blower motor won't work

[TURBOTIMMER]

Good fuse, new motor. Tried it on all speeds. Jumped the motor directly to the battery, and it works fine. Changed the resistor and the little 4 wire metal box thingy that bolts to the heater box. No go.

 

[rodman99999]

Could be speed selector on the heater control(in dash) or the ground wire at the motor itself. Sometimes that wire will corrode internally, and still look good from the outside. Try jumping the blower motor to another chassis ground. Did you check for voltage at the end motor end of the wire harness, with the car running and heater speed selector on "high"?

 

[turbojd]

Unplug the connections to the relay and check for any corrosion or crust, clean it up if any signs of rust and try that.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

update. turns out the main power wire (brown) has no power. I pulled all the fuses, and they look good, so I'm not sure what the problem is. I ran another wire from an ignition terminal in the fuse box. Its only a temporary fix, but no heat in single digit temps is no fun.

 

[rodman99999]

The brown wire just goes directly to the 25A A/C fuse. Sometimes these fuses can look good, BUT...... The same wire/fuse powers the trunk release. If you've got one: does it work?

 

[mturbo87]

Plug next to the heater box, engine compartment.

 

[whitecobra98]

i had a similar problem..the wires were all corroded...there was a thread on here a while back that pointed me in that direction...i replaced all the things you did...mine worked on everything but high

 

[salvageV6]

Double check the fuse panel for that slot, gets power in run only.

Brown wire has a connector C219 behind the RH side of the inst. panel right of the blower switch and control unit.

If unplugged it won't feed the blower switch.

Power into and out of the fuse panel on the A/C fuse in RUN would indicate that connector.

However if you have a trunk release that would still work as the connector is after that which powers the control head switch.

So a few simple tests are in order, then a looksee on the right side of the control ahead up top attached to the harness a one cavity connector, brown wires both sides.

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
On carbed cars, the 4 way connector at the back of the motor often gets overheated, causing an open circuit. I assume this will be very similar on turbo cars, as well.

 

[TURBOTIMMER]

The brown wire just goes directly to the 25A A/C fuse. Sometimes these fuses can look good, BUT...... The same wire/fuse powers the trunk release. If you've got one: does it work?

That was it. Fuse looked good. I replaced it, and now there's power. Wow that was alot of work for a .25 cent fuse. Thanks for all your replies, guys. great help and info on this board.......

 

[rodman99999]

Glad it was a simple fix for ya(after all)!