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AN fitting leaking

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Louie L.

Habitual Line Stepper
Staff member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
4,249
Guys,
I have completed installing a new fuel system in my car consisting of a sumped tank ,-10fuel line up to the stock rail.

At the rail I had a -10 male steel fitting tigged at the stock location. The issue im havig is that im having a slow drip out of this area. It appears that the male and female are not sealing.

Both fittings are i great shape , there is no stripping or damage.

Any advise??. :confused:
 
LEAKZ??

Louie, are you sure the weld on fitting is an AN fitting???They are 37* and the more common automotive stuff is 45*. Could also be that the flare face was warped during welding and they are not making 100% contact. Inspect the welded fitting , looking closely for indications of less than 100% contact.
Not a pin hole in the weld, w/ the gas leaking at the bottom of the weld and dripping off of the hose end??
If all else fails, use a pair of GOOD wrenches and apply a "significant" torque to the fitting, while holding the rail weld on.
DO not use thread sealant tape. That can make a leak worse.
 
I do belive that the AN lines can use a special AN gasket as well. Id go ahead and go that route if the drip persists! jegs/summit sells em.

Evan

BTW... i did an on my datsun, and hate the stuff! Man it just hates sealing.
 
Thats for the replys.
Chuck,
The thought came to mind about the 37 and 45* fittings. I bought a -12 which was tigged to the sump which was the same brand from the same place, that one doesnt leak but its not under pressure either. But i would think that it would leak too at some point.The leak is not coming from the weld that im sure of.

About the AN gasket ,there are washers and o rings but those all have their own applications.

Still leaking

:mad:
 
I wonder if you could get it to seal by fitting an O-ring in the female fitting and screwing it together. It'd be a bit of a cobble-job, but it might get you some miles.
 
Louie, doesn't that set up effectively neck your fuel rail supply line back down to stock size? Wouldn't this be a bit of a restriction?
Ya know, Mr Leeper makes (or knows where to get) a very nice fuel rail with the proper AN fitting?
 
Woody,
There is no restriction with this set up. I drilled the rail where the stock o ring fitting sealed against. Now i have a straight shot into the stock rail. No necking down or nothing.

Anyways the thing is still leaking. No kind of thightening will stop it.Im affraid to thighten anymore. Its a slow drip, maybe every 10 sec there is a drop.


This sux.... The car is finally running after being down for over 7 months.

Like Chuck says........

Back under my leak!
 
I get the picture Louie.....maybe chat with Chuck about his fuel rail....I've seen 'em on two cars locally with big ass Aeromotive pumps and a trick pick up (no sump)...think those were 12 & 10 AN lines...
 
Even if it does neck down right at the fuel rail there is still a large advantage to be had with larger lines. The bulk of the restriction is bends in the small dia stock line.

That's why you can get away with running a larger or dual fuel pumps all the time with only replacing the return line. The regulator isn't the restriction, the lines are. Same theory applies to the feed line.

I still agree though, if you're gonna bother you may as well do the whole shot. Go Hard or GO Home.
 
I don`t think this will help but steel fitting should not be used with aluminum A.N. hose ends . I haved tryed but it always screws up the hose ends . I always use #8 to feed the rail i can`t see a need for #10 Joe Lubrant runs #8 to the rail with 160 lb injectors. If all else fails try a copper air conditioner gasket take a a.n. fitting with you to get the right size it`s like 3/4 barb.
 
i'm ASSuming a couple of things.

1:the fitting welded onto the fuel rail is steel(kinda hard to weld it if it's not;)).i'd give about a 99% guarantee that it's 37.5* an/jic.most 45* stuff(sae) is brass.

2:your -10 hose fitting is aluminum.

first thing i would do is look down into the female end of the hose fitting and look at the seating surface.it should have a nice uniform mark where it contacted the male seat of the weld-on fitting.if the mark is wavy or has obvious gaps the hose fitting is probably bad.i have seen this before:mad: .i have even seen one where the seat wasn't machined at all,no taper just a flat block of aluminum.thank god i looked at it before i sent it out the door with the customer:eek: .


fyi,there are soft copper "gaskets" for tapered fittings,but all the ones i have ever seen are for 45* sae and are designed for low pressure.


later,sean
 
-10 overkill....yes ! But it wont be when my off center stage motor goes in.

Im gonna pull the rail and take to the place where i got the fitting and have them double check it. If its the wrong one It was suggested that i have them put their matching hose end on my hose.
 
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