a terrible summer cold. So I'm just resting up today and won't be able to get to it until this weekend.

I did have another brain storm though.....why can't I just "widen" the locating slot and see if I can turn it enough to make it go on. Especially now you've confirmed it's a pressure switch....either connector prong should work either way. Right?
 
Near as I can make out from page 8-64 in the service manual this switch is in series with the clutch and is normally closed, opening above 430 psi to protect against excessively high pressure, reclosing once back below 200 psi. So if you don't connect it, put a jumper wire into the connector so the clutch will engage. It's been awhile since I had mine apart so I can't guess how successful you would be trying to force it on upside down, but it doesn't sound, um, reliable :-). Also, beware of the diode in the connector to the clutch, those bare wires can short pretty easily.
 
Connector? Did someone say connector??

Take a look at:

https://www.casperselectronics.com/...creen=PROD&Product_Code=108041&Category_Code=

The circular switch is the high pressure switch, which (as I recall) opens when the head pressure gets excessive. The clutch connector, the flat unsealed black connector, is only to energize the clutch. There's also another switch at the accumulator, where it shuts the system down under low pressure. Then there's the gray switch on the drivers side above the exhaust header that runs the high and low relays.

John
 
What a great education....thanks guys.

You made me feel guilty sitting there feeling like I was dying so I went out to the shop and started messing with it. Couldn't get the snap ring plyers into the area. Put the mirror back down with a powerful flashlight and noticed one of the prongs was ever so slightly bent. Straightened it out as best I could and the connector slipped right on.

Thanks again.

Oh and I feel better this evening too. Must be the damnIgottafixitcillin. :)
 
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