ATTN: wh1-Denver OR others... Water Injection for an L67 GTP.......

[Iron Indian]

Hello,

I'm new to this forum, just registered on here. I'm from clubgp and of course drive a different car than most others here. Hey, at least i'm a GM car, right???

Anyway, I've been looking for a way to combat KR with my setup. An Intercooler would be ideal, but your looking at $1,500 and that isn't really up my alley price wise and a couple other reasons. Soon there will be a less efficent IC avaible for $500, but i'm thinking it won't be able to help me out with what I want to do. I don't want to add NOS or do Propane Injection. I just want to cool the cylinders somewhat. My last option... water injection. I saw the thread on here about "wh1-Denver" setup on an 2003 Regal (for those who don't know, thats the same driveline I have in my GTP). Anyway, i'd like to hear how he built the setup and how much it costs. I'm hoping its not way too pricey, but I want it effective too. I've heard of WI kits being homemade for anywhere from $125 to $700. I got one piece for the project, a ZZP 3/4" Throttle Body Spacer.

Thanks for any info that can help me out.

 

[Razor]

I did the kit on the 2003 GS. It took me 12 hours to figure the car out, the pictures of the install are on my install pages of my site.

The kit was going to be mid 6's becuase of the plate(you have), solenoid, extra length of hoses, and misc needed to make it happen. If you can mod the plate your self, that would drop prices tremendously. It took a while to get the nozzle positioned into the plate just rite, and its all bout labor time and risk involved with the plate(breaking,cracking,etc). At least I put pictures up on how its done

I dunno if the '03GS currently as of today has the 2.8 or 3.0 pulley on it. And also found that turnon points need to be higher to offset consumption. I'll see if WH1-Denver posts results. One thing for sure, it knocked the detonation on top of the gears to nill.

 

[wh1-Denver]

It now has the 3.0 and I only see trans knock ret around 1-4 deg. But the autotap knock counter is not registering any knock. This is puzzling me. No knock Counts but knock ret. Is the computer just pulling timing out since it is seeing an increase in boost over stock? I have tried to research on the difference in KR and actual knock but have not figured it out yet. I have read that DHP will eliminate some of the KR so that leaves me to believe that the stock computer is just pulling timing out on its own.

 

[Iron Indian]

Razor: Any ideas on pricing if I do the Tb Spacer myself? You can E-mail me personally at: IronIndianGTP@hotmail.com .


wh1-Denver: On these cars, if any knock is picked, false or real, timing will be taken away and you'll loose power. Thats why KR is a killer for us performance wise. The only way you can take advantage of all the power is to always have 0 KR, which is hard. I wish I could get 0, but that ain;t happening. On a mean downshift i've seen 11 degrees of KR. Real or False, I have no idea. I don't have an autotap, all I got is a Ramchargers L67 Scanmaster. I'm properly modded and only running a 3.4", KR is a night mare.

I wonder, what do GN guys do to fight KR? I mean, do your guys disable knock sensors or what? I hear thats a no no on the clubgp boards, I assume it is hear as well. Is there anyway to dampen there sensitivity. Intense offers a False KR kit for us L67 guys, its DYNOMAT Expreme and its meant to be wrapped around the knock sensors.

Shawn

 

[wh1-Denver]

I don't see any KR on my T-Type unless it picks up an actual knock through the knock sensor. I will get knock counts and then it will KR. But with the GS I see no knock count and still get some KR.