Alky Light Shuts Off After 10lbs

[marred4life]

alky light shuts off after 10lbs, does this mean that the alky stoped spraying, is this normal, the light im talking about is the one that lets you know when its spraying

 

[Razor]

Is this a newer upgrade or kit. If so your probably using the wrong type of LED. The bicolored LED switches color when the correct conditions are met. So either its not installed or wrong one installed.

If you look at your power injection "BULB" it will confirm if power is being sent to the pump. If power is being sent.. kit is working and you have an LED issue.

Call me and i'll walk you through it.

TIA

 

[marred4life]

i have your newest version i just bought it last month, i know its the right led light because it was working fine, the reason i know thats its not spraying is because i recieve 8.8 knocks at 25lbs boost, it was working fine this whole time till i was coming home from the track when i noticed that the light would turn off after about 15- 18 bounds of boost then my knocks would be around 6.0-8.8, everything is hooked up right, im just trying to see if anyone has had this problem. other than this small issue i really love the kit, i could never amagine that a lil nozzle would replace a whole tank of c16 meth. by the way thats what im spraying METH

 

[Razor]

System is controlled by the 3 bar MAP sensor readings. If your 3 bar loses power, loses pressure signal on its nipple.. the kit cannot work. I've seen MAP plugs that have had grease/dirt/grit... Cars are 20 years old.. Your OEM boost guage if it was working will start to light at 7 PSI boost pressure and climb as the needle on your autometer guage climbs.

Is the turnon LED going from red to green then shut off?

Is the power injection lamp also shutting off? Then the system is being told to shut off due to loss of power or input signal.

Is the LED on the PAC controller shutting off as well? If so.. your losing power to the system. Bad connections at fuse box can do this. As well as a bad ground. You can try mving the spade terminal to another open IGN slot.. there are 3 on a Buick. IGN1, IGN2, IGN3. Make sure there is nothing on the terminal like glue, debris, etc. it has to be bare and solid connection.

One other way to test the system is take the hose off the nozzle and put it into an open container. Use a Mity Vac, air compressor, or bicycle pump and make pressure on the 3 bar MAP nipple. You should see the system come on and become more aggressive as the pressure on the nipple of the 3 bar increases.

A full pressure test can be performed by simply disconnecting the 3 bar plug and jumping the terminals Gray to Green inside the plug using a bare wire. This simulates 30 PSI.

All else.. make a little time and call me. Fixing cars over keyboards.. well ya know

 

[marred4life]

well i found the problem, the connectors to the map sensor were lil dirty so i cleaned them up and now its working fine, i checked the voltage to the map sensor and its .5v so that was ok, i did a vacume pressure test with the boost gage connected and it would shut off right after 20lbs after each test. just have to keep tuning it now

 

[Razor]

well i found the problem, the connectors to the map sensor were lil dirty so i cleaned them up and now its working fine, i checked the voltage to the map sensor and its .5v so that was ok, i did a vacume pressure test with the boost gage connected and it would shut off right after 20lbs after each test. just have to keep tuning it now

Your 3 bar will have 5 volts not .5volts on the gray, 1.6 on green, and ZERO=ground on the black.

If your connector is suspect.. it must be replaced. This is one area of the car you cannot play with. I cannot emphasize how important it is for the MAP sensor to operate correctly. You will hurt your engine if everything is not 100%.

There is a sheet included with the kit that describes pin locations on the MAP. Please refer to it.

If things are worth doing.. they are worth doing right.

 

[marred4life]

Your 3 bar will have 5 volts not .5volts on the gray, 1.6 on green, and ZERO=ground on the black.

If your connector is suspect.. it must be replaced. This is one area of the car you cannot play with. I cannot emphasize how important it is for the MAP sensor to operate correctly. You will hurt your engine if everything is not 100%.

There is a sheet included with the kit that describes pin locations on the MAP. Please refer to it.

If things are worth doing.. they are worth doing right.

exactly what my readings were, the connectors were just dirty, signal and volts are correct, thanks for the help RAZOR RAMON

 

[Razor]

exactly what my readings were, the connectors were just dirty, signal and volts are correct, thanks for the help RAZOR RAMON

You posted it was still shuuting off after 20 PSI.. is this still happening.. if so we need to get that sorted.. else.. no probs..

If you need a new MAP plug.. I can supply you with one as well.

J.

 

[marred4life]

no the dirty connection to the map to care of that, now it shots out all the time under and above 20lbs, kit is working up to specs

 

[marred4life]

its starting to do it again, now im pretty sure its the map, it wont even spray after 10lbs.

 

[Razor]

its starting to do it again, now im pretty sure its the map, it wont even spray after 10lbs.

Could be.. more than likely its the connector. Could also be the 5volt line that feeds it coming from the dash.

Put your voltmeter on it. It will tell you the issue.

5 on gray, 1.6 on green, zero on black. Ignition ON car not running.

Dont move wires around.. dont move anything.. and measure voltages.

 

[marred4life]

im getting .5volts at the grey wire
nothing at the black wire
1.6 to the green wire signal

 

[Razor]

im getting .5volts at the grey wire
nothing at the black wire
1.6 to the green wire signal

Back to square one. I think you need to make some time during the week and call me. Fixing issue on cars that are far away is tough. Doing so on a public forum is harder especially on a keyboard.

Your gray wire has 5 volts not .5. If it had .5 you wouldnt have 1.6 on the green.

So next is you need to apply pressure to the nipple on the 3 bar... and see if the voltage rises on the green wire from 1.6 to 4.8 volts dc. You can use an air compressor, bicycle pump, mity vac, etc. Leave the knob on the alky kit "off" so it doesnt flood your intercooler.

If it does, I bet your hose/tube/TB/??? is losing pressure. That plastic hose that goes from the back of the plenum to the 3 bar can split/break/fracture..its only 20 years old.

No boost on 3 bar nipple.. no way to tell my system to increase drive.

Also.. think its about time you replaced that MAP connector.

Looking forward to your call next week.

 

[marred4life]

will do thanks