Hey all,
I am still trying to diagnose a rough, rich idle, and stalling on my car.
Last night I pulled off the EGR valve to check it out. When I pushed in the diaphragm and covered the vacuum tube with my finger the plunger came back out on its own in about 4 seconds. So... guess that's bad!
I see three options:
1) Get new valve - $$ and probably take a few days to get
2) Bolt old valve back on and cap vacuum line going to solenoid - No $$'s Will I get a malfunction code from my Thrasher 93 chip?
3) Buy or make a block-off plate - $$ and probably take a few days to get.
Which option would you vote for?
The thing that keeps bugging me is that there should be zero vacuum going to the EGR valve at idle unless the solenoid is bad right? So a bad EGR valve shouldn't affect idle only give a vacuum leak at part throttle cruise. Right now I am just trying to eliminate things in hopes that something will change and I can find the problem.
Any experience or thoughts are appreciated.
I am still trying to diagnose a rough, rich idle, and stalling on my car.
Last night I pulled off the EGR valve to check it out. When I pushed in the diaphragm and covered the vacuum tube with my finger the plunger came back out on its own in about 4 seconds. So... guess that's bad!
I see three options:
1) Get new valve - $$ and probably take a few days to get
2) Bolt old valve back on and cap vacuum line going to solenoid - No $$'s Will I get a malfunction code from my Thrasher 93 chip?
3) Buy or make a block-off plate - $$ and probably take a few days to get.
Which option would you vote for?
The thing that keeps bugging me is that there should be zero vacuum going to the EGR valve at idle unless the solenoid is bad right? So a bad EGR valve shouldn't affect idle only give a vacuum leak at part throttle cruise. Right now I am just trying to eliminate things in hopes that something will change and I can find the problem.
Any experience or thoughts are appreciated.