alternator replacement!

[buickGN3:16]

its deffinately time to do it but no good choices out there that i've seen yet that stand up to the volts needed! Any ideas..?

 

[huntsg]

96 Impala is the replacement I use and it works great. Checked it out at Richard Clark's last year and I don't recall the numbers but it was impressive. Certainly more than stock.

 

[buickGN3:16]

Worth looking into.. i want upper 13's to 14's constantly

 

[buickGN3:16]

Volts that is

 

[whitehot1]

For your alternator needs Rockauto.com may save you some money ordering from them.

 

[gtfrede]

Also use 96 impala ss alternator with no problems and holds the numbers your after without issue

 

[buickGN3:16]

ill check it out. i checked on a autozone alt part# that was posted in a past thread & the alt is legit but its internal regulator & non adjustible they said so i ddnt get it. powermaster is too expensive for my taste also

 

[87-WE2]

I tried an alt from O'Reilly for a 96 Impala SS - 5.7......No go. One of the mounting holes was off. I guess I could've used just two bolts to mount, but not my style. I ended up with a Kirban unit AND an O'Reilly reman. Currently running the O'Reilly reman and it runs about 13.2 volts on average according to the SM. Have not tried the Kirban piece yet, but I'll be interested to see what it puts out for voltage.

 

[larrym]

I went with a powerbastard.

Powermaster

 

[buickGN3:16]

i guess the bottom line is how can i get constant 13.5-14?

 

[larrym]

My power master does just that for me. Make sure you have lots of good grounds that affects things too I have an extra at the battery an 2 off the block to the fire wall.

 

[gtfrede]

Mine acted like it was not going to mount to the stock metal bracket but just needed a little persuasion and the through bolt went in

 

[larrym]

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-48203/overview/make/buick

 

[buickGN3:16]

too pricey for me

 

[TLIMITED]

too pricey for me

Take it to your local armature service and they should be able to do anything you want with better parts and cheaper than any auto parts stores.

 

[earlbrown]

Scanmaster voltage and actual voltage are two completely different things. It's very common for our 26+ year old cars to have compromised contacts in the ignition switch.

Take a scanmaster reading and compare it to actual voltage under the hood and that will tell you how much voltage is lost making it's way into the car.

 

[larrym]

I had a 120 amp in mine that I had rebuilt and I still wasn't satisfied with the voltage I was seeing installed the 200 amp power master rarely I see 12.5 volts it's typically 14 to 13.5. I can confirm Earls comments my scan tool read about .5 volts less than the volt meter when tested the back of the alternator.

 

[NorEaster]

I got a NAPA replacement, make sure you spec the highest amperage. I always see right around 13.5-14 volts.

 

[earlbrown]

I had a 120 amp in mine that I had rebuilt and I still wasn't satisfied with the voltage I was seeing installed the 200 amp power master rarely I see 12.5 volts it's typically 14 to 13.5. I can confirm Earls comments my scan tool read about .5 volts less than the volt meter when tested the back of the alternator.

1/2 a volt is actaully pretty awesome. I'm about to pull my entire dash out to do some maintenance/upgrades to the HVAC system, install a pretty indepth car alarm with remote start, and so some mods to the wiring.....

I've got a mental image for a "whole car hotwire kit" that will give full voltage to EVERYTHING, take the load off the ign switch, and make the car more electrically stable. With any luck I can write a ''how to'' that can be installed cleanly without having to take off more than the underdash panel.

I really have a feeling that getting the entire car on the same voltage level will help. I know or a fact it can't hurt.

 

[larrym]

Yes with all the electronic components sensors and a computer solid voltage and continuity are critical grounds grounds grounds and more grounds.