broken bolt easy out

[trixdout]

Does anyone have a recommendation for an easy out product (left handed drill bits) that I could buy that won't snap? I'm reading too many reviews on home depot products that won't cut it.

My problem is this, last week with a buddy of mine we were going to bolt up the 3" downpipe. I didn't remove the crossover pipe and didn't cut the piece of the floor board that the dp hits (being that I unnecessarily cut the downpipe earlier a week before). Yea I know, stupid me. Learning from my mistakes young. So anyways I made another stupid mistake and put red loctite in the bolt holes. You may say it wasn't a stupid idea, but the next statement will tell you it was. I was late for work already and my buddy had to go to work as well so we put the gn back in the garage without finishing up the downpipe.

A week later, Monday, I snapped one of the top bolt of the downpipe. Thankfully it's sticking out quite a bit, can't seem to find the snapped off head, probably on the front crossmember somewhere under the engine. I'm assuming the thread wasn't clean and the loctite made it worse. When I was tightening the bolt I legit had to use a hammer with heavy blows on a very strong allen key to turn the bolts in and they weren't even pressing on the downpipe, at least an 1/8" gap of the back of the bolt head that mate to the base plate of the downpipe. Anyways, so yea..... I'm an idiot and need a very strong easy out set, like industrial set. Also maybe I could use the same set to tap out the stupid in me.

 

[Daniel Jost]

Man the first thing that comes to mind is welding a nut on and getting that bolt red hot. This not only will loosen the loctite but it will also give you something to grip on as well as help the bolt come out easier. Trust me I would not in any case recommend using an easy-out unless you were removing a bolt that the head was broke off because it was over-tightened, not because its rusted in or cross threaded, and so on... Just think of it as you broke off the bolt and now you are looking to put an even smaller but harder easy-out in and try and get it to work... It is usually a easy way to really get your a$$ in a bind when now you have broken carbide in the hole..

,Dan

 

[John Larkin]

The broken bolt is on the turbo correct? The first time I removed a turbo elbow a bolt snapped on me too, it had never been removed and was rusted in there. I took the turbo to a local NAPA store that had a machine shop internally and they removed it plus tapped all the holes for me for $25. No fuss no muss and had it ready in a day.

 

[SS502]

Man the first thing that comes to mind is welding a nut on and getting that bolt red hot. This not only will loosen the loctite but it will also give you something to grip on as well as help the bolt come out easier. Trust me I would not in any case recommend using an easy-out unless you were removing a bolt that the head was broke off because it was over-tightened, not because its rusted in or cross threaded, and so on... Just think of it as you broke off the bolt and now you are looking to put an even smaller but harder easy-out in and try and get it to work... It is usually a easy way to really get your a$$ in a bind when now you have broken carbide in the hole..

,Dan

X2, an "easy out" isn't the route I'd take on what your describing. Where are you located? If you don't know of a local welding shop, maybe someone near you on this board does. But I've had success over the past with broken head bolts doing the welded nut with the threads almost flush to the block. You, having a lot of thread, will give the welder more bite for the metals to melt together, plus the heat will take care of the loctite.
Just my opinion.

 

[NorEaster]

Weld a nut, about the best way. Also can drill out the center of the bolt to relieve it.

 

[TRICKSIXPA]

Broken a couple of bolts here on the exhaust housing on the turbo and stock elbow. Welding a nut on is the best way but since I don't have a welder...I've just grinded down the bolt using my 4" grinder to the housing and used my set of good carbite drill bits and its made quick work of the remaining bolt stuck in the housing.
Then I bust out my cheap harbor freights tap set and clean up the hole.
I would definitely recommend getting a tap and die set and cleaning up the treads anytime your installing a downpipe or exhaust elbow
sounds like you might have crossed the threads it should not be that hard to turn in a bolt.

 

[trixdout]

I'm located in Northern New Jersey. A fellow member recommended a place in Pompton Plains. The shop did work on his TR and a bunch of other cars of his. So I might just go there now that I have two issues to take car off.

I'm located in Northern New Jersey. A fellow member recommended a place in Pompton Plains. The shop did work on his TR and a bunch of other cars of his. So I might just go there now that I have two issues to take car off.

You sure it wasn't that difficult to put in the bolt thanks to the red loctite I put in there and left it to dry for a week then put in the bolt? I had another bolt with the same issue, as in took quite an amount of force to screw it in, but I managed not to rip off the head.

 

[getdowngranny]

Here you go.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low-profile/p-00952166000P

Place the tightest fitting one on it and itll either break some more or come right off. Should come right off.

 

[pacecarta]

heat the housing with a torch and spin it out with vice grips
if theres not enough to grab put a nut over and weld in the hole
short of that grind it flat drill it and retap for m8x1.25

in the future run the car for about two minutes before you attempt to remove down pipe bolts

 

[bison]

If you dont have access to a welder to weld a nut on then remove the turbo and take it to a machine shop. They can remove it. Or you could send it to me and ill remove it. Id advise against easy outs since breaking one off will create a whole new set of problems. The method you used to torque that bolt will probably prevent the vise grip/heat method from working. If you send it to me i'll mill the bolt down flush, center drill it and drill straight through using a bridgeport. The remainder of the bolt will come out like a thread insert.

 

[trixdout]

heat the housing with a torch and spin it out with vice grips
if theres not enough to grab put a nut over and weld in the hole
short of that grind it flat drill it and retap for m8x1.25

in the future run the car for about two minutes before you attempt to remove down pipe bolts

I was putting the bolts in.

If you dont have access to a welder to weld a nut on then remove the turbo and take it to a machine shop. They can remove it. Or you could send it to me and ill remove it. Id advise against easy outs since breaking one off will create a whole new set of problems. The method you used to torque that bolt will probably prevent the vise grip/heat method from working. If you send it to me i'll mill the bolt down flush, center drill it and drill straight through using a bridgeport. The remainder of the bolt will come out like a thread insert.

Ended up going to a shop another member on here recommended for a different task I needed done, so I got both jobs done in one shot.

THANK YOU EVERYONE! I got a tons of tips from you guys that I can use for the future.