Anyone running the 3.5" LS-1 MAF sensor?

[Intercooler]

UPS guy just dropped mine off. The LT-1 necked down to 2.5" at the narrowest point. Not this unit! I remember back when I had a Ram-Air T/A everyone would cut the dividers out inside (like the Granatelli housings) for what was thought to be more flow and to help with an over-rich condition. Is it a positive or negative thing to do with our cars? Also, how about removing the single screen? Using with a Max-Effort of course. TIA

 

[Kevin Turch]

I just put mine in normally, didnt mess with anything. Seems to be ok.

Kevin

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Intercooler
UPS guy just dropped mine off. The LT-1 necked down to 2.5" at the narrowest point. Not this unit! I remember back when I had a Ram-Air T/A everyone would cut the dividers out inside (like the Granatelli housings) for what was thought to be more flow and to help with an over-rich condition. Is it a positive or negative thing to do with our cars? Also, how about removing the single screen? Using with a Max-Effort of course. TIA

The oem calibrations now adays for WOT are too rich, so in an oem application artificially leaning one out can gain someone some HP. But with a T+ or ME the WOT fuel is adjustable so there is no gain to be make since you can make the correction to get WOT correct.

While the 3" has a bore of about 2.5, the 3.5 has a bore of 2 7/8.

If your worried about the MAF as a restriction then make it a blow thru.

Removing the screens, and cutting the vane out junks the oem calibration of the MAF. Might help, but 50/50 that you'll lose more then you gain. Only way to find out is with accurate testing.

 

[salvageV6]

Is it a #25179711 1#213-353?
I didn't touch mine.

 

[twin 93 svt]

I used the granatelli

 

[captrob]

Hey Bruce...

Did you leave the screen in on the blow through setup? Think I read where the screen straightens out the air flow like a diffuser. Am I correct?
Thanks, CaptRob

 

[LikeMy6]

I use the LS1 sensor w/t 4" Billet adapters to replace the factory ends. also have 4" cold air kit from mark Huefman feeding it then a 4" solid pipe between it and the PT70 Turbo. With those ends on it it has NO dividers and is over 3" at its smallest point(the sensor element itself). According to PTE and Mike Litch it flows in the neighborhood of 1200cfm. I have ZERO drivablilty issues w/t it. No off idle stumble no hesitation and great idle.


HTH

Frank

 

[bruce]

Re: Hey Bruce...

Originally posted by captrob
Did you leave the screen in on the blow through setup? Think I read where the screen straightens out the air flow like a diffuser. Am I correct?

They even the air flow out across the entire meter's sensing area.

There is an advantage to leaving it in for a smoother idle, it's not going to make it glass smooth, but it is a little better as far as *jitter*. It also seems to help in really cold weather, ie 20dF.

My current setup is with the screen, and no vane.

You can over do it, and get too large of cross sectional area, and there is a point where the sensor can be made to screw up but it takes some machine work on the housing, to do that. There are perferred angles for the entry, and exit from the sensor's area.

The best combination I've had to date is the 3.5 sensor in the 3" housing, vaneless, with screen, blow thru. But, that's for my combination.

If you have to go screenless, and vaneless, then you should use a WB to make sure the calibration is right. The Buick engine is a miracle of forgivingness, and you can run it with a really poor cal., and it will seem OK. Just that you'll be replacing headgaskets, and rod bearings alot more often then necessary.

 

[captrob]

Thanks Bruce. Sorry Intercooler for stepping on your thread.

I've got a 3.5" sensor and been looking around for a 3" to swap the ends on. And I think I'll leave the screen in but mill out the vane as per your setup.
And I'm about halfway done with my DIY wideband. (I'm not an expert at soldering ) Maybe by spring!
Thanks, CaptRob

 

[bruce]

Re: Thanks Bruce. Sorry Intercooler for stepping on your thread.

Originally posted by captrob
And I'm about halfway done with my DIY wideband.

And when your done, I hope you visit:

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/chips/chiptips.html

Then you can have a car that REALLY drives well, and kicks.