Am I maxed out?

[dvernst]

I'm ready to start turning up the boost to see how fast I can go. (1/4 mile) I was at the track once this year, and hit 12.29 @ 111.63 1.879 60'. I believe I was at 22-23 psi boost. I don't really know because my new pos autometer boost gauge is way off. So for now i'm going by what the boost controller says. I didn't have it at the track the first time. I have the original head gaskets so I don't think I want to go to much past 25psi. I also will be running 110 octane. With my combination how fast do you think I could or should go? I think I've seen guys with less running faster. I also have a new set of 57lb injectors but no Turbotweak chip for them yet and I also have some MT's on the way. Thanks

 

[Razor]

I'm ready to start turning up the boost to see how fast I can go. (1/4 mile) I was at the track once this year, and hit 12.29 @ 111.63 1.879 60'.

Been to the track only once and already want to crank on the rod. Your looking for a perfect recipe to blow a head gasket.

Leave your cars boost alone and learn to tune it.. there is no instant gratification like a McDonalds drive thru.. you need to work on figuring out the air fuel ratio it likes and put it there.. then play with timing. If you need clarification on this paragraph.. you need to spend time reading this board and use the search function.

It also helps to have good tires and have consisntent 60 foots. Without that, your not going anywhere.

Fix issues like your boost guage.. and learn(seat time) to drive and tune it.

This is how you create a FAST car.. not by learning at 25 PSI.. learn at 21-22 PSI. Then apply the knowledge gained to 24-25-26 PSI.. stock HG's will take upwards of 30 PSI without knock.. with knock.. fugedaboutit..

HTH

 

[Hi-psi]

HG's will take upwards of 30 PSI without knock.. with knock.. fugedaboutit..

HTH

EXACTLY. I've ran 26-27psi with a TE-60 on stock HG's and NEVER blew one. But then again, I never saw more than 1-2 degrees of detonation. However I've had friends destroy HG's (and motors) at 18psi with bad tuning. Every car is a little different. You have to learn what yours likes. Only way to do that is seat time.

 

[1BADDAM]

stock HG's will take upwards of 30 PSI

and then some.

 

[dvernst]

Been to the track only once and already want to crank on the rod. Your looking for a perfect recipe to blow a head gasket.

Leave your cars boost alone and learn to tune it.. there is no instant gratification like a McDonalds drive thru.. you need to work on figuring out the air fuel ratio it likes and put it there.. then play with timing. If you need clarification on this paragraph.. you need to spend time reading this board and use the search function.

It also helps to have good tires and have consisntent 60 foots. Without that, your not going anywhere.

Fix issues like your boost guage.. and learn(seat time) to drive and tune it.

This is how you create a FAST car.. not by learning at 25 PSI.. learn at 21-22 PSI. Then apply the knowledge gained to 24-25-26 PSI.. stock HG's will take upwards of 30 PSI without knock.. with knock.. fugedaboutit..

HTH

Like I said I've been to the track once THIS YEAR. I didn't know I had a problem with my boost gauge until I had another one to compare it to. I wasn't really tuning for boost anyway I was just making sure I had no knock. I guess the way I asked my question I set my self up to get yelled at. I'm totally paranoid about knock, and i'm always checking my o2 readings, and my knock retard everytime I get on the gas. I've been doing this everytime I ever drive the car. So I guess to rephrase my question Does it seem like my mph are about right for my combo and the boost i'm running, It seems like i've seen people with less mods, and less boost running faster 1/4 times and mph. Also how much does your 60' time affect your end of 1/4 mph. Hope this clarifies things a little. Thanks

 

[1BADDAM]

I would say your et/mph are inline with your mods and boost with that 60'

Rule of thumb is every .10 off your 60' is worth .15 down track, can vary depending on the car of course.

FWIW, my Greddy B Spec II is within a few #'s of my VDO from what I can tell. Hard to look in two places at once. :biggrin:

 

[dvernst]

I would say your et/mph are inline with your mods and boost with that 60'

Rule of thumb is every .10 off your 60' is worth .15 down track, can vary depending on the car of course.

FWIW, my Greddy B Spec II is within a few #'s of my VDO from what I can tell. Hard to look in two places at once. :biggrin:

Yeah I just checked mine,(greddy) and on vacuum it is way off. It only reads down to 9.9, but even to get it there I was at over 20 vacuum.(sorry don't know the correct units. I used a matco diagnostic vacuum gauge. For pressure When the diagnostic gauge was at 28psi the greddy was at 26.5. So that is pretty acceptable I think. After I started checking my Autometer gauge I noticed I had a small leak on the line going through the firewall. Hopefully this is why the reading is off. It was only leaking under pressure. under vacuum it was pretty much right on.

 

[dvernst]

I would say your et/mph are inline with your mods and boost with that 60'

Rule of thumb is every .10 off your 60' is worth .15 down track, can vary depending on the car of course.

FWIW, my Greddy B Spec II is within a few #'s of my VDO from what I can tell. Hard to look in two places at once. :biggrin:

Does your 60' actually affect your mph also?

 

[Razor]

Hey the YELLING is tough love

Everytime I go to the track I get the butterflies.. and I go at least 2-3 times a month weather and car running .. you need many passes to see whats what with the car. The McDonalds drive thru instant gratification doesnt apply, and tuning on some cars takes more work than others. So dont compare to what others are doing when figuring your car out.

You have a high 11 second car with some traction. To get it faster than than... you need to get data(record runs) and look/study your time slips and watch the cars progression down the track. Its not just ET/MPH.. the details 330/660/1000... are all part of the equation.

Get more seat time.. make your decisions.. and learn to observe what the motor and car is telling you.

As to the boost guage.. doesnt matter if its 5 lbs off. Its all a reference. If your crappy guage reads 20 PSI.. thats your reference. If you crank the rod in and it goes to 21.. then the guage is serving its purpose. Splitting atoms over one guage reads 26 and the other 22.. and the other 28.. doesnt affect the car getting a number. Whether you run 35 PSI or run 20 PSI.. you need to learn to tune what you have. And tuning doesnt mean play with an allen wrench on your fuel pressure regulator or crank the WG rod in. Tuning means making changes to injector duty cycle and advancing/retarding timing advance. Accomplished by changing parameters within the chip.

HTH :wink:

 

[dvernst]

Hey the YELLING is tough love

Everytime I go to the track I get the butterflies.. and I go at least 2-3 times a month weather and car running .. you need many passes to see whats what with the car. The McDonalds drive thru instant gratification doesnt apply, and tuning on some cars takes more work than others. So dont compare to what others are doing when figuring your car out.

You have a high 11 second car with some traction. To get it faster than than... you need to get data(record runs) and look/study your time slips and watch the cars progression down the track. Its not just ET/MPH.. the details 330/660/1000... are all part of the equation.

Get more seat time.. make your decisions.. and learn to observe what the motor and car is telling you.

As to the boost guage.. doesnt matter if its 5 lbs off. Its all a reference. If your crappy guage reads 20 PSI.. thats your reference. If you crank the rod in and it goes to 21.. then the guage is serving its purpose. Splitting atoms over one guage reads 26 and the other 22.. and the other 28.. doesnt affect the car getting a number. Whether you run 35 PSI or run 20 PSI.. you need to learn to tune what you have. And tuning doesnt mean play with an allen wrench on your fuel pressure regulator or crank the WG rod in. Tuning means making changes to injector duty cycle and advancing/retarding timing advance. Accomplished by changing parameters within the chip.

HTH :wink:

I can feel the love, and I totally respect your opinions on whatever the subject may be. I've got so many things to learn and i'm trying to progress with my car as I learn. I see what you're saying about the boost number. A lot of people state what boost they are running and whatever it may be 18psi or 30psi if the time wasn't or isn't taken to tune for it you're just asking for trouble. Thanks