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Aw Man, Damn Noise!!!!!!!!!!

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TurboRussty

New Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2002
Messages
94
well i installed the following new speed pro double roller timing chain, deleted the timing chain dampner, but in a new cam button bearing (updated type not plastic one),new water pump, 160 t-stat, new rad hoses, new gaskets everywhere, new oil pan gasket, new rod bearings (standard size clevite 77) i had cleaned up the crank just slightly and when i mean slightly i mean slightly with a piece of material that was given to me at a machine shop like a sand paper on a strip.

the reason i had changed the rod bearings was due to a very low noise coming from the sides of the car that you could only hear from the sides and not from the front of the car. it almost sounded like a lifter but a little denser in sound and comiong from the bottom of the car from the oil pan.
well the car previuosly was making a noise everytime on start-up it sounded like a very fast rattle noise as the engine starts up then revs down and goes away qucikly after that. you only hear the sound for approx. 2-3 secs. very fast then the noise from the bottom of the car comes out after a little while of driving you do not hear anything if thew car is cruising at about -20 lbs of vacum and then when i bring it on up to -5 vac or 0 on the guage then you can hear the TACK noise a little more but still very low but increasing with the amount of throttle you give once it boost then you do not hear it anymore. and when you are doing 70-75 forget about it you do not hear anything at all and the car runs,revs and drives 100% hard as a$$..

well after getting everything done myself and torquing everyting to specs the car started up with out any of the above for about 10 mins of driving, i then turned off the car filled up with some gas and then when i went to start it up the car did it again that brief rattle noise and then it went away but the TACK noise had come back.

what on on gods green earth is my damn problem.......

anybody somebody......
 
hey intercooler but i did not touch anything up top. one of my partners told me that maybe with the tension from the double roller t/chain that my 120,000 lifters wont hold...or springs.

i was planing on opening up top soon due to the fact that i do not stall and love preventative maint. if it was a lifter whichi doubt why is it making noise from the above changed parts....

what springs would you recomend the CC980-12 and what lifters the stock replacements not rebuilt.....

please get back ...:D
 
Originally posted by TurboRussty
hey intercooler but i did not touch anything up top. one of my partners told me that maybe with the tension from the double roller t/chain that my 120,000 lifters wont hold...or springs.

i was planing on opening up top soon due to the fact that i do not stall and love preventative maint. if it was a lifter whichi doubt why is it making noise from the above changed parts....

what springs would you recomend the CC980-12 and what lifters the stock replacements not rebuilt.....

please get back ...:D
Are you getting any metal? I haven't seen it but some others have had the gear hit the front cover when swapping to a double. They had to do a little grinding! What chain doesn't matter a hill of beans in this situation as it doesn't add extra load just by a chain. If anything, running with no tensioner should be easier! 980 or 981 will do the job at the correct height and a set of Melling or Sealed Power lifters. Use the old screwdriver to the ear method:D
 
Ummm, oil drain back valve in your oil filter not working?
 
try the torque convertor bolts- perhaps they are slightly loose???

that one threw me for a loop for a few hours one day :D
 
I'm going out on a limb, but sometimes the EGR valve makes a tapping noise. Plug the vaccum line going to it and go for a ride.
 
hey turbodace i am using the K&N p/n HP-2001 oil filter do you think this can be causing the oil not to get there on start-up.....

i do not know weather or not this filter has the anti-drainback on it. do you think you can chime in on this one or should i just go with the normal ole' PF-52 A/C filter.....

hey russ, i will try the egr deal but i doubt it is that but hey it is worth a shot checking and it is not hard to do will report back on this one.

and quick6nkc when i went below to change the oil pan gasket i checked the 3 bolts for the t/c and they were all torqued to proper specs.... no play down there either.......

any one else like to chime in on this deal i put a little marvel mystery oil in and the noise went away a little bit but then i went for a ride on x-way when i got off there it was again.....

the car holds 15lbs of boost and is running like hell, what could this be if it was a rod bearing would i feel a loss in power.......if it was knocking.....


i also wanted to know if the car was knocking what would it register on the scanmaster on some runs me and turbojorge did there was no knock then we tried it a couple more times and at most i recieved 3-5 degrees at most during the following runs....but the car was a little hot about 187-192 degrees. if the car had rod knock what would it register at least on the scanmaster........
 
I don't know anything about that particular K&N.

You really CANT go wrong with a PF52.
 
Have you taken off the cam sensor cap? They tick sometimes too when there is too much shaft play. Up and down play. Check the cap for wear from the interrupter ring moving up and hitting the cap. If so, you can get shims to limit the end play.
 
Under the MAF pipe/hose on top of the timing cover. The small black cap with 3 wires coming out. It's just behind the water pump under the upper radiator hose.
 
if it was the cam sensor then i think i would hear the noise as soon as i open the hood right there off of the front of the motor.but i do not here anything from the front of the engine bay i can only here the tack noise from the sides or rear of the car.....

please i really hope it is not the crank i will take it to one of my buddys that works on TR and let me see what he has to say about the situation.....:confused:
 
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