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Any down side to Vacuum brakes?

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Originally posted by streetknight
My particular application is that my car will be raced more than street driven. In fact it will probably only be driven to the drag strip and back. So holding 15psi on the line is very important to me as I'm trying to get the car to ET as fast as possible in my street class.

If that's the case, then I'll take back what I said. You should be able to get your holding power with the S10 wheel cylinders, the soft compound shoes, and an adjustable proportioning valve.

You'll have to fiddle with it, and it will get a little hairy if you have to make a panic stop on the street (rears will lock up way before the fronts and the back end will try to come around), but you can do it.

You could get around the rear lock up by adjusting the prop valve for better street use and marking the knob, then turning it back and forth as the situation warrants, but that could be a pain if you don't relocate the prop valve to somewhere easier to get to.
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
your "irrelevant crap" mixed up.

After you install one of these high end brake systems on your TR, let us know how it all shakes out. :rolleyes:
your the idiot that thinks abs is a power master system and doesnt know how they work ,duuhhhhhhh!

i have a good functioning pm and ill bet you everything being the same(ie cause you dont read very well) wheel cyclinders, brake shoes, drums=ill hold more boost at the line and stop shorter than you standing in line for brains:rolleyes:
now go make up a good story to boost your sales
 
Originally posted by gnocide
ill hold more boost at the line and stop shorter than you standing in line for brains:rolleyes:
now go make up a good story to boost your sales

Since stopping distance is determined mostly by tires and a lesser degree pad material and pad surface area, this statement indicates you could do some more homework yourself.
 
Originally posted by Turbo6inKY
Since stopping distance is determined mostly by tires and a lesser degree pad material and pad surface area, this statement indicates you could do some more homework yourself.
everything being the same dork..........like it says above
what you cant read either?????
 
There's always a know it all in the mix. Can't stand to be wrong, so to make up for your ineptness, all you can do is call names? Try to grow up. Name calling is not appropriate in this forum.

Vacuum brakes work on TRs. TRs are not big or small block muscle cars with big cams. TRs are TRs. TRs are not toyota, lexus, or benz, or any other late model car. All you can do is maintain the powermaster or change over to vacuum. Another option is hydro-boost. Supposedly these work very well, but I haven't had any experience with them. You can buy the setup for about $600. Do a search if your interested.
 
my apolagy for the name call

im not wrong either ,you cant fix or understand how it works , but your advise is golden on powermasters right?
try to see past that dollar bill in your pocket.

there is also another thing in every crowd
a misinformed sales scam to falsly lead people in efforts to make money
 
Originally posted by gnocide


there is also another thing in every crowd
a misinformed sales scam to falsly lead people in efforts to make money

So what is it that you're inferring?
 
im done with this
what need to be said is said
 
Originally posted by gnocide
a misinformed sales scam to falsly lead people in efforts to make money

WTF? Red is not scamming anyone selling his vacuum brake setup. I bought one, changed over from a troublesome powermaster, and never looked back. Mine works great. I used an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear and 2 long shoes. I can hold as much boost as I want with no problems. Those that can't seem to hold boost may try a reservior or supplemental vacuum pump. The name calling and getting all bent out of shape about a simple brake discussion is nonsense. The guy simply asked if vacuum brakes were feasible on a TR....yes they are, they work well, and as Red said, much cheaper and easier to maintain.
 
Originally posted by noslo6
WTF? Red is not scamming anyone selling his vacuum brake setup. I bought one, changed over from a troublesome powermaster, and never looked back. Mine works great. I used an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear and 2 long shoes. I can hold as much boost as I want with no problems. Those that can't seem to hold boost may try a reservior or supplemental vacuum pump. The name calling and getting all bent out of shape about a simple brake discussion is nonsense. The guy simply asked if vacuum brakes were feasible on a TR....yes they are, they work well, and as Red said, much cheaper and easier to maintain.
well i told the thread starter why pms are better based on the function and engineering and got told i was wrong later by, get this , someone selling a different brake system that cant diagonos or fix a pm=misinformed.
ive already apoligized for the name call (second time now)
please re-read before you come here trying to blame re-start stuff that was already discussed.:rolleyes:
 
The *big Mod* to adapt the PM to the TTA, would be reangling the tank. If they thought it was necessary they'd have done it.

With the millions of vac assisted cars on the road, it would be hard to argue, that they have any serious shortcomings.

If you want to race your GN, ie hold alot of boost when staging with vac brakes, then run an Electric vac pump, like other GM cars have run.

For a daily driver, street car, the vac's are fine as is.


As far as pressure generated by the PM, or Vac it's rather moot since the tires will lock up with either system.

Not to mention with the Vac setup you usually get a poor pedal, before the instant failures so prevalent with the PMs, where you can find yourself basically without brakes, in one pedal application. For that reason alone, I'll never run a PM again.
 
Originally posted by gnocide
well i told the thread starter why pms are better based on the function and engineering and got told i was wrong later by, get this , someone selling a different brake system that cant diagonos or fix a pm=misinformed.
ive already apoligized for the name call (second time now)
please re-read before you come here trying to blame re-start stuff that was already discussed.:rolleyes:

I'm not asking for another apology or to blame or to restart anything. I'm simply stating my opinion on the matter. That is what this board is for, to lay down opinions and discuss matters in a mature format. Once you learn how to do this maybe others won't be so critical of your obvious "attitude". Not everyone on here agrees about everything, but being a smarta$$ will never help your cause pal :D
 
Originally posted by bruce
The *big Mod* to adapt the PM to the TTA, would be reangling the tank. If they thought it was necessary they'd have done it.

With the millions of vac assisted cars on the road, it would be hard to argue, that they have any serious shortcomings.

If you want to race your GN, ie hold alot of boost when staging with vac brakes, then run an Electric vac pump, like other GM cars have run.

For a daily driver, street car, the vac's are fine as is.


As far as pressure generated by the PM, or Vac it's rather moot since the tires will lock up with either system.

Not to mention with the Vac setup you usually get a poor pedal, before the instant failures so prevalent with the PMs, where you can find yourself basically without brakes, in one pedal application. For that reason alone, I'll never run a PM again.
I just converted my car over to the vaccum system. The car does excellent for normal driving, but I can't hold anywhere near the same amount of boost as with the PM system. The electric vac pump sounds like it could be the answer. What cars did this pump come on?
 
I don't think the vacuum pump will do it, but you can try one. You can get one from any 85 thru 87 front drive cadillac. Turbo6in KY mentioned an adjustable proportioning valve that can be purchased at summit. That may be the way to go. Shoot him an email. ;)
 
Originally posted by lost2a6
I just converted my car over to the vaccum system. The car does excellent for normal driving, but I can't hold anywhere near the same amount of boost as with the PM system. The electric vac pump sounds like it could be the answer. What cars did this pump come on?

Do you have a *GOOD* vac source?.
Is the check valve good?.

You might have to intially step on them harder, since the vac assist leaves as you go into boost.
The fact that it stops as well, means you have at least as much line pressure, with the vac..

To answer your guestion, the early Cad Cimarons.
 
I no longer use the vac. port going to the PCV valve, so I just tied the booster into the PCV port. I feel that the check valve is good. I can shut the car off and let it sit for a while; pull the check valve and it still has a residual of vac left.
Thanks:)
 
Originally posted by bruce


To answer your guestion, the early Cad Cimarons.

The cadillac I was talking about were the front drive devilles. I'm not familiar with the Cimaron pump. 85 thr 87 Devilles are plentiful in junkyards right now, but not for long.
 
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