adjustment of valves

[Turbo85]

How are the valves adjusted on the Turbo V6? I want to do a cam and I know after the install (hydrolic cam) that the valves have to be adjusted. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[turbo nasty]

If you are retaining the stock rockers and pushrods then there is no adjustment.
It is best however to assure that the valve tip geometry is correct when using aftermarket grinds/lifters/etc.
i.e. the pushrods may need to be longer or shorter the get the proper valve tip geo.

Typically an adj pushrod length tool is used for this.
But syou should be ok with a mild cam and stock GM lifters. Best to always check tho

 

[Turbo85]

valve agj

Thanks for the reply. Yes I am going to put a stock cam back in and new GM lifters. I will retain the GM push rods. After I take the rockers loose and remove the push rods, I re-assemble and just tighten the rockers back on the push rods and call that good? Thanks.

 

[just plain john]

Reinstall the rocker shafts, tightening each just a couple of turns at a time until they make contact with the head, then tighten to the torque spec (35 pounds?). I prefer to torque twice, the first time at a lower setting, then the final. While you are at it, get some Comp 980's and some Viton valve stem seals. It's possible to change them with the heads still on the car. Put plenty of assembly lube on both cam and lifters, and if you can spin the oil pump with a drill and prelube the engine. I hear that cam break in procedures (or more accurately the lack of proper procedure) will wipe your new cam lobes if it's not right. I'm sure many members know more about it than I do though.

 

[just plain john]

x

 

[Turbo85]

valve adj

Thanks all for the help.

 

[77amc]

I was just searching instead of starting another NEW thread and would like to ask..
What is the prefered depth 'into' the lifter?
I've been used to the older Chevys and Hondas where one just takes it 1/2 turn after getting resistance or screwing the lash adjuster 'in' until you get the correct feeler guage 'feel'.

JD's been giving me ideas on what to look for and kinda shocked me that as little as .012-.020 off can cause clacking!

OK, so you get your rocker shafts torqued down correctly, and now you have to get a light in there to see if the center of the valve stays in a short distance of travel throughout the WHOLE rotation on EACH valve stem tip.. RIGHT?

Now depending on how much material was removed from the seats will transfer to the lash and or pre-load in the lifter pump and throw it off.
As in, you need to ADD length to the pushrod accordingly..

BUT.. What is the 'standard' (if any) for the N/A V6?
Standard V6 pushrod length?
Standard V6 rocker shaft dia.?
Standard V6 preload (safely) into the pump of the lifter?
Are 'turbo' lifters any different to gain lubrication qualities?

In the turbo'd Mitsubishis, they actually made the little lifters with larger orifaces(?) to get more lube to the rocker contact points.
In addition, when i used to work on the older Honda heads, if the shafts were worn it didn't matter how much you went back and adjusted the rockers, if the shaft was worn it gave too much tollerence to the body of the rocker going thru it and THATS where it would make noise. NOT the end of the valve.

SO, with that said, could one change the geometry by having a larger dia shaft and reaming out the rockers?

Thanks Errol

 

[77amc]

Yeah, I know it's old but what i forgot is to put this in B4black..
Sorry.
If you want to answer, go ahead though.

E