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Applying Bondo To Hood

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83turbomon

Starvin Like Marvin...
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
3,704
Im currently sanding an 84/85 GN hood, and it has a few spots that a good coats of bondo wouldnt hurt, the biggest concern is that heat kills bondo. Bondo if prepared properly cures pretty well without pinholing. Is there anyway to prevent bondo cracking from engine heat/exposure to sun?

Ill post up pics later in the day
 
People put body-filler on hoods all the time.
 

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filler should be fine. if your that worried you can use all metal. USC All-Metal Premium Aluminum Filled Auto Body Filler
but, having a drawthru car, i suggest that you make a heat shild that mounts on the under side of the hood, like the hot air guys do.

waay ahead of you. I Got a SFI hot air GN hood that had the heat pad that needs to be replaced. I had one on the buick, but I took it off. It kept getting sucked into the carb.
 
I wish All Metal and Duraglass would just go away. It is the hack answer to everything. Filler is fine when used correctly. You need a good quality filler like Rage Gold, Rage Extreme, etc, not cheap crap. Old fillers had poor corrosion protection, which gave fillers a bad name. Everybody thinks duraglass is water proof, so it should be used. Every car I worked on that had duralass in it had rust starting under it. All metal is a joke too. These products are still being sold to back yard hacks that think they can fill a rust hole with them. Fillers are made to fix dents, not holes. It shouldn't be thicker than 1/4". If more than that is needed, then the panel isn't ready for filler. Back to the metal work.
The next step, etch primer. A spray can etch primer is not designed to be used over large areas of bare metal, just small break throughs. Epoxy is about as outdated as Lacquer. I would use it on a frame, floorpan, or underhood, but not on an exterior finish where gloss holdout is a concern. An acid etch should be used. Your finished product is only as good as the products used. And the products need to be used properly. There is alot of misinformation when it comes to painting. People misuse products and blame it on the product. The worst part is one bad job by a hack gives the entire industry a bad name. But what do I know?
 
I have been reading about paint alot lately and if seems most skip the acid etch and use quality epoxy over bare Metal.
 
Epoxy is old tech. A good acid etch is hard to beat for overall corrosion protection. Epoxy works, but it never really "cures", so its molecules are constantly "moving", which can cause the final finish to pinch up or die back. Alot of guys still use epoxy because that is what they were taught. There is no need to apply epoxy under filler. Old guys have a hard time with new products. There are still some people that think lacquer is better than urethane. Some people still insist on painting over a factory lacquer finish. Don't believe everything that you read. People misuse products and it comes out fine, but what does it look like after 1 year, 5 years, 1 hour?
 
I wish All Metal and Duraglass would just go away. It is the hack answer to everything. Filler is fine when used correctly. You need a good quality filler like Rage Gold, Rage Extreme, etc, not cheap crap. Old fillers had poor corrosion protection, which gave fillers a bad name. Everybody thinks duraglass is water proof, so it should be used. Every car I worked on that had duralass in it had rust starting under it. All metal is a joke too. These products are still being sold to back yard hacks that think they can fill a rust hole with them. Fillers are made to fix dents, not holes. It shouldn't be thicker than 1/4". If more than that is needed, then the panel isn't ready for filler. Back to the metal work.
The next step, etch primer. A spray can etch primer is not designed to be used over large areas of bare metal, just small break throughs. Epoxy is about as outdated as Lacquer. I would use it on a frame, floorpan, or underhood, but not on an exterior finish where gloss holdout is a concern. An acid etch should be used. Your finished product is only as good as the products used. And the products need to be used properly. There is alot of misinformation when it comes to painting. People misuse products and blame it on the product. The worst part is one bad job by a hack gives the entire industry a bad name. But what do I know?

ya I think the problem is our shop uses kinda cheap filler... well nothing I can do about that.
 
Epoxy is old tech. A good acid etch is hard to beat for overall corrosion protection. Epoxy works, but it never really "cures", so its molecules are constantly "moving", which can cause the final finish to pinch up or die back. Alot of guys still use epoxy because that is what they were taught. There is no need to apply epoxy under filler. Old guys have a hard time with new products. There are still some people that think lacquer is better than urethane. Some people still insist on painting over a factory lacquer finish. Don't believe everything that you read. People misuse products and it comes out fine, but what does it look like after 1 year, 5 years, 1 hour?

well said! i used dupont variprime on my car, then a good 2k primer and block sand several times. its been 10 yrs now and still looks great
 
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