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From gnttype.org

Alternator Facts
The Alt. used on the 84/85 is a 12SI. SI stands for Systems Integral. The was the first GM alt that was internally regulated. It debuted in 1972. (That was a 10SI) Of course, GM was the first to come up with an internally regulated system. This system was an excellent system. It is so easy to work with and is a good design. Well, in the 1980s with all of the computer controlled cars coming out, GM needed an alternator that could communicate with the ECM. In 1986 the CS series Alternators came about. CS stands for Charging Systems. The models, CS121, CS130, CS144 and now CS130D(this is another story!:) The number after the CS is the diameter of the stator in Millimeters. So, on the 86/87 TR it's 144 Millimeters wide. Most all of the CS series unit put out over 85 amps. The TR Alt. doesn't communicate with the ECM. Instead, the regulator monitors everything. It counts the AC counts so it knows how fast the alt is spinning. and can even cut the charge back if necessary. There are over 8 different regulators used in the CS series. They all look and plug in the same but they are different internally. I could go on about what each regulator does differently but that's another time:) The number is stamped on the regulator. On the 86/87 TR's it usually a 411. If you have any questions about your charging system please, feel free to e-mail me. GM by FAR has the best charging systems on the market today.
Alternator Wiring
On the 84/85 the regulator plug in there are two wires. A small and a large. The large one(number 2) has 12v ALL the time. The small wire (number 1) is hot when the key is on and has less than 12v usually around 8 or so. The main post has 12v all the time, also.

On the 86/87 the main post has 12v all the time. The little brown wire has ~2.5v when the key is on.

On both alts, the idiot light works the same. The idiot light circuit applies to the number 1 wire(Small) on the 84/85s. When the Alt. is not spinning or not charging, that regulator terminal is a GROUND. When the alternator is charging it is a positive. Two positives DON'T complete a circuit so the light is off.
Alternator Models/Parts
The Lester number for the 84/85 TR alt is a 7294. It is a 94 amp unit.

The Lester number for the 86/87 TR is 7814. It is rated at 120 amps.

The bearings for the TR alts are as follows: 84/85 front bearing is a 6203, Rear is a needle bearing. On the 86/87 Front bearing is also a 6203 and the rear is a 6000. ALWAYS replace these. It's cheap insurance.

Well, I hope this helps you out when doing your TR alt. If you have any questions please contact me. We would be more than happy to assist you in this. If you get frustrated or just don't want to do it we would be glad to rebuild it for you. Just E-mail us and we will get you straightened out. We carry all parts for these alternators.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/electrical/alt.html
HTH
 
Thanks, willing to bet that the 12si vs 10si thing isnt a big deal. I think that is just the way the alt is clocked (12 o'clock vs 10 o'clock). Its easy to reclock them.

Used Auto Zone's website to check out those Caddy alternators mentioned earlier in the thread. Looked up early 90'-91' and found that they were 120 amp. They are not very expensive at under $100 and carry a lifetime warranty. However I dont know if they are si or the smaller cs models. I cant remember, I will check another site that may have a pic, like Advanced Auto. Or next time Im at the junkyard. 120 (like the 86/87) should make a pretty decent difference, dont ya guys think?

Also, noticed I didnt have on the list:
Automatic engine start
Power locks (lock/unlock w/ ignition and alarm)

P.S. Our alternators are the most common GM alts out there. I know there is a place that has rebuild kits that bump up the amperage to 140 or 200. Maybe Im just not looking good enough but I was hoping someone would just know off hand.
 
Update

At Advanced they offer 140 amp alts for the 90/91 Caddys however found out that they ARE the cs style (smaller alternator like 86/87 TR).
Went back to 85 Caddy Fleetwood Broughm 4.1 w/ optional electrical equipment and the alternators are the correct si model (already correct 12 o'clock position too). They offer an optional 120 and a 124 amp. Both with lifetime warranties. The 120 is under $100 and the 124 is a AC Delco unit and is about $150. Both ship in 1 day.
 
update

When I saw some of the Caddy alternators in person they just looked obnoxiously HUGE and were HEAVY! I wound up grabbing a alt/ac compressor bracket from a NA 3.8 Cutlass at the junkyard and swapped it with my stock TR bracket. This bracket allows use of the newer CS style alts that have a larger mounting bolt span.
I also found at the yard a practically new alternator on a '94 Lesabre (105 amp). For $20 it was worth it to get going until I grab a 140amp LT1 alt from a ImpalaSS or police/taxi pkg Caprice. One note about the 140 amp SS alt is that I found that you have to make sure that is what you are getting. Not all are 140amp, but 105amp. Both Advance Auto and Auto Zone carry it with LT warranty for around $100 w/ $20 core.
By the way, the '87 TR 124amp alt is about $100 also but is a special order.
 
I have reason to believe that I need a alternator with a bit more output. Perhaps one that will at least put out what the stock 86/87s do (120amp). When my battery is at full charge things are fine. After a few weeks though seems that the alternator just cant keep up and sooner or later Im sitting at a stoplight with headlights on, brake applied, etc and scanmaster is showing mid-high 11volts. In my stock TR in the same situation voltage will still be in the 13's.
Both the battery and alternator are known good. Cables are new and good, as are other related wiring. What I think is the issue is that the car has alot of non stock electrical stuff thrown into the mix (i.e. four lighted gauges, dual electric fans, upgraded hi-power radio, alcohol injection, hotwired FP, etc along with the abundance of factory options like digital dash, electronic climate control, power everything....).
Any suggestions? I know a SBC alternator is the same, so where to get one for a decent price that isnt going to break me? I know I dont want one of those high dollar monster 200amp ones made for massive stereo systems, just something around maybe 120amp like the 86/87 cars or perhaps 140amp like the ImpalaSS?
Is there an upgrade that I can do myself with a kit?

TIA, Justin
Hey everyone i realize that this post is older but I have been trying to figure out the correct alternator to have as a direct bolt in and i ordered one for a 1996 Chevy Impala and it is slightly off.

It will fit and bolt in BUT it is missing one threaded mounting point on the back. so i searched and found that the difference is that there are several very close AC Delco part numbers... If you want the one that is the DIRECT replacement with all the mounting lugs then you need to go with the ACDELCO 3351050, this is a 140 Amp direct bolt in.

Perhaps also helpful is that the correct alternator actually is for drum roll:

Buyer's Guide : ACDELCO 3351050 Alternator / Generator

CHEVROLETCAMARO1994-1997
PONTIACFIREBIRD1994-1997
The others that i chased down were very close but notice the back of the case and they either are missing the additional mounting holes OR they are in the wrong place for mounting to different cars. Check RockAuto and just scroll thru these part numbers looking at the back of the case and you will clearly see the difference. I hope this helps (from a guy that ordered 3 Alternators to get it right).... ACDELCO 3351051, ACDELCO 3351049, ACDELCO 3351048 note that the DE distances are spot on for each of these alternators:


DE to Pulley 1st Groove (mm)22.0mm
DE to Rotor Shaft End (mm)43.0

Another similar alternator would be the ACDELCO 3351047 BUT.... note the DE to Rotor Shaft End (mm) is 47 so it is way off...
Alt comparison 1.jpg
 
....... I recently had mine rebuilt , to 130 Amps , for $100. Perhaps you could search for a Starter / Alternator rebuilder in your Neck of the Woods ?
 
Been looking at alternators on Summit's website. Whats the diff between GM 10si and GM 10DN? Which are ours?

Also, Im guessing that a 140amp alt rather than a 200 would be sufficient but Id like some opinions. There is a difference of a couple hundred bucks there so I want to be sure of what I actually need.
Here are electrical accessories that I can think of (Im sure some may not take much of a toll but I will list anyway):

Digital dash
Power windows
Power seat
Power trunk
Electronic touch climate control
Translator
line lock
Acell ignition coil
Scan master & sometimes laptop ran off pwr invertor
(4) lighted gauges, (2) of them w/ electric senders (h20 & oil)
Big fuel pump w/ hotwire
Progressive alcohol injection
Dual electric fans
Rear view mirror with map lights
Alarm
Power windows roll up when alarm activated
Dome light (opera and rear view mirror lights) on when alarm disarmed
Electric door poppers (shaved handles)
High power Pioneer radio
Small amp and woofer in the future

I think thats it
10si
 
I installed a 200 amp alternator from Powermaster. I bought it from Summit Racing. It is three years old and no problems.
You have to be cautious with high output alternators because of the V-belts. there is a lot of slippage. 170amps is as high as I would go unless you are going to convert to a sepentine or ribbed belt. I'm looking at the Mechman 170amp 10si for my car.
 
i used a cadillac 4.5 or 4.9 alternator. it is the same clock position and it is 190 amp and it bolts right in and has the same pully also. never had problems with it. i had on my 84 motor: hotwire kit, 6 electrical gauges, type 2 coil setup, tps tec.
How many phase is that alternator?
 
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