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brake bleeding problems (kinda long)

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tb3

elbows & a$$holes
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
2,716
ok, I'm about to loose what little sanity I have left, I've reviewed many previous threads, and have ran out of things to check.

stock 86 t type, it has been converted to vaccuum master cylinder. I'll be very descriptive to try and speed learning curve.

I drove the car only once before pulling the rearend to get it overhauled, the brakes where working, but didn't feel like they where working as good as they should. I had pulled the rearend for other reasons, not because of the brakes. (thought I had better mention that or you guys might really think I was a ding dong

I reinstalled rearend and went to bleed the brakes, I started bleeding in sequence from the wheel closest to the master cylinder to the farthest, (which I now know is wrong, I shoud have done it opposite, but I didn't know that till now.) I could get the fronts to bleed with good solid pedal, but couldn't get the rears to bleed (was getting very very little fluid to come out of the bleeders, and pedal would hardly move). I have blead the brakes on many cars and have never had problems, so I figured my combination valve might not be working. I cracked the line on it going to the rear...nothing. the valve was the cast steel one and very corroded. I ordered a new brass ac delco one from postons and installed. Same results. I then cracked the lines right off the master cylinder. The line for front brakes was working great (as I already knew since front brakes felt great), but the rear line wasn't pushing anything. So I figured the master cylinder was plugged somehow, (the fluid was a little dirty in the resevoir, and the whole vaccuum master cylinder assembly looks like it probably came from a another gbody car, another words, not new.) So I ordered a brand new master cylinder and installed. I blead the cylinder per the instructions.... until all air was purged from the clear hoses that came with the kit (routes the fluid back into both resevoirs). I then hooked up lines and blead in the same sequence from wheel closest, to farthest away,... and still same results. So I started doing some reading, and learned I should be bleeding them opposite due to the way the combination valve works. I had thought maybe I need to depress the button on the valve while I bleed since it says I may need to do that in my 87 buick service manual, but according to some previous post here, lots of you have never messed with that valve and blead ok.
I also checked the rear pistons to make sure they where free and clear and not pinched or slanted.
My 87 buick service manual says that in a conventional brake system, (disc in front, drum in back) I should bleed from farthest away from master cyinder first. Since my front brakes where free of air and firm, I figured I should crack the lines and pump them and put some air in them so they won't build pressure, and the combination valve will instantly send fluid to the rear. So I did that, and started to bleed from the farthest wheel away first, and got very little fluid with the brake pedal not going down hardly at all when I blead, same as before. I should also note, that when I went to bleed the right rear after I had installed the master cylinder, (before I knew of the bleeding sequence) that I got lots of fluid, and pedal went all the way to the floor, but when I went to the left rear, I couldn't get it to bleed.
I then went back to the combination valve and cracked the line going to the rear (to make sure that my rear lines wheren't maybe restricted or clogged somewhere), but it wouldn't bleed either.
So now I don't know what the heck to do. I've changed everything in the freakin system.
I have kept the resevior full, at all times, its never went empty.
I have put the cap back on, after every time I would top it off after bleeding.
I've never started the car, according to previous post, you'll always get a better blead system if you don't.
I have been correctly bleeding it, with one person pushing and holding brake pedal while I tighten the bleeder at each wheel, so's not to let air back in the system.
thats about all I can think of. anybody have any ideas? This car will be used as a daily driver. I want all 4 corners to be working as they should.
 
Try cracking the bleeder and just letting it gravity bleed...I've always had great results. Haven't used a helper in years.

HTH, Rob
 
but I don't think thats my problem. I'm not getting fluid (or at least hardly any at all) to the back brakes.

I've just pulled the rear brake line off of the car. The one going from the mc to the combination valve (the larger one), to make sure it wasn't restricted. Its not. I then decided to push on brakes with that line off. I could barely get the pedal to move, and there was no fluid shooting out of the mc. wtf??? I then decided to try and rebleed the mc. So I hook up the kit, (car is level), and pushed the pedal slowly about 50-60 times and watched from the drivers seat. (for some reason, the pedal now goes to the floor (as it should) with the front brake side unhooked? The front brake resevoir blead rather quickly just fine, I can't get the rear brake resevoir to bleed. I keep seeing these real tiny fizzy bubbles. 50-60 times isn't enough? Do I need to be more patient? (I've attached a pic to show exact setup)
Surely the vacuum booster doesn't have anything to do with this? When I push on the brakes while I'm bleeding mc... I noticed the bubbles still traveling the entire duration of pedal travel until it hits the stop. So that means everything is ok on that end, correct?
 
New master cylinder or refurbed? Maybe it has a bad internal seal? Maybe a kinked or pluged rear brake line? Just to refresh all of us...the front reservoir cavity and master cylinder line goes to the rear brakes. Remove the line from m/c and the prop valve and blow some air through it.(Careful of paint) Got to be plugged or bad m/c, otherwise we'd have fluid. Start at the top and work to the bottom...you'll find the culprit.

Rob
 
I can help!

The problem is in the combination Valve. Basically you are fighting it. When you first bleed the system, (starting at front,) you made the valve think the bake line was broken so the valve stopped all fluid going there. After installing a new unit, and starting in the back it happened again.

Solution:
From what I am getting from your post you cannot get fluid out of the front?

Jack up the front of the car making it higher than the rear. Take off the master cylinder cap. Open both front bleeders, and let it gravity bleed. (This may take a bit.) While waiting for the fluid to flow take a small hammer and tap the combo valve. Once you are getting go flow from the fronts you can bleed them. TO MAKE SURE YOU DON'T KICK THE VALVE AGAIN MAKE SURE WHOEVER IS PUSHING THE BRAKE FOR YOU PLACES ONE FOOT UNDER THE BRAKE PEDAL. DO NOT PUSH IT COMPLETELY TO THE FLOOR! (The foot will stop this from happing.)

Let me know how it goes.

Evaddave
 
Thanks for replys.
I can't get fluid out the rear brakes.
I'm clear that the front (most forward) is the rear brake resevoir and line.
In the picture I've posted, I've got the mc bleeder kit installed. If I've blead all the air out of it, then remove those bleeder lines, then press the pedal, I should have fluid streaming out those two ports, right? For some reason, I'm not getting anything out of the rear brake port now (except for when I bleed it with the bleeder kit.) :confused: I know I got a lot of fluid that one time that I was bleeding the right rear brake, so it must be intermittant. It's a brand new mc, not refurbished, but, could be faulty. I'm going to crack the bleeders, tap the combo valve, top it off and let it sit for the night. I'll try again in the morning. I've lost my helper for the night, she's complaing that her legs going to be sore tommorow. :rolleyes:
 
sounds like the prop valve is stuck.did the system run dry when rear end was out? I have taken prop valves apart before for this problem. the pressure differential is stuck .if that valve moves towards the back your not going to get fluid . it blocks off rear port. have someone push on pedal but not all the way down while you tap on valve with hammer. dont beat the crap out of it.tap it on the side of valve right below the eletrical connector. then let it gravity bleed .try it a couple of times untill you get fluid. it should work .other wise you will have to pull valve off and take it apart and clean and reinstall. if there was alot of contamination make sure you flush system real good. the copper lining from inside lines wears away and turns to sludge . so you want all that flushed out. good luck
 
Depress button on Propotion valve while bleeding

anyway, the valve is a GM valve, code HJ, last 4 digits are 9419, which would make it the cheaper [delco]1353 valve (not surprising), This valve is listed primarily for cars with larger rear brakes.... 15/16 cyls with 9.5 or 11" drums, and later 80s cars with the smaller front brakes.

i've not determined yet if it has a residual valve or not.
more to come.

edit: no residual valve. it does have a feature that blocks off pressure to the rear brakes in case of failure.
 
fixed! you guys have no idea what the last 35 hours have been like for me. (well,.. you probably do). I thought maybe I had just missed some post on this, but I can't find anywhere procedure wise: gm service manual, chilton, gnttype.net, here, etc., that is concerning the problem I had.

I went out and bought a vacuum/brake bleader kit since I lost my helper. I then cracked every line and blew threw it with compressed air to make sure I was getting no restriction. Everything checked out ok, the rear lines where a little nasty, but they cleared out. I then went through and reblead everything starting with the master cylinder, down to the combo valve, out to the cylinders. Fronts blead great, I initially got good fluid flow from the rear of the combo valve (going to rear wheels), but then it would get really restricted, and then allow nothing (like its been doing to me as mentioned before in previous post.) So then I was confident it was my combo valve. I tried bleeding with the button pressed, nope. I then tried bleeding while tapping on it lightly with a fiber glass hammer per chopped39. nope. I then took the front pressure valve off the combo valve, checked to make sure spring, valve and everything was ok and moved freely, reinstalled, then tried again. nope. At this point I'm ready to push this car into the lake. :( I've replaced and checked and rechecked everything in the system. I bit the bullet, swallowed my pride and called my dad. He is retired general motors tooling engineer of 38 years. He came over, reviewed the system, and suggested we bypass the combo valve, we did, and got same results I've been getting. So now our only culprit must be the master cylinder. I showed him the old one I took off. He took it over to the bench and put it in a vise. I pushed in on the cylinder with butt end of a hammer while he checked for flow. We only where getting flow from the front brake resevoir. (which made sense pertaining to my problem I had). but how come I coud get both resevoirs to flow and bleed just fine when I blead the master cylinder on the car? He got out some paper and started drawing a schematic of sequence of events that the 2 pistons and 2 springs do as they travel through the manifold of the mc. I laid down on the floor and went to sleep, I've been awake since 5 am previous morning. About 10 minutes later he gets up and says he's found the problem. He had taken some measurements of the differant openings (holes) in the cylinder with a steel rule, and had determined that the rear brakes would never get proper metering of fluid/pressure and would cause liquid lock if there wasn't a specific sequence of filling the mc when bleeding the brakes, IF: the master cylinder had been removed and emptied of fluid. We then returned to the car and completely emptied the new resevoir I had installed. Filled the rear brake resevoir with fluid, and blead it with the front brake mc line off. Then blead the rear brakes at the cylinders. Success!! Finally! they started bleeding like the should. He then attached front brake mc line, then filled that resevoir, and we blead the front brakes. I've got no spongyness, and very little travel with the pedal before all four lock up. (their probably going to be a little too touchy now. :rolleyes: )
He said he would explain it better to me later, but had to get going, its sunday and hes a minister.
Is this just common knoledge I should've known? There was nothing said of it with the new mc instructions, or any of my manuals?

Dad said hes surprised theres nothing mentioned of this on this board if this is such a popular brake mc conversion. Did I just miss this info somewhere? Wouldn't surprise me if I did. Maybe this info will help somebody else. hope so. I certainly feel alot better.
I attached some pics that I just shot about midway through cleanup. I'm tired as hell, and in a goofy mood, so figured why not

If any of you guys who have responded in this thread needs a used good working vacuum mc resevoir/manifold, I'll send it to you for free. I really really appreciate it when people try to help me out online.
 
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