Anyone ever try a precooler idea?

6SENSE

I think your benefits on hot air would be greatest if alky/h2o is used, because otherwise the heat post compressor would equal or exceed the block temperature, nullifying any theoretical improvements of the insulating qualities of phenolics, right?

thanks

Joe
 
the heat in the tb wont be solved with a spacer

engine bay temps are hot as hell, thats why the tb gets hot.. 2 headers, that huge ****ing up pipe.. its not just heat transfer between the compressor side and the TB

plus, the tb is usually hot, but its not burn your hand hot, like the compressor usually is.
 
I might suggest a dual stage system..

the air out of the turbo is quite hot, and only a SHORT space to go from the turbo to the intake.. alcohol will benefit, but not completely..on the intercooled car, you have a lot of tubing for the air to cool down .. if you inject a small amount into the throttle body, and then a larger amount after the turbo in the adapter, you might attain better cooling..

?
 
joe-are you talking about insulating the throttle body from the turbo with a spacer or insulating the intake manifold from the block?

you could use a phenolic spacer between the tb and the turbo(i've got an aluminum one to adapt my tb to my turbo)but there's no way in hell you could use 1/4" phenolic on the intake mating surfaces on a v-style motor.the intake wouldn't fit.

later,sean
 
I have addressed heat underhood with a lot of venting, trim removal, etc. Per my logger intake is barely over ambient as long as the car is moving 25+, but you GN guys have a different setup, so YMMV. :D

Pre turbo injection scares me :( unless you have very high pressure, a small orifice and great atomization, but I think that issue has been talked through before so i will move on.

I am talking using 3/16" or 1/4" phenolic spacer material between intake manifold and the motor. Since mani's get machined to accomodate shaved heads for higher compression, especially when they are angle decked for a straighter shot, why can't the same be done here? Does that make any sense? I am trying to shift gears from I-4 to V6 and visualize this. :) Any thoughts?

Thanks

Joe
 
has anyone made any runs with icing the plenum? If I can ever get my car running good...I'll more than likely do it. I just want to know what kind of gains can I expect.
 
So how much material COULD be machined away to create some room for a spacer? In theory the phenolic spacer could probably be as thin as 3/32" or 1/8" and still offer benefits. And remember, you are eliminating/replacing a gasket that I presume is around 1/16th", maybe as much as 1/8th", I just don't know much about 3.8's. You don't think you could surface off 1/16" so you could run a 1/8" gasket?

Icing the plenum seems very temporary- short lived benefits. You are heat transferring while staging, yes?

Joe
 
See

Now this is what I'm talkin' about. Bringing "new" ideas to the buicks. Someone with lottsa money prease try this and let us know how or if it works.
 
Turtle TR, I have Iced down my intake before, but it was only at a 1/8th mile track in between runs. I can't say how good it did because I was making almost back to back runs in two classes. It definitely did some good because even with only a 5-10 minute break between runs on a 90* day in KS. the car stayed consistent all day long. Can't say the same for me, only took fourth in one class. But like joereitman said this is very short lived because I was dumping probably 3 lbs of ice on the intake after each run.
 
www.thermaltechcoatings.com

i think that is the site..

get your intake coated with the heat resistant/ oil shedding compound on the bottom, and get the inside coated with the thermal barrier, probably coat the outside with the thermal barrier too..
 
Pricing seems fairly reasonable, assuming it works as advertised:

V6 Aluminum Factory or after market (1 piece) $65.00


Joe
 
I've had my intake Jet-hot coated inside and out for the past 5 years. I don't know how well it insulates but it makes cleaning it very easy. Oil and dirt come right off. Even with over 30,000 miles on it when I tore the motor apart it was very clean on the bottom side. It's pretty cheap, I had my intake, exhaust housing, headers, crossover, uppipe, and downpipe coated. I think it was around $400 for everything, can't remember that far back very well.
 
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