You can type here any text you want

Billet caps or Girdle

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

86Nick

Not your Grandpas' regal
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
489
Just wondering what is better to use during rebuilding the bottom end. Is it best to replace the main caps with billet or install a Block girdle?
 
Caps & Girdle

I already have a Girdle and was just wonder if I should keep it or sell and buy caps.
 
As I understand it....

10's and lower=girdle

10's and up=caps....

But if you already have it use it...which one do you have? If its the piece from RJC racing you are good to go...
 
I have had two engines (3.8 & 4.1) with girdles and no leaks :smile: and one engine with all steel caps. Messing with the girdles are always a pain in the a$$ for me :( so it's steel main caps for me from here on. :biggrin:

You only need to do the two center steel caps or 3 if you want to add the front cap for not much more; but the stock rear cap is beefy enough IMHO. :smile: It's the stock crank that starts flexing under real power that starts the process of taking the engine out, so a stronger steel crank is what is really needed which ever way you go to beef up the bottom end IMHO.
 
There was a thread not too long ago about this very same subject. I'm running an RJC girdle and stock main caps on my new stroker motor. A little birdie that built my engine says steel main caps are worthless and pointless with a girdle. The girdle is what holds everything together and keeps the block/caps/crank from flexing. Good down to the 9's. I think if you are on an extreme budget (which you shouldn't be if you are messing with these cars), two billet caps alone will be fine but be careful about how much power you make.
 
One of the engine builders would have to answer that. I'm pretty sure anything is possible, but cracking a factory cap with a girdle is not going to happen unless you are detonating the crap out of the motor and or are making serious power (800+ hp). All the caps do essentially is hold the crank in place. If everything is machined perfectly, rotating assembly balanced, and the girdle is holding everything in place, I'm not sure it matters what material the caps are. Anyone ever crack or break a stock cap with a girdle???:confused:

I should mention, that I was told that it costs way more labor money and machine work to do steel caps with a girdle. Remember you have to machine the steel caps to fit perfect. Using stock caps with the motor they came on have been already factory machined and such. So you are probably talking another grand or so just to buy, machine, and fit steel caps with a girdle.
 
I have actually seen a block split in half but go around the steel caps. After that I decided to always go with a girdle.
Our engine builder concurs. He won't even build one of these without it. Cheap insurance. Especially if you already have it. Stock caps are ok with the girdle.
 
I wouldn't worry about anything. Everyone's cars are detonation free. Riiiiiiight???;) :D

If you detonate it hard enough, ANYTHING will break! I don't care if it is made out of titanium. If it was created by humans, it can be destroyed by humans.
 
I guess it doesn't really matter, but I think its odd how many people say the crank flexes and break the caps because the caps support the crank not vice-versa.

There have been several in the 9's with stock caps and a girdle, so I'd say it's a proven setup.
 
I ran my TSM car all year with stock caps and a girdle. About 60 mid nine second passes. Steel caps with a girdle is a waste of time and money imo.
 
I ran my TSM car all year with stock caps and a girdle. About 60 mid nine second passes. Steel caps with a girdle is a waste of time and money imo.

I guess that is your opinion for what it's worth but that won't necessarly
apply if you ever get to the power level to go 150+. That's a fact not an opinion.
 
Back
Top