Axle seal replacement questions.

[Powertechn2]

Thanks in advance.

Found today that my drivers axle seal is leaking.

So I have a few questions...

How bad is it to replace the axle seals?

Also, how likely is it that I actually need to do the bearing and possibly shaft?

Do these rear ends have a lot of issues with bearings, or just the original seals are likely just old and leaking?

One other question, how much slip lock needs to be added?


Thanks again, I did try to search, but it kept giving me an error and search function is down I guess.

 

[mikestertwo]

The seals are easy to change. The axle bearings are a little harder. You will need a slide hammer to remove them being that they are pressed in. The easiest way to remove the seals is to use the axle itself. Insert the C clip end of the axle on the lip of the seal and use it like a pry bar. It will pop the seal right out. Something I learned when I worked for Chevrolet a long, long time ago. You should replace the bearing and axle if the axle is pitted where the bearing rides on it.

 

[Powertechn2]

The seals are easy to change. The axle bearings are a little harder. You will need a slide hammer to remove them being that they are pressed in. The easiest way to remove the seals is to use the axle itself. Insert the C clip end of the axle on the lip of the seal and use it like a pry bar. It will pop the seal right out. Something I learned when I worked for Chevrolet a long, long time ago. You should replace the bearing and axle if the axle is pitted where the bearing rides on it.

Thanks.

I had planned on using my seal puller to pull the existing leaking seal.

Just not sure if these rear ends are known to smoke bearings, aka do I likely need an axle shaft kit.

Also not sure what spline the stock axles are.

Parts are cheap.

A local ring/pinion shop quoted me $250ish to replace both side seals, and for that money I would rather do it myself.

 

[mikestertwo]

Thanks.

I had planned on using my seal puller to pull the existing leaking seal.
Just not sure if these rear ends are known to smoke bearings, aka do I likely need an axle shaft kit.
Also not sure what spline the stock axles are.
Parts are cheap.
A local ring/pinion shop quoted me $250ish to replace both side seals, and for that money I would rather do it myself.

The stock axles are 28 spline. As far as bearing longevity it depends on how much abuse they have seen. I have seen rears with 180K on them and the bearings were still good and I have seen rears with 75K on them and the bearings were toast. Your not going know what you need until you take it apart. To pull the seals a seal puller will work but using the axle is a lot easier.

 

[Powertechn2]

Well I guess at $1 a seal, I will order two, take it apart and see what I have to work with.

The car has had a 28x12.50 tire since probably 2002, saw some track time... Sure none of that was really good for it.
Thanks again.

 

[ek02]

There used to be an aftermarket axle saver bearing that placed the rollers in a different location on the axle bearing surface. I have not seen one in years though. I used them once and they worked fine for a while, then the seals in the bearing kit started to leak. I ended up with new axles to fix it. Good idea, but poor quality. If you are not hearing any noise from the axles you may get by with just seals.

 

[Powertechn2]

There used to be an aftermarket axle saver bearing that placed the rollers in a different location on the axle bearing surface. I have not seen one in years though. I used them once and they worked fine for a while, then the seals in the bearing kit started to leak. I ended up with new axles to fix it. Good idea, but poor quality. If you are not hearing any noise from the axles you may get by with just seals.

I believe I found the repair kits out there still.

I plan on just taking it apart hoping it's just the seal. At that point if it is the bearing I will consider the bearing repair kit.

Again, these are cheap parts. Even shafts aren't that bad.

Maybe tomorrow I will pull the tire and see if there is any play.


My car makes all sorts of noises hahaha, can't really tell if any are from the rear end or where.

 

[Powertechn2]

Went and got the parts. Was just cheaper to buy locally, even from ADV.A.

Got to thinking today.

I was only going off what another tech had said that my axle seal was leaking on the dr. side.

I know something is leaking...


I draped my hand around the drum, smelled it today. It doesn't really smell like gear lube. Especially not 17 year old gear lube.

I think I actually have a leaking wheel cylinder.

Saturday I plan on pulling my drum and actually looking at it. Weather willing. Gotta get it to work and up in the air. Screw this work on the ground bs.

I started thinking that the tech that told me this is kind of a hack. FNG @ work. Pretty back yardish.

With that said, if it is wheel cylinders, I plan on just replacing both sides, with drums, hdw kits, and cylinders.

Now, I figure while I am there, and already have to bleed the system, might as well address the fronts. The squeal tabs are at that point where they are barely starting to squeak.


Anyone used Power Stop's front extreme street warrior kit? Seems almost too cheap. Less than $220 for drilled/slotted rotors, pads, and calipers. Assuming I send in the core. Otherwise $250, which is still cheap to me.

 

[Buick Mark]

Pull the drums and see whats going on.

 

[Powertechn2]

I did, the drivers axle seal is leaking. Just seal looks rusty/crusty.

Not sure if someone used some odd lube that doesn't have that nasty gear lube smell, or my smeller is just off. Still didn't smell like gear lube. But I smell bad things in the shop all day, so my nose might just be weird.

Funny note: I have the $95 HF jack. The gdamned handle pulled out after the first pump. What a pita to get it to release without the handle being in. Couldn't fit anything in to rotate the release valve. Spent more time dicking with the jack than taking everything apart.

 

[Powertechn2]

That was super easy. Quick too.

Axles were not pitted, just seals were old and crusty.

Diff and gears looked good. No abnormal wear, really clean too.

Added 4 oz of sliplock additive. Hopefully that is right. Should have replaced the pin bolt, but didn't think about it till I was putting it back together.