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Cam Bearing Depth

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87gnturbosix

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2002
Messages
311
Got my block back from the machine shop and wasn't sure if the front cam bearing is in deep enough. The passenger side looks fine, but I'm not sure about the driver side. Should I take it back and have them drive it in a little more?

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i would fix that and check the rest also

X2. It needs to be set back so the oil holes both are as lined up as possible. Take a small mirror and flashlight and make sure all the oil holes are good to go as well like Kevin mentioned. Nice looking bearings. They coated? What brand?
 
That will affect volume but not pressure. In the front cam bearing you dont need a lot of volume. I actually think its better to have the full support of the bearing up front since the chain tension pulls down pushing the bearing back will give less bearing area for the journal. If you look at worn front cam bearins its usually at the 5-7 O'Clock position on the bearing. As the engine operates the cam is trying to push out the front.
 
That will affect volume but not pressure. In the front cam bearing you dont need a lot of volume. I actually think its better to have the full support of the bearing up front since the chain tension pulls down pushing the bearing back will give less bearing area for the journal. If you look at worn front cam bearins its usually at the 5-7 O'Clock position on the bearing. As the engine operates the cam is trying to push out the front.

Very good point on the chain tension pulling down, but what about oiling on the chain and gears? Doesn't part of their oiling come from the front cam bearing?
 
Very good point on the chain tension pulling down, but what about oiling on the chain and gears? Doesn't part of their oiling come from the front cam bearing?

All done from splash, via the oil return holes by the lifter valley and the slinger on the crank snout.
 
You want to block some of the feed to the right side lifters.

So it looks good to me as is.


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Thanks for the advise. Since it's not the feed side I wasn't really sure. I'll check the others when I get a chance. I'm working 12's on nights.

X2. It needs to be set back so the oil holes both are as lined up as possible. Take a small mirror and flashlight and make sure all the oil holes are good to go as well like Kevin mentioned. Nice looking bearings. They coated? What brand?

They are coated. That's what the machine shop uses so I'll have to look and see what brand. I can't remember right now.
 
Also keep in mind if you did want to set the bearing back you would have to remove it and use a new one.



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Also keep in mind if you did want to set the bearing back you would have to remove it and use a new one.

Why is that? Is it any different to move it back now with a cam bearing installer than it is at the initial install time?
 
I could be wrong but I don't think you can remove the bearing and reuse it.

You are installing the bearing from the inside of the block. IT only moves in one direction. If you go too far, you can't change directions, you need to keep driving it untill it falls out and start over with a new bearing.


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I could be wrong but I don't think you can remove the bearing and reuse it.

You are installing the bearing from the inside of the block. IT only moves in one direction. If you go too far, you can't change directions, you need to keep driving it untill it falls out and start over with a new bearing.


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Oh, got ya. If you were to remove it, yes. The bearings are installed from the front, so if it needed to be pushed back it is a simple fix. The bearings are installed the back one first, then work your way out the front.
 
I'm not sure you get it..


It all has to do with how the tool gets centered. I don't think it matters what bearing gets installed when.

The front bearing and the #2 bearing gets installed from the rear of the block. The #3 and #4 gets installed from the front.




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I'm not sure you get it..

It all has to do with how the tool gets centered. I don't think it matters what bearing gets installed when.

The front bearing and the #2 bearing gets installed from the rear of the block. The #3 and #4 gets installed from the front.
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No, I see what you are saying. Sorry, obviously I can't multitask today typing here making sense and doing "homework". I understand completely, and the BEST case scenario is to do it like you said, using the cone on the tool to center the bearing in the bore. When I meant was (IF it were important and needed pressed back a 1/16" or so, you could use the tool to push it back into the block a bit. Since it is already 95% into the block the centering part is not nearly as critical, although it would be best to do like you said, and NOT go backward. :biggrin:
 
Someone can correct me if i'm wrong but this is how I think they get installed.

You drive them in one direction and can't go backwards.


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. When I meant was (IF it were important and needed pressed back a 1/16" or so, you could use the tool to push it back into the block a bit. Since it is already 95% into the block the centering part is not nearly as critical,



We posted at the same time.


I would like someone to comfirm that it is ok to do this??


(not that I have a block with the same problem, no that wouldn't be it)


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We posted at the same time.


I would like someone to comfirm that it is ok to do this??


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Me too, curiosity is killing the cat. ;)

I have the tool in the garage, installed probably 300 sets of cam bearings, but depending on how the bearings "felt" going in, I may or may not go backwards. That's why it is important to take your time. "Tap, and look". :biggrin:

If I were building a single digit ET car, with thousands and thousands tied up in it, I might yank a bearing I took to far and replace it, just to be safe. On typical engine shop stock motors, not so much. Saw a guy put cam bearings in one block, then found a crack, so he removed them and put them in another block. :eek: Motor ran great and was nearing 80k last time I saw it. Different beasts I know, would be much more cautious with a HP motor.
 
Someone can correct me if i'm wrong but this is how I think they get installed.

You drive them in one direction and can't go backwards.


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Depends on the type of installer tool if you are using the cone or screw type then you are right. But if you are using the bar and cam with individual sized "journals" then you can flip the tool backwards, as two or three journals center the tool; and drive the opposite direction, those installers are old school and aren't around much.
 
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