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ALblackT

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2013
Messages
125
I believe I'm at my end with my regal so im going to see if i can get rid of it without taking it in the pants.
I have an 87 Regal T with about 150k miles on the body, no idea on the motor. I know it has been out at some point. Body is driver quality, with no rust that i have seen. Drives very smooth and straight. Heater works, There are no A/C lines on the car, so most likely needs a full system. I did a full spring cleaning on it this summer, with royal purple in the rear end, and synthetic oil. I never got around to changing the trans fluid, but i have it, and the filter. The interior is in very good shape, no show car, but still nice. Entire cluster works as it should, except the factory tach, and boost guage. Needs a Casper's job on it.
Autometer a pillar boost guage and narrowband
Autometer 3 1/2 tach
New updated scanmaster with power logger
Electric cutout stashed under the ash tray
Complete new rear brakes
4 Front GTA/gnx type wheels with decent tires
Hotchkis upper and lower on the rear with Koni adjustables

MOTOR:
Main issue here. There is a tap/knock coming from low on the passenger side. Nice and quiet on startup, but when it warms up, and at just the right rpm, its noticeable. Im guessing a rod, which is why the price is low. It has new fel pro head gaskets and ARP head bolts. Leaks a decent amount of oil, I havent driven it much , so it's hard to tell if any is making it passed the rings. I compression checked it a couple months back and all cyls were 130 ish with 1 at 124 (lowest reading). Basically, imo it needs to be built. Rad leaks a little water from somewhere
42lb 009s
brand new precision 5931 (under 100 miles)
adj fp
RJC boost controller
Line lock
Vac brakes
New MSD wires and AC plugs
RJC biggie oil filter adapter
RJC power plate (not installed)
3" THDP with cutout (electric) into dual flowmasters dumped before the rear.

Trans:
Has been built, no idea by whom, but it shifts like you got hit in the ass.
The converter is strange. Someone said it might be a N/A converter because it will not stall above 1500 rpm. It is a lock up but it causes the car to take DAYS to build boost. But, oh, when it does...


I love the car, but i just cant do with it what i want at this time. So im hoping somone else can.
The price is $6500 and I'm in west Alabama
I would have no problem driving this car an hour or so, And quite possibly more. I only say an hour because thats as far as i have been in it. It could go to cali and back for all i know.
2057126038 text preffered because i work nights. I can text a few more pictures if you shoot me a message
Thanks

HUGE pictures sorry

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Any idea on the original color/options? Also from the pics I can't tell if the interior is blue or gray?

Thanks,
John
 
Originally white with blue interior . Previous owner dyed most of the interior black. Not to terribly tacky imo

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I had this car about 2 years ago. Original color is blue with blue interior. I had the car painted black and i redid the interior. Transmission was built in 2010 by a place in Athens Al. It is the stock converter (atleast it was when i had it).. New rod bearings were put in the car in 2009ish.
 
Appreciate that info

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
I don't think so. I bought it from a guy in tuscumbia, who knew nothing about it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
Would love it. Text it to me if you don't mind

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using TurboBuick Mobile mobile app
 
It would have to sit for a long period before I could fix it I'm afraid.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
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