BEWARE!!!! MobilOne Filter users

[HellOnWheels]

FYI.

Doing an oil and filter change yesterday I found yet ANOTHER MobilOne oil filter had come apart inisde, if you remember I posted a few weeks back that one had come apart.

Both of the filters were part number M1-201 and both had a few miles shy of 3,000 miles, and both were used with MobilOne Synthetic 15-50 wt. oil.

I emailed MobilOne and they were supposed to send me an "enviorment friendly" package/carton to send them the first damaged filter...but the carton never came! I thought at the time that maybe it could have been a dud from the factory?? However, having it happen with 2 filters is enough for me to NOT use the MobilOne oil filter.

HellOnWheels

 

[gnfanatic]

Do you have your oil bypass blocked?? what weight oil?? If you do thats the reason, they cant handle the hgih pressure. I got mine blocked and use the purolator l300005 (i THINK THATS THE NUMBER). THATS THE ONLY ONE THAT DODNT NOT COLLAPSE ON ME. I also had good luckj with the amzoil ones, but a bitch to find.

Ralph

 

[HellOnWheels]

BEWARE MobilOne users

Ralph,

Yes, I do have the bypass blocked but the oil pressure never goes over ~60 psi at cold startup, and holds 43-44 psi when warmed crusing down the freeway. I run the 15-50 MobilOne oil, but I don't see why the filters should come apart with just 60 psi!!

I've used a number of oil filters before settling on the MobilOne and never had a filter problem before.

I'm going to give the Baldwin filter a try and see what happens.

HOW

 

[gnfanatic]

I understand what yo are saying. But that is the reason, even though they say there filters can hold 100 psi for some reason it all depends on certain situaations, I collapsed wix,napa gold,fram,Mobil one. Purolator .amzoil are the only ones holding up. I hope you are using the big sizes, biggy filter kit. I never used a baldwin but could of sworn someone on here collapsed one??
Ralph
by the way, did ypou take you oil cooler lines off??

my oil pressure is 75 cold
35 hot at idle with 10w 30 and some Lucas

 

[turbosam6]

No offense bro, but out of probably hundreds of members who use Mobil1 filters (myself included), I'd look at the common denominator- Your car. I have 70+ psi startup and have never damaged a filter. Also my bypass is not blocked. Since no one here but you is having problems like this, maybe its not the filters?

 

[HellOnWheels]

Originally posted by turbosam6
No offense bro, but out of probably hundreds of members who use Mobil1 filters (myself included), I'd look at the common denominator- Your car. I have 70+ psi startup and have never damaged a filter. Also my bypass is not blocked. Since no one here but you is having problems like this, maybe its not the filters?

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If not the filter then what? Even with the bypass blocked-pressure is pressure right? Besides, how many people take a good look at the INSIDE of the filter after removing, very few I would guess-if more did I'm sure the same results that I've found could be found?

The filters are not collasping, there are blowing the filter media/metal "mesh" into the center of the filter.

The front oil cover is port matched and polished for improved flow, using stock oil pump set to specs.

Blocked the bypass for safety reason that if a bearing should let go most of it-if not all would be caught by the filter possiably saving the engine from total destruct?

Thanks for the replies.

HOW

 

[gnfanatic]

"The filters are not collasping, there are blowing the filter media/metal "mesh" into the center of the filter".

Thats considered collapsing. I jsut use this particular filter, let the car warm up tp point it is down to the 35 mark at idle and then I leave.

Good Luck
Ralph

 

[FlyinGN]

addin my .02..

My car is 90 psi cold start up, 50 psi cold idle. Warmed up its 40 psi idle and I have NEVER had any problem with any filter I have ran.. I now run Purolator Pure One..

 

[gnfanatic]

FlyinGN, is your bypass blocked??

Ralph

 

[FlyinGN]

no its not..

 

[Maltman]

By-pass blocked, remote oil kit, oil cooler lines intact....no problems here with: AC, Valvoline, & now a Mobil1 (today actually).

Eitherway, I've seen 60-80 psi cold (different springs) and never anything less than 30 while driving warm.


However, I change my oil often (every 1000) miles...maybe that helps....but it costs more

 

[JDEstill]

pressure may be pressure, but the pressure you are seeing on your gauge is *after* the filter, going into the block. The problem is you have high pressure before the filter, and that is why you are having filter problems.

With the bypass blocked, all oil has to go through the filter. There is a big pressure difference across the filter, this is needed to push the oil through it. While you've got 60 psi coming out of it, you might have 90 or 100 psi going into it, and when the difference gets too big, that's when you've got problems. And of course when the oil is cold, or the filter is too small, thats when you get the highest pressure difference.

I'd suggest running the biggest filter you can (got the Biggie kit installed?), and maybe a little thinner oil. 10W-40 will give you a lower pressure drop across the filter than 15W-50 will for example. The only other thing is to reduce the oil flow through the filter, lower flow = lower pressure drop, but that was the job of the bypass, which is now blocked. You could unblock it, though personally I have mine blocked and I think things are better this way. Though I wouldn't think so if my oil filters were collapsing!

Oh yeah... and don't get the revs up until the car is warm and the oil pressure starts coming down! I won't let mine get over 2500 rpm or so until my oil pressure at idle gets down to 40 psi or so. Although I have to admit that I didn't see any signs of collapsing when I was doing cam break-in, and I was up around 3000 for that.

John

 

[QKRNYRS]

bypass blocked

I've blocked my bypass as well. And on the 1st startup with a Purolator oil filter it blew it out and collapsed it in a matter of about 20 seconds of running.

Here is what happens when you block the bypass..... You have cold oil that is thick being forced through a paper filter media. It is the pressure BEFORE the filter that is collapsing the filters, not the pressure that is AFTER the filter that you are reading on your gage. Normally the bypass is open on cold starts or if the filter gets plugged. Now with no bypass, it collapses the filter. I switched to the Fram HP2 for use with the "Biggie" adaptor. They can handle the pressure. Another one that I have used with the same construction is the K&N filter. Look at the construction compared to a regular filter next time.... one has a 100psiburst and one is 500psi. On the cheaper ones, the base is stamped sheet metal, on the better ones, the filter is ~1/8" metal.

Hope this helps..

 

[buickboy]

Have used Mobil 1 filters for several years in a mostly racing application. Bypass open. Run semi-synthetic 10W30 Valvoline. Never had one minutes problem. Cold, pressure goes to 80 and idle stays around 15-20. They are very proud of their filters, but I will still use them until it is proven they are not able to do the job.
Mitch

 

[Silver 6]

The Buick power manual suggests plugging the bypass for high performance use, but they also recommend you install a dual remote filter setup to handle the flow.

The bypass in our V6 opens at only about 10psi when new and no body has a clue what it is down to after 15 years of use. It was put in there for the sole purpose of protecting the filter and there after the motor.

When we first did the "Biggie," it was because Lonnie Diers had blocked his bypass and kept blowing the PF52 sized filters, no matter what brand. He did the beta testing for a PF24 AC filter and had no more probems running Mobile1 15X50. I later updated the "Biggie" kits to include a PureOne PL20033 because they have the best drainback valves I found. That filter is no longer in their inventory.

There are differences in the filter media from a standard AC/Wix/Purlator and an AC Gold, Wix Gold, PureOne, MobileOne filter. The standard filters have a rating of about 25 microns which is the standard GM spec for a repalcement filter. The premium filters go to a 10 micron filter media. And generally lots more of it.

I understand the desire to block the bypass, Lonnie was real tired of replacing bearings from cam failures. He wanted all the oil filtered all the time. But you have to allow for the increased flow accross the filter.

I would recommend:

1. Try a standard (25 micron) filter of the same size. And the largest one that fits your current setup.
2. Install a larger filter upgrade.
3. The ultimate would be a dual filter remote system, as is recommended in the power manual.

 

[JeffG]

These guys are spot on. It's the pressure differential that is killing your filters. I had the same problem. I bet a change to 10/30 would solve your problem, even though I would not be comfortable with just that. I switched to a Canton spin on stock location filter.

http://www.cmfilters.com/spin-on.cfm

Flows great and no worries of puking a filter seal or collapsing the media inside.