Bad MAF?

[TURBOV6]

I never had a MAF failed on my T so I don't know whats the symptoms. Is it the same as the intercooled TR's? I have no scan tools for the hot air.

The symptoms are surging/sputtering while driving and also a few pops here and there. On the intercooled models you can also determin if the MAF is bad by unpluging it to see if it runs better, on the hot air when you unplug it don't run good. I check for trouble codes and showed code 34 (MAF circuit low/no signal) but reset the ECM and showed no codes after running the car. Another question is does it take awhile to show codes after the ECM is reset.

 

[TURBOV6]

I don't know if this is suppose to happen but when I check for trouble codes (jumping the ALDL connector) the IAC is making ticking noises.

 

[TURBOV6]

update

I borrowed a used MAF from a friend but did not know the condition, pluged it in and idle was worse, the other MAF was missing a screen so I removed the one originally on the car, it idle allittle better. What I noticed was when the filter is removed the idle gets worse. But still no code 34?

 

[TURBOV6]

Why can't nobody help me?

Well anyways I worked on the car for a few hours and replace the plugs with CR42TS (I usually use the 43's) and gapped it at .035. Found a tear on the spark plug wire and insulated it temporary, also TPS are good and cleaned out the IAC also. Car is running back to normal, cool I thought I fixed it, drove it around town did some errands and went up a steep hill nailed it a few times then the surgging starts again , no its back to how it was earlier. I borrowed a few MAF's but none of them seem to idle good only one thats drivable is the original MAF. No scantool yet will try to get one tomorrow

 

[Buick From Hell]

Possibilities--Bad MAF of course, especially since you had a trouble code. It's also possible those MAF's you're borrowing are bad (maybe they've been dropped, or??)...try to locate KNOWN WORKING MAF to borrow! As for the trouble codes, the ECM doesn't "wait", it will immediately throw a code the instant it sees a problem. SO, maybe it AIN'T the MAF's? Check the plug connections and all the grounds. Also check the big plug on the ignition module. There's quite a few important items in the same circuit as the MAF -- the ECM power, ignition module power, EGR solenoid, wastegate solenoid, ESC module and fuel-vapor canister; if ANY of these items have a problem, it's possible to affect the OTHER items (which may account for your code 34)...Check around to see if any wires are close to a header or other "hot spots", or maybe shorting out some other way.

Could be a coil problem, have you checked it with an ohmmeter? The ignition module may also be going south...

Anyone?

 

[TURBOV6]

Thank-you

Where will the known bad sopts that might short out that you might know of. There is a new regulator in the alternator and shows good voltage, re did ground to the body and engine ground is good also. As for the coil it meters 12.5 ohms across each coil.

I got a new set of plug wires a new fuel filter and will try it tonight and see what happens. Is there only one fuel filter next to the front cover?

 

[TURBOV6]

I changed the spark plug wire, changed out the coil pack to the 86-87, replaced the fuel filter and cleaned off the crank sensor, started it up and it ran excellent, no miss or stumble. Drove it around 40 miles and everything seem ok no poping under boost borrowed a OTC and had a friend check all the reading and checked out ok. But noticed the EGR showed open? I pulled up on the diaphram to check in changes in idle and it did. Bad EGR solinoid?

 

[Geoff87]

Just sell it already!

But before you do, sell me the NOS kit!

I'll really put it to good use!