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Before Balck r12 to r134a Conversiuon planning- 88 Ranger STX w/ 80 MC Turbo Buick Questions

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81LimitedT

Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2001
Messages
75
My son has given up on trying to rehab the factory heat/ac system in his Hybrid build 88 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 swap project. As we begin to finish up, He's pulled the entire heat/ac box from the engine compartment and will be creating a flush firewall.

His plan is to use a RestMod Air Bantam -SUltra system under the dash, with a factory 93/4/5 Condenser in front of the radiator and the same system Receiver/Dryer.

RestoMod Air tells him he has to have a R134a Fixed Displacement Compressor to work with their system. Does anyone know of such a compressor that can be retrofit to the v-pulley 80 Buick Draw thru turbo style Compressor mount or an 85 NA 231 compressor mount? OR how to ask the right question to find one?
 
My son has given up on trying to rehab the factory heat/ac system in his Hybrid build 88 Ford Ranger STX 4x4 swap project. As we begin to finish up, He's pulled the entire heat/ac box from the engine compartment and will be creating a flush firewall.

His plan is to use a RestMod Air Bantam -SUltra system under the dash, with a factory 93/4/5 Condenser in front of the radiator and the same system Receiver/Dryer.

RestoMod Air tells him he has to have a R134a Fixed Displacement Compressor to work with their system. Does anyone know of such a compressor that can be retrofit to the v-pulley 80 Buick Draw thru turbo style Compressor mount or an 85 NA 231 compressor mount? OR how to ask the right question to find one?
(We're using an 85 NA block with the 1980 Turbo internals & have both the 80 Turbo and 85 NA Brackets for the double v-belt pulley setup.)
 
so...what is wrong with the pancake/circular style that came on that setup? if functioning it would "compress" as would any compressor. the cab volume to cool is less than half the volume of a gbody so I wouldnt be concerned with it "keeping up". do you not have the one that would have come with the engine? has it been open to the "elements"?
 
so...what is wrong with the pancake/circular style that came on that setup? if functioning it would "compress" as would any compressor. the cab volume to cool is less than half the volume of a gbody so I wouldnt be concerned with it "keeping up". do you not have the one that would have come with the engine? has it been open to the "elements"?
I do have the one that came with the engine, it has been stored in the garage for 20+ years, & It has been open to the elements.
 
I'm cheap but some times that bites me. I'd send it after a rinse out with some oil and maybe a nitrogen flush or ac flush . make sure it turns. those units can get the pistons stuck so it seems to turn but one or more pistons aren't actually "pistoning". so this makes it a crap shoot. your call. if it were me I'd get it all installed. I like to put some compressed air in to see about leaks. this can or could introduce moisture but it can hold a vacuum and yet when pressurized leaks. after I think I have it sealed up I pull a vacuum on it and let that pump run with new oil in it so as not to introduce crap with old oil. once I get a good vac on it I let it sit and make sure it holds that vac. I'm a 152a kinda guy but it seems that has also gotten expensive and 134a is right there when on sale. I like to catch it at the end of summer and stock up. if I was a shop I'd buy in larger quantity vessels but as it is the cans work fine for me. don't be putting liquid in and hydrolock the compressor. lots of fun and real nifty when it starts cooling!
 
also a new drier and orfice tube. I like the first one but I'd have to look back for a part number. I'd have a local place make up your lines with the fancy tube/hose that keeps the smaller 134a molecules in.

sounds like a pretty nifty project. love to see pix.
 
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