Aluminum Radiator for a GN

[at7we2]

Underboost,

I know a lot of guys eliminate the oil cooler, but I'm a firm believer that if it didn't need to be there, GM would not have gone through the trouble and expense of putting it there. And since I live in Dallas where we frequently see summertime peak ambient temps over 100 deg. for weeks at a time I want to do anything I can to dump heat out of the engine.

I'm considering just running a stand-alone engine oil cooler, maybe one with a dedicated fan.

I like your setup BTW. nice pics!

 

[Underboost]

Underboost, did you get your temp. down ? I also have the RJC FM and on a hot day I have more temp then what I want.... I'm going to have my factory radiator rebuilt, at least that's which way I'm leaning...
Chuck

Not really on the HWY it's 196 and on streets 180 I need to check the 160 stat its 10yrs old also the rad cap psi might be wrong.

 

[Underboost]

If the 160 tstat is ok and the cap isn't the prob then I'll buy a BeCool rad.

 

[87GN_70GS]

The stock replacement radiator (AC Delco 20269, SPI CU683, Visteon 8683, GM 88959433) has 40 rows of 3/8" tubes, 3 tubes per row. A better performer would be to get your original recored with a big-tube high-efficiency unit (Craig Industries) with 1/2" tubes or an even bigger 5/8" tube high-efficiency like the Poliance "VX" core.

 

[Red Regal T]

If the 160 tstat is ok and the cap isn't the prob then I'll buy a BeCool rad.

I run the F-body rad on both my TRs. I run a dual pass permacool oil/trans oil cooler and stock fan. Cars run in the 170s with AC on. I think your problem is your front mount. Perhaps a dual fan setup will help you out. In my mind, you can't beat the F-body rad. They are lighter, a bolt in, and they work. Why spend more. I got mine for next to nothing at the junkyard. :tongue:

 

[Underboost]

I run the F-body rad on both my TRs. I run a dual pass permacool oil/trans oil cooler and stock fan. Cars run in the 170s with AC on. I think your problem is your front mount. Perhaps a dual fan setup will help you out. In my mind, you can't beat the F-body rad. They are lighter, a bolt in, and they work. Why spend more. I got mine for next to nothing at the junkyard. :tongue:

I do have the dual fans as you can see them in my post above.

 

[Red Regal T]

I do have the dual fans as you can see them in my post above.

There are two camaro radiators. The only difference is the core on one is about an inch thick and the V-8 item is about 1.25" thick. You mentioned you paid $90 which is a good price, but maybe it's the thinner unit. If it's only an inch thick, it is the thinner unit.

 

[Underboost]

There are two camaro radiators. The only difference is the core on one is about an inch thick and the V-8 item is about 1.25" thick. You mentioned you paid $90 which is a good price, but maybe it's the thinner unit. If it's only an inch thick, it is the thinner unit.

I have the $118 Autozone#- 433918 for the V8

 

[at7we2]

I paid $95 for mine, new in box. I just checked it and the core is about 1 1/2" thick (maybe more). When I bought it, I asked for an '89 IROC/Z-28 radiator. I'd be surprised if there was any difference between the "IROC" radiator and a regular "Z-28", but I figured I'd ask for it anyway since the IROC was the top of the line performance package that year.

In an earlier post I mentioned I wasn't sure what to do about an engine oil cooler with the new F-body radiator. Today I made a trip to a local hydraulic hose shop and had a set of new oil cooler hoses made up with the correct fittings to use the stock cooler in the F-body radiator. Looks great and fits perfectly.

Still haven't fired it up with the new rad. though. trying to round up a few other odds and ends.

Rob

 

[Underboost]

I paid $95 for mine, new in box. I just checked it and the core is about 1 1/2" thick (maybe more). When I bought it, I asked for an '89 IROC/Z-28 radiator. I'd be surprised if there was any difference between the "IROC" radiator and a regular "Z-28", but I figured I'd ask for it anyway since the IROC was the top of the line performance package that year.

In an earlier post I mentioned I wasn't sure what to do about an engine oil cooler with the new F-body radiator. Today I made a trip to a local hydraulic hose shop and had a set of new oil cooler hoses made up with the correct fittings to use the stock cooler in the F-body radiator. Looks great and fits perfectly.

Still haven't fired it up with the new rad. though. trying to round up a few other odds and ends.


Rob

Perfect! I hope it works well for you.

 

[87geeinn]

AT7WE2,

That sounds like a good setup and one I might go with. However, did you ever get any feedback on the issue with the fittings being much smaller and possibly a restriction in flow? I'm not sure I would want to try that unless I had a oil pressure gauge to measure readings, especially since our cars tend to have low oil pressure at idle anyway.

 

[at7we2]

AT7WE2,

That sounds like a good setup and one I might go with. However, did you ever get any feedback on the issue with the fittings being much smaller and possibly a restriction in flow? I'm not sure I would want to try that unless I had a oil pressure gauge to measure readings, especially since our cars tend to have low oil pressure at idle anyway.

well...hmmm....I'm glad you asked that question '87geeinn, I initially wasn't worried about the smaller size being a restriction because I was thinking that only part of the oil flows through the oil cooler - *However* your post made me stop and think about that and now I'm not sure.

If 100% of the engine oil is routed through the cooler then my new hoses probably won't work as they will probably restrict the flow too much with potentially disasterous results

Does anyone know the flow path of engine oil through the factory oil cooler adapter? Does it route 100% of the engine oil through the cooler or only a portion of it?

TIA,
Rob

 

[SuperCPA]

From what I understand it was designed to pass 100% of the oil through the factory cooler. I can not imagine that it would be designed not to do so unless, there is some sort of pressure relief bypass that I am unaware of.

BTW - I am also one of those in DFW that has not had any ill effects from eliminating this mechanisim altoghether.

If you have not already done so, compare the new tube ID to the stock tube ID. If your new fittings are smaller in size while maintaining the same tube ID as the stock GN tubes, you should be just fine. It sounds like you went through a lot of trouble to make it work and look nice. Hopefully, it was not all for nothing.

 

[disco stu]

There is a bypass in the adaptor sandwich.

 

[Mike70gtx]

I'm at the same crossroads. After a dozen parts stores and other places was unable to find adapters (1" inverted flare to 5/16th) for the oil lines to go into the f body. Am about ready to get the oil lines made at the hydraulic place. But I've also been looking at some oil coolers. They are rated by horspower. The more horsepower the bigger and more expensive. Does that mean that they are designed for 100% of the oil to go through these?
So if there is a by-pass on ours it should not matter if there is a restriction, correct?

 

[SuperCPA]

That seems like a lot of trouble and expense only to have a portion of the oil bypass it's intended route.

 

[VadersV6]

Dont use the tranny cooler lines for oil cooling. The oil lines are much larger than the tranny cooler lines, and are intended for higher fluid flow. You would probably cause alot of damage. I just cut the fittings off the oil cooler lines, flared the ends, and used a single hose with the 2 fittings that screw onto that hub. I just bypassed it and everything's fine. Alot of people have eliminated the oil cooler and are doing ok. I drive 70+ miles a day without the cooler, and given the fact that the F-Body radiator cools so well, my block stays cool, which keeps my oil fairly cool. This radiator is awesome. Best thing Ive done yet with this car. I can climb mountains without the temps rising more than 10 degrees, where before it would rise 50+ degrees....170 up to 225F. I do have an external tranny cooler now, which I would recommend. I dont like the idea of pumping other hot fluids through the radiator. It really takes away the cooling potential.

 

[at7we2]

yeah, the hydraulic hose thing was a waste of time and money. oh well, live and learn. turns out there *is* a bypass, but from what I was told, when the bypass opens, it also bypasses the filter so, not a good idea.

Hmmmm....I wonder if I could drill and tap the cooler in the f-body radiator to fit the larger oil cooler hose fittings??? :biggrin:

I know, I know....why re-invent the wheel right? Hey, if I did things the "easy way" I'd drive a small block Chevy!

I'll probably just buy a external oil cooler with a fan and be done.

 

[Red Regal T]

I opted for a Permacool dual pass oil/trans oil cooler. $110 from Jegs or Summit. The tubes are 5/8". I was concerned when you said you were going to run oil into a trans cooler in the rad. Seems it would be restrictive. I run the cooler in front of the radiator and it cost me about $50 to have longer oil cooler lines made up.

 

[SuperCPA]

yeah, the hydraulic hose thing was a waste of time and money. oh well, live and learn. turns out there *is* a bypass, but from what I was told, when the bypass opens, it also bypasses the filter so, not a good idea.

Hmmmm....I wonder if I could drill and tap the cooler in the f-body radiator to fit the larger oil cooler hose fittings??? :biggrin:

I know, I know....why re-invent the wheel right? Hey, if I did things the "easy way" I'd drive a small block Chevy!

I'll probably just buy a external oil cooler with a fan and be done.

Hey Rob,

If you can, come on out to the car show this Saturday. Maybe Laswell or someone else can give you a different idea or some additional advice.