AC orifice tube question

[TireFryer]

I'm going to be doing a lot of work to my car this winter. One thing i want to fix is the ac. It works if the car is moving but never really gets that cold - even with the fan on high. The system doesnt leak, ive vacuum tested it. Someone said I should get a different orifice tube, as that will make the ac work better (Like a hot climate version or something?) but i cant find the thread where he told me what to get.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

A multi pass condenser is also a good upgrade.

 

[N2BUICK]

Is the car converted to, R 134A ?

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Check to see if the temp lever is operating the door. Drop the glove box and check movement. My lever where cable attaches was broken.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Check to see if the temp lever is operating the door. Drop the glove box and check movement. My lever where cable attaches was broken.

Mine was too. Macgyvered one to fit.

 

[John Larkin]

When I did mine, I specked a 1985 Ford F150 red orifice tube. That was the recommended one at the time as the holes are a smidge larger.

 

[william B.]

when you switch from r12a to 134a you lose 15% efficiency,by installing a parallel flow ac condencer you get that 15% back, the oriphice tube is a compromise stock one good all around cooling, if in a hot southern climate where you sit in traffic alot go with the red one,from a 1980 ford f-150 with a 302,last piece of puzzle is the compressor cycleing switch,r12a switch is set to cycle around 28psi,need to get one for r134a that cycles around 24psi,temp is relative to pressure,low suction pressure = low evaporator temp, important note get a compressor with 2-3yr warrenty, I bought my cond coil.cycleing switch and oriphice tube at oriellys and compressor at napa, I have been running this set up for over 10yrs in hot Arkansas summers,

 

[Ttype6]

I'm going to be doing a lot of work to my car this winter. One thing i want to fix is the ac. It works if the car is moving but never really gets that cold - even with the fan on high. The system doesnt leak, ive vacuum tested it. Someone said I should get a different orifice tube, as that will make the ac work better (Like a hot climate version or something?) but i cant find the thread where he told me what to get.

You'll need gauges to know what your next move should be. It could have too much refrigerant in it.

 

[TIMINATOR]

If the heater control valve has a leak internally it let's hot water in the heater core and that diminishes the A/C cooling. Also most 86/7 G bodies had a plastic blower fan, and with its thicker blades the airflow is less. Autozone and O'Reilly both carry the older metal fans. They run about eighteen bucks.
Check the blend doors for full opening and closing too.
Here in Phoenix,AZ, we run a #12 "hotwire" from the battery and a relay that is switched by the max speed fan power wire to provide a shorter power run to the blower motor too. It's just like "hotwiring" the fuel pump. This is standard stuff for us that live in 112-115 summer temps. But just so you know, I am posting this on Christmas eve, it was 78°here today.....
TIMINATOR