i bought this 87 t type about a month ago, and it came with plenty of problems. i have it running smoothly, but it is very sluggish and does not seem to boost at all. i think i found out why -- it throws a code 31 for a bad wastegate solenoid. this isn't really that big of a problem, is it? i mean, if you have a manual boost controller, you don't even need the wastegate actuator, do you? so couldn't i just make a boost controller and not even worry about the code?
bad wastegate solenoid -- can i just bypass it/make a manual boost controller?
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Gary Wells
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--------------------------------henschman said:
You could, but you could also just buy a RJC hybird boost controller for about $ 60 or so, which will accomplish the same thing.
blown okie
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but what about that damn SES light, my 86 gn was the same way before i took it apart to do my clean/paint/engine swap, just figured id fix it when i got my other engine in it running.
Gary Wells
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----------------------------------blown okie said:
SES light is not activated by removing the vacuun lines, leave the wastegate actuator solenoid plugged in and attached to the valve cover. You just don't run the vacuum line. There's also "tuner style" running a vacuum/pressure line between the wastegate actuator and the turbo vacuum outlet.
my stock turbo has hella shaft play and leaks oil anyway, so i'll probably end up getting a new one soon. i'll have to sell a honda or two to be able to afford it though!
so you're from bartlesville huh, blown okie? not too far from here. are there any groups of buick guys around these parts?
so you're from bartlesville huh, blown okie? not too far from here. are there any groups of buick guys around these parts?
blown okie
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Wells said:
ok, i know that unplugging the vac. lines doesn't turn on the SES light I guess my real question is what about the wastegate solenoid what goes "bad", my '86 gn always throws the code 31, even after putting a new solenoid from caspers on it, i guess it would have to be the connector, but i dont know what there is bad w/ the connector. btw, still have mine hooked up the factory way.
and henchmen, pretty well i'm the only Gn nut in these parts, closest GN's to me are in tulsa, most people in this town don't even know what a turbo regal is, and everybody that ever comments on the car always tells me "nice SS" or "nice monte".. go figure.
Gary Wells
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I don't know what goes bad on them, only that they can and do go bad, generally at the least convenient timing. Sorry that I don't know more.
well, the car still won't boost at all, even hooked up tuner style. i guess it could be a whole lot of things -- clogged cat, clogged injectors, cracked manifold, who knows. i guess i'll just get a scantool and go through everything until i have it running right.
and okie... yeah, i get that a lot from people here too -- "why the hell are you building a buick regal?"
and okie... yeah, i get that a lot from people here too -- "why the hell are you building a buick regal?"
i am in a similar boat as you
http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194528
i actually disconnected the wastegate soleniod today and didn't really make any more power. i also check to make sure the actuator rod was adjusted correctly [not keeping the door open a little].
what is a good scan tool to buy? i think that is my next step too!!
http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194528
i actually disconnected the wastegate soleniod today and didn't really make any more power. i also check to make sure the actuator rod was adjusted correctly [not keeping the door open a little].
what is a good scan tool to buy? i think that is my next step too!!
Dennis F
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I have a Hallman manual boost controller in my car and it works perfect. 14 psi is rock solid and spol up is nice.
Dreamcar86
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GN's in OK
There are a few of us running around in Claremore. In fact, I can think of 5 of us. We can relate to the nice "Monte" comments as well. Locals always ask us if we are running nitrous.
henschman said:
There are a few of us running around in Claremore. In fact, I can think of 5 of us. We can relate to the nice "Monte" comments as well. Locals always ask us if we are running nitrous.
Dreamcar86
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blown okie said:
Scrap the solenoid. They are junk anyway, there factory job was to pulsate the boost it is not a real bleedoff. I run a hose directly from the nipple on the turbo housing to the wastegate and it works fine.
The code is almost always present because of a blown ECM SOL fuse.
The way to check: Turn on key, don't start the car.
Using a voltmeter, check the pink/black wire on the red connector of the solenoid.
If you don't see 12 volts, the fuse is out.
If you need to remove the solenoid, use this item.
John
The way to check: Turn on key, don't start the car.
Using a voltmeter, check the pink/black wire on the red connector of the solenoid.
If you don't see 12 volts, the fuse is out.
If you need to remove the solenoid, use this item.
John
"Their" factory job was to increase boost above the base setting of the wastegate actuator, and they did that pretty well, and continue to do that pretty well. The solenoid has a "duty cycle", and it opens and closes, bleeding off pressure from the actuator. To say that the solenoid "pulses the boost" is sort of like saying that an injector "pulses the fuel". Many have run without the solenoid, but it gives some flexibility in controlling boost that you don't get by running the hose straight from turbo to actuator.
chris c -- from looking at your thread, it looks like we have the same problem. my stock tach lights all the way up most of the time too... at idle, it drops a few bars but still shows like 5-6k rpm. plus, my stock boost gauge shows 5 psi all the time, no matter what. my car had also been sitting for years before i bought it. please let me know if you find out anything, and i'll do the same. unfortunately, it will be a while before i can afford a scantool or boost gauge or anything. i'll post this in your thread too in case you don't see this.
one thing about my car -- the turbo has some hellacious shaft play, but the turbine does not hit the sides. does anybody know if the extra friction from bad turbo bearings could keep it from spinning fast enough to boost? kinda like a household electric fan that's going bad? you might check your turbo too chris -- it's not TOO hard to pull off with a bunch of penetrating oil!
one thing about my car -- the turbo has some hellacious shaft play, but the turbine does not hit the sides. does anybody know if the extra friction from bad turbo bearings could keep it from spinning fast enough to boost? kinda like a household electric fan that's going bad? you might check your turbo too chris -- it's not TOO hard to pull off with a bunch of penetrating oil!
machinegun
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control solenoid. One side of connector should have I think 12 volt. Maybe 5 but I think 12. Either way check to make sure one side is hot with the ingintion on. If no voltage wou will get this 31. If voltage is there then back track the other side to the ecm. I am not sure of the ecm plug pinout off the top of my head but do a search and you will find it. One of those two maybe your problem. If not corroded plugs or pins at the ECM are next to look for. Hope this helps.
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