alkycontrol issues

[Beast_TR]

Hey I recently did some work on the car and now my alky kit has a mind of its own it will just turn on at random times. I can see the led flashing red and green and the motor bogs down at idle so I know alky is being injected and not when I want it to be I just had to turn the kit off until I get it figured out.

Anyway this weekend I installed a 6262sp turbo, pte turbo saver remote filter kit, and a powerlogger. Now with the powerlogger I also tapped into the green map sensor wire behind the glove box to get a boost signal to the logger. I did not have access the a soldering iron so I just put a butt connector to splice the wires together. I am guessing doing this is what is causing the problem since the kit has worked perfectly ever since I have installed it. Would having the butt connector in there be causing too much resistence? Has anyone had this issue before?

 

[Razor]

Only two things can activate the kit.

1 Test button
2 MAP signal. maybe your adding voltage to the wire, maybe your ground to the MAP is dirty, etc. Undo what you did.. and see if problem goes away.

Else read the sticky above on 3 bar wiring with digital dash.

 

[Razor]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/alcohol-nitrous-propane-tech/211821-3-bar-map-digital-dash.html

 

[Beast_TR]

Yeah I am not sure what to make of this, I have an analog guage in the car so I don't know if that makes a difference. Going down the road I could watch the LED flicker on and off, from red to green, at one point it just stayed green and nearly stalled the car so I just turned off the kit at that point (THANK YOU for putting an off switch on the remote controller btw). It was wierd though because the first 15-20 minutes of the ride things worked pretty good and no issues. I do remember that hitting the bumps in the road seemed to cause the LED to flicker so I am wondering if a ground is loose, but the only grounds that we touched were the main ground going to the turbo heat shield bracket on the head/block, and the battery ground and both of those are tight and I am sure if they were loose I would have more electrical problems with the car and that is not the case. The only other thing we changed is tapping into the green wire behind the dash. I am going to get some solder and remove the butt connector that is on there and see what happens. Or would I be better off just tapping into the the green wire near the map like I did when installed the kit?

 

[pacecarta]

what is your battery voltage ?

 

[Beast_TR]

Car running I was seeing between 13.5-14v, car off I saw 11.8v. I did not notice the lights dimming or anything like that while driving.

 

[Razor]

I can get into a long technical descript.. but here is the condensed..

Your MAP sensor needs ground. On its 3 pin plug that plugs into it cut the black wire a few inches away from the plug and attach a wire using a proper connector or solder. The other end of the wire attach to ground. There is a really good ground by the battery on the fender.

So to recap.. run a ground wire to the black wire on the map sensor and report back.

 

[Razor]

One last thing.. you have to remember the car is now 25 years old.. wires are 25 years old.. so wiring issues on an older car.. it is what it is. Multiple owners.. multiple hands prodding through the wiring.. things have been plugged and unplugged multiple times.. you've added a bunch of aftermarket non-oem parts.. hope you see the picture. Its amazing it even runs at all

This is not a 2011 Camaro you just drove out of the dealership last week.

 

[Beast_TR]

One last thing.. you have to remember the car is now 25 years old.. wires are 25 years old.. so wiring issues on an older car.. it is what it is. Multiple owners.. multiple hands prodding through the wiring.. things have been plugged and unplugged multiple times.. you've added a bunch of aftermarket non-oem parts.. hope you see the picture. Its amazing it even runs at all

This is not a 2011 Camaro you just drove out of the dealership last week.

I can see your point, I guess I just did not think adding one wire that a lot of people have added would cause the whole thing to go hay wire. I will add the ground and see what happens but mother nature was nice enough to dump some snow on us so it may be a few days. But I will go through all the grounds that we messed with and double check them, as well as add the ground for the MAP

 

[Beast_TR]

Well Razor, you were right the MAP needs ground.....actually the whole car needs ground ha ha! Here is what happend. Somehow the negative terminal on the battery became loose and when I hit a good enough bump it caused the alky system to start sapzzing out. How nothing else on the car was affected I have no clue, but after fixing the negative connection everything works flawless now. Took the car out for a few "test" runs and she runs stronger than ever! 24 psi and solid 772ish o2's with zero knock! Some more fine tuning and I should be ready for a fun track season!

 

[Razor]

Well Razor, you were right the MAP needs ground.....actually the whole car needs ground ha ha! Here is what happend. Somehow the negative terminal on the battery became loose and when I hit a good enough bump it caused the alky system to start sapzzing out. How nothing else on the car was affected I have no clue, but after fixing the negative connection everything works flawless now. Took the car out for a few "test" runs and she runs stronger than ever! 24 psi and solid 772ish o2's with zero knock! Some more fine tuning and I should be ready for a fun track season!

Ground..

My son-in-law bought a 2001 Kia.. it had a random high idle condition.. the shop said it was a bad IAC.. 150 bucks.. they worked on it.. problem came back again.

Problem was a loose negative on battery. Took terminal off.. cleaned it.. tightened it.. problem went away.

See the battery on a car acts like a filter capacitor taking away noise from the alternator and ignition system. If the ground or B+ is loose/dirty/making poor contact.. you will chase your tail finding the gremlin.

Always start on the easy stuff first.

Glad you found your gremiln

 

[Beast_TR]

I will say this, the lights on the car are brighter, the red-green led is now very bright, and the car just runs better overall from start up and idle to WOT. I am sure this has been a problem for a while but I never noticed it, I am guessing the bolt holding the -neg terminal was stripped for a while because the threads were chewed up pretty good, though it got tight so I am scratching my head on this. Glad nothing catastrophic happend and everything is working fine now!

 

[Evans Ward]

Glad you got it sorted. I myself, have to try and adhere to the K.I.S.S. principle. Electrical gremlins can be a bear......

 

[Beast_TR]

Well now I am scratching my head again, after a long hour and a half test drive the other day to get some more tuning done things worked fine with no issues. On the way home all of a sudden the car started to stumble and fall flat with any kinda throttle, look at the LED and it is flickering again, get home and the negative terminal is slightly loose but not like it was before. So I tighten it up again really tight this time turn the key to on-engine off and the LED is on. Turn the switch to off start the car and turn the switch back on and nothing. Now here is where it gets wierd, in nuetral I rev the car a little so that my boost guage reads 0, just quick short stabs of the throttle. When I did this the light would come one then go off. So I turn the engine off then back to key on and the light is back on again. I am wondering if the MAP is starting to go bad, but before I condemn it I want to run a direct ground from the black wire and see what happens. My question is should I "T" into black wire or just cut it and run it from there? Would cutting it cause issues since the ground is tied in with the ECM?

 

[Razor]

Look.. its like this. To test a MAP sensor you need a digital voltmeter. Period. There is no other way to do it.

If you dont own a meter. Buy one or you'll be throwing money at the car and not fix a problem. Home Depot, Lowes, Radio Shack, Harbor Freight, Sears, etc.. Sell voltmeters.

Once you get your voltmeter.. check voltage at green wire Ignition ON engine not running.. AND the MAP sensor plugged in.

You should read 1.6 volts on Green wire. Zero on black wire. 5v on gray wire.

post back what you find. Please stop guessing it.

 

[Otto J]

What are the settings at inside the control box?
Are you positive you have a 3 bar map and not a 2 bar map?

 

[Timbuick]

I also had this issue last year. Razor directed me to the earth for the MAP. Despite the earth wire being connected to the fender, the screw had worked marginally loose. I tightened it and used a good sprung washer and the problem stopped.



ps
The wiring is key. My 'problem' re-emerged and I traced it to the glove box! when closed it was pressing on the wiring to the alky control kit. Drop open the door and it works fine! Everything has to be correctly insulated, connected etc

 

[Beast_TR]

I am positive it is a 3bar I got the MAP with the kit and when I first installed everything I measured it at 1.6v like the directions said and the kit has performed flawlessly for over 2 years now.

I went out and dug my multimeter out of storage this weekend (recently moved everything is still packed away ) and here is what I have found with KOEO....

Gray Wire: 5.2v
Green Wire 1.6v
Black Wire: 0.01v

Assuming any voltage on the black wire is bad and that is causing the issue?

 

[Razor]

The 1.6 indicates its a 3 bar.

Now.. the key is to see the voltage when the problem is occuring.

I bet it reads 1.6 and everything seems normal

My PAC is preset to activate at 2.2 volts. So when the green wire hits 2.2 volts.. the system starts to spray.

The only two things that will make my kit spray is either pressing the test button or reaching/going over the turnon voltage set.

So what to do.. I would get the multimeter and attach it to the green wire under the dash going to the PAC.. and watch it.. drive car around and see what it reads when the problem occurs.

You could always rewire the 3 bar.. run a new 5v and run a new ground.. like on the sticky thread in this forum. Thats another option.

 

[Beast_TR]

Well I don't have to drive it around, now the pump is spraying and the LED is red when just KOEO, I can hear the PAC box clicking and the pump going when I turn the knob in the remote controller from on to off. I also am getting 1.6v at the MAP and the pump and everything is still going. Now if I turn the knob to off start the car and turn it on the LED does not come on and the pump does not spray. I really do not know what to make of all this