bench bleeding master

[87-WE2]

I've been reading up on vacuum swaps since I'm doing one right now. I couldn't find what I needed with a search, so I figured i'd fire my question at you in the hopes of getting some good advice.

as I said I'm doing a vacuum swap. I bought the conversion kit from gbodyparts. it came with the master already bolted to the booster. i didn't separate the two pieces to "bench" bleed as it looked like the thing would be level when I got it bolted in. well, it's not. I went ahead and "bench" bled it in the car. Does the MC need to be perfectly level in order to be bled 100% correct? If so, I figure I have two options. first would be to remove the master, mount in a vise & do a REAL bench bleed. OR jack the back end of the car up so I don't have to pull the MC.

Do i need to do either of these?

Also, when doing the "in-car bench bleed", my wife was pushing the pedal. As she pushed to the floor, fluid kept squirting upwards out of the rear chamber of the reservoir. if she went too fast, it would squirt up like a fountain. is this normal??

Thanks for any help or advice you might be able to offer.

Dan

 

[Chuck Leeper]

U using the short hoses and plastic fittings to bleed?
As long as the ports don't come uncovered, the cyl being off level won't hurt.
The fountain effect is normal.

 

[87-WE2]

thank you. yes, i used a bleeding kit that included the fittings that screw into the ports with hoses that go back into the reservoir. I appreciate the advice.

 

[sam87]

Push the pedal slowly & not all the way to the floor. If the MC is good, might take 5 minutes to get the air out. Some have said it took longer. If you try for 30 minutes & still have air, could be bad MC. I tried 3 rebuilts & 2 new MC from auto parts stores before getting a good one.

 

[87-WE2]

Thanks for the advice. I'm close to being done - everything's installed and I bled the brakes, but I think I still have some air in the lines somewhere. A short test drive in the neighborhood last night revealed that the brakes work, and they eventually lock, but the pedal is pretty close to the floor. Pedal feels spongy.

Also, in a panic stop the pedal is hard at first but then gets softer. I'm going to check my vacuum level tonight & see what I have at the intake. If it's low, I'll think about an elec. vacuum pump. If it's 18 inches or more, I'm going to try it without the inline filter between the intake and booster to see if that'll have any effect.

Thanks to all for their advice.

 

[John Larkin]

If you press steadily and firmly there should only be a sizzle of bubbles on the surface. I copied and pasted an article years ago. Here is a link to most of it:

http://www.t6p.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6389

 

[TexasT]

That kind of pedal would make me nervous. Are you clamping and holding the "button" on the proportioning valve while you are bleeding? Also is the fluid coming out of your lines clean? I would bleed until I got clean fluid out to get the old stuff out of there. Just make sure you keep topping off the master cylinder so you don't "run it dry". If you do, then you get to start over as you have introduced air into the system again.

 

[chopped39]

Go get some line locks from Auto Zone. Thease are plastic or even steel pinch off pliers. Install one on each hose and see how pedal feels. If pedal feels good have someone remove one front line clamp and see if pedal drops if it doesnt drop pull another one. When pedal drops thats where your air is. If pedal drops with line locks on the master has air in it or its bad
If you have an air compressor buy the one man bleeder from Zone. Matco and the rest sell them as well. They are like 50 bucks You can use it to bleed tha master and the brakes. It uses vacuum so you dont have to mess with prop valve. Hope this works here is the Corwell bleeder number pbt70850 google it . I have the Matco version and it works great. I have the Phoenix bleeder that works great but it was to much money.