Bypassing the Heater Core???

[Realspool]

My Heater core went bad and I do not intend to replace it any time soon.I know there are the 2 thick hoses that lead to it.What kind of clamp would seal one hose at a time.I realize i have to seal the other line as well. Can Anyone tell me what type of clamp or any easier method to block it off and seal both hoses one at a time or together.Thanks for replies!

 

[Realspool]

Oh yeah do I have to drain the radiator first?

 

[Hawaiian Turbo]

I would drain the rad down some. I believe it's a 5/8 and a 3/4 plug. There is one on the top of the water pump, and one on the intake. It's just a rubber plug and a hose clamp. You could use a brass one for the intake for better assurance, but since you'll be changing the core later, I'd go with the rubber ones.

 

[Realspool]

So I can't block it off at the end where the fire wall is?I have to block it off where the hose starts at the beginning?I got a feeling its going to be a bitch to find 2 rubber plugs at these auto stores.Thanks for the reply. Ray

 

[Red Regal T]

You could remove the plumbing that runs on the intake. Just put a pipe plug in the in take manifold and put another pipe plug in the hose coming off the water pump and clamp it.

 

[Realspool]

Put a plug into the intake manifold.I am going to have to drive this car.Doesn't putting a rubber plug in the intake manifold prevent the coolant to cool the engine and do its job and also the water pump?

 

[Realspool]

I know where you mean now i could block it off there too.Some guys make a loop at the end that means disconnecting the 2 heater core lines from the core and splicing in to them.Thats what confused me for a second.One question on the heavy steel pipe line that runs along the manifold.Should i put a rubber plug before that metal pipe or right where it comes out from the intake manifold? Theres alot of different places to block it off it seems.Thanks for replies guys!

 

[49-blues]

They sell a special coupling in the auto parts stores exactly for bypassing the core- one end is 5/8 s and the other is 3/4-you just put the two hoses togeter with clamps to by pass the core. i keep one in my tool box, had to use it three different times on three different cars. they re $8.00 - $10.00. I actually lent it out one time and it took two years to get it back! you might be able to make your own with 5/8 pipe nipple and 3/4 with a reducing bushing. HTH

 

[Red Regal T]

I didn't say anything about rubber plugs. What I'm saying is screw in a brass pipe plug into the front runner of the intake where the heater plumbing goes in. Then plug the curved hose that comes off the water pump with a brass plug and use a hose clamp to finish it off. You don't have to run one line to the other.

 

[Realspool]

i thought i misunderstood you there.The one line is to the intake(directly) manifold and take the plug out of the intake there.Is it 5/8 or 3/4? The one to the water pump 5/8 or 3/4? doesn't have to have threads right,just needs to be clamped tight at the end of the hose right. I am going to use the brass pipe plugs for safety.

 

[Realspool]

I forgot to ask.Do i use that Teflon tape with the pipe plug to the manifold?Im a real beginner with these cars.

 

[salvageV6]

Yes you do use teflon tape with pipe plugs, any size ones with NPT threads.

I would do what 49 Blues said and hit NAPA and just join the two hoses together with a coupler and clamps.

You could get a plastic 3/4" coupler if you can't find the step down one to 5/8" and get the hose over it also.

Two clamps and you are done.

 

[Realspool]

Thanks salvage,i didn't see the post for 49 blue,I think it is alot easier to couple the hoses like you guys suggest.I just hope Napa has the coupler.The coupler are metal of course but if they don't have metal plastic would be strong durable enough?.Thanks for all the posts guys!

 

[salvageV6]

They make them out of glass filled nylon molded stuff.

Same crap they make intakes out of now.

I use the NAPA T's for my water cooled turbo line couplers and they work fine.

Made for automotive use, stainless steel or brass, would be stronger and better but you probably won't find them easily.

 

[Realspool]

I just got the bypass plug from Napa today.It was a plastic type coupler 5/8 3/4.The guy said thats what there made for to couple and bypass the heater core.I guess as long as it works, i don't need the brass.Is there a problem with plastic?Just wondering alot of guys talking about different makes of couplers.

 

[salvageV6]

As long as you don't use High Torque T bolt clamps on the hoses the plastic should last a good 10 years I would hope.

Plan on running mine all winter and all summer for the turbo water feed system.

I wouldn't want my intake manifold made out of plastic however.

 

[Realspool]

Yeah i was wondering when i tighten the hose to the coupling will i break it like most other things.I have a bad habit over tightening, torquing anything on cars so im real cautious when i put this coupling in tomorrow.I only need it to get down to some Buick techs 10 miles away in Pa.The main reason Im doing this coupling thing is because my car has a distinct ticking noise near the exhaust manifold or the bottom of the turbo.I don't hear it as much when i rev the motor on the out side.I just don't want to find out i have a blown head gasket. I had the car out a couple of days ago and the heater core blew.Even though I don't have the usual symptoms of a blown head gasket I heard from one of my post(Blown head gasket)a guy told me a blown head gasket can blow the heater core and it could be cracked where i could not see coolant loss or milky,greenish mix. Anyway my car has 104,000 miles on it and I can't afford to have someone fix a head gasket if that is the problem right now.