Camshaft Preference

[TurboWh1]

Solid roller or hydrolic roller.... What do you prefer and why? I'm doing a new build at the moment and curious how many of you street drive a solid roller cam. There is more maintenance required of course but the performance gains of a solid roller set up cannot be ignored.

 

[750H.P.V6]

I'd recommend a hydraulic roller cam for ease of maintenance but it depends on your personal goals. Lost of guys have gone really fast with hydraulic cams and with short travel lifters they have better high RPM characteristics.

My current car has a solid roller cam, it came that way. It's fine but the valvetrain is somewhat noisy. This is amplified by the fact that I have a Hoodskinz hood liner. I have had several other cars with solid cams as well as running a solid flat tappet cam way back in the day. If you don't mind adjusting valves every so often they're fine too.

Neal

 

[TIMINATOR]

My vote is for solid roller, with stainless steel rocker arms on all blower, turbo, or squeeze applications. I have tested for lots of years, track and dyno. BUT, I am not aware of anyone making stainless rockers for Buicks, I have asked Comp, Harland Sharp, Speedmaster, and others for them. They all said too small a niche market. I have a friend with a CNC shop and have been on him about it for a while.
Solid roller cams with aluminum rockers are slower than with stainless, as the alums "grow" when hot and the lash opens up, making the cam seem smaller.
Hydraulics will take up the rockers "growth", but they bleed down. So we are stuck with the short travel lifters, or lashing normal lifters a half turn up from the bottom for max performance. When available, slow bleed lifters work well, but as they wear, the bleed rate gets worse (faster bleed). I have run hydraulics lashed from the bottom on the street. No problems running them that way since 1986.
TIMINATOR

 

[TIMINATOR]

Also, what is a hoodskinz hood liner, and why would it amplify the noise?
TIMINATOR

 

['87 Turbo "T"]

It’s an aftermarket hood liner. Mark at TR Customs has them on occasion.

https://buickturboregal.com/hoodskinz-hood-liner-turbo-regals/

 

[750H.P.V6]

Also, what is a hoodskinz hood liner, and why would it amplify the noise?
TIMINATOR

The Hoodskins hood liner is aluminum which reflects the under hood noise rather than absorbing it like the stock hood liner. Their quality is very nice but they are better for a car that sees a lot of car shows than one that gets driven.

Neal

 

[TIMINATOR]

I get the better looking at car shows part, but what about the engine heat? Does the hood get hotter too?
TIMINATOR

 

[Mr.Spool]

Solid roller or hydrolic roller.... What do you prefer and why? I'm doing a new build at the moment and curious how many of you street drive a solid roller cam. There is more maintenance required of course but the performance gains of a solid roller set up cannot be ignored.

Need to really look at what is needed for a turbo regal to run at the performance level desired.
Hydraulic cams have made over 150hp per hole on our cars.
Need the right amount of cam and spring pressures and the turbo will (grow the cam)as well.
Going overboard I dont see the point especially on a street car I personally have run the stock cam (ran 10s second in the 1/4 with 100lb valve springs) and mild cams to wild cams in the cars with lots of different turbos.
Inmo the right hydraulic roller and healthy spring pressures with the turbo and converter teck of today makes for no drama and alot of performance.

 

[TurboWh1]

Need to really look at what is needed for a turbo regal to run at the performance level desired.
Hydraulic cams have made over 150hp per hole on our cars.
Need the right amount of cam and spring pressures and the turbo will (grow the cam)as well.
Going overboard I dont see the point especially on a street car I personally have run the stock cam (ran 10s second in the 1/4 with 100lb valve springs) and mild cams to wild cams in the cars with lots of different turbos.
Inmo the right hydraulic roller and healthy spring pressures with the turbo and converter teck of today makes for no drama and alot of performance.

Hydraulic cams are a nice touch for street cars and that is what I'm currently running. It just falls off in the upper RPM range which I new it would when I went this route. I wanted to keep the RPMs lower at the time. Now not so much. I agree, the springs are also key to success in this space. I guess I should clarify, my car is probably more race than street at this point. Ive only put 7000 miles on it in the past 10 years. But I do like to drive it some on street but realistically I do not take it on long trips. Local track is very close to my house.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Mr. Spool is sbsolutely correct! My reply is for a max effort application, but what I missed is YOUR application! What is your goal now, and where you want to end up later on?
My deal is do everything inside the engine for where you want to end up, so you don't have to go back in there several times. You can save the external stuff,(I.E. bigger turbo, intercooler, T-body, headers, port intake, etc.)for later, at that point, everything is simple bolt on, rather than have to crack the entire engine open several times later.
My newer inexperienced customers tend to add the externals first, it seems easier to them, then build the foundation to keep it alive later. Assuming it has lived that long...
Plan the build, then build the plan.
Seemingly simple add ons, like roller rockers require clearancing the rocker stands by grinding, or better, milling. Lousy time to find out, after you bought them, and the cam/ spring change is much easier with the engine out too.
You will break less parts, and it is easier to do the externals later. If you really need to. Besides, if you look inside first, you KNOW what you have, no guessing.
JMHO
TIMINATOR

 

[Mr.Spool]

Hydraulic cams are a nice touch for street cars and that is what I'm currently running. It just falls off in the upper RPM range which I new it would when I went this route. I wanted to keep the RPMs lower at the time. Now not so much. I agree, the springs are also key to success in this space. I guess I should clarify, my car is probably more race than street at this point. Ive only put 7000 miles on it in the past 10 years. But I do like to drive it some on street but realistically I do not take it on long trips. Local track is very close to my house.

I've had hydraulics spin to 7200 rpm on iron and aluminum heads
But have also made big power in the 5800 to 6500rpm range with both hydraulic and solid roller cams.
No signs of port stalling at all even with irons.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Hydraulic cams are a nice touch for street cars and that is what I'm currently running. It just falls off in the upper RPM range which I new it would when I went this route. I wanted to keep the RPMs lower at the time. Now not so much. I agree, the springs are also key to success in this space. I guess I should clarify, my car is probably more race than street at this point. Ive only put 7000 miles on it in the past 10 years. But I do like to drive it some on street but realistically I do not take it on long trips. Local track is very close to my house.

What pressures are you at and where does it fall off?

 

[Mr.Spool]

Hydraulic cams are a nice touch for street cars and that is what I'm currently running. It just falls off in the upper RPM range which I new it would when I went this route. I wanted to keep the RPMs lower at the time. Now not so much. I agree, the springs are also key to success in this space. I guess I should clarify, my car is probably more race than street at this point. Ive only put 7000 miles on it in the past 10 years. But I do like to drive it some on street but realistically I do not take it on long trips. Local track is very close to my house.

A solid can definitely be driven on the street if you want to go that route

 

[Mr.Spool]

Mr. Spool is sbsolutely correct! My reply is for a max effort application, but what I missed is YOUR application! What is your goal now, and where you want to end up later on?
My deal is do everything inside the engine for where you want to end up, so you don't have to go back in there several times. You can save the external stuff,(I.E. bigger turbo, intercooler, T-body, headers, port intake, etc.)for later, at that point, everything is simple bolt on, rather than have to crack the entire engine open several times later.
My newer inexperienced customers tend to add the externals first, it seems easier to them, then build the foundation to keep it alive later. Assuming it has lived that long...
Plan the build, then build the plan.
Seemingly simple add ons, like roller rockers require clearancing the rocker stands by grinding, or better, milling. Lousy time to find out, after you bought them, and the cam/ spring change is much easier with the engine out too.
You will break less parts, and it is easier to do the externals later. If you really need to. Besides, if you look inside first, you KNOW what you have, no guessing.
JMHO
TIMINATOR

Plan the build build the plan.
Love ^^^^

 

[TurboWh1]

What pressures are you at and where does it fall off?

I'm currently running a 212/212 hydraulic roller cam with comp 26915-12 springs.

• Spring Info:
• Seat Pressure: 105 lbs @ 1.800''
• Open Pressure: 293 lbs @ 1.200''

Valves float at 6300 Rpm. It starts to fall off around 5800-6000 which makes sense as the cam is specked that way. My goal is to take it to 7000 RPM range moving forward.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Plan the build build the plan.
Love ^^^^

What are the hesds? Ported?
Manifold. Ported?
Exhaust system?
Headers?
All of these things will affect upper rpm. As does the spring pressure NOW, not what it was 7 years ago.
TIMINATOR

 

[TurboWh1]

What are the heads? Ported? Yes, ported Champion Irons
Manifold. Ported? Yes, Champion Stock ported
Exhaust system? Houston 3" with cut out. ATR 2.5

Headers? Yes, Postons
All of these things will affect upper rpm. As does the spring pressure NOW, not what it was 7 years ago. Have not "confirmed" actual spring pressure. Springs have less than 2k miles from when replaced and installed new in 2016.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Moroso made an on the car spring tester. See if they are all similar on pressure. Its not REAL accurate, but will let you know if you have a few light ones. Every time you float springs, they will float at a slightly less rpm than last time.
Also, check your fuel pressure at rpm/boost, it may fall off on the upper end. If you dont have a pressure sender on your logger, have someone watch it at the top end of 2nd, or third gear. Fuel filter?
Are the plugs, wires, coils in good shape? Ignition may free rev fine, but break up under load (top end of each gear).
Check the easy stuff first.
TIMINATOR

 

[TurboWh1]

Also, check your fuel pressure at rpm/boost, it may fall off on the upper end. If you dont have a pressure sender on your logger, have someone watch it at the top end of 2nd, or third gear. Fuel filter?
Are the plugs, wires, coils in good shape? Ignition may free rev fine, but break up under load (top end of each gear).

All the parts are new or recently replaced. Fuel filter new, plugs, wires, module, coil ,etc. I did have an issue with spark plug gap. Had to tighten it up so it wouldn't break up under higher boost levels. Fuel pressure stays solid. My engine is getting tired. It will be rebuilt and it's going my other car. I'm starting with a clean slate for this new build. I'm mainly seeking opinions on the solid roller and how that has gone for folks who street drive there cars some. New engine will be taken higher in RPM range.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Modern new design stuff lasts a long time between adjustments. My boats and street cars go about a year between adjustments, and keep in mind, our boating season is 9 or so months long and we have NO speed limits on most lakes!
Use to have Friday nite boat drags on lake plesant too. Slow boats only ran 70 or so, and it takes about 90 to even get noticed here. On the smaller lakes we can top end for a mile plus, bigger ones, like Havasu, you can cruise at 100 for 15 miles plus. My blower boat in other posts runs 126+ at 11 lbs. The 14-71 hi helix will make over 25! And thats without the squeeze...
I'll post up a piston pic later, its an oops!
I run the valves once a year, or just do the occasional "clicker."
Street vavle train is better now than the race stuff from 20 years ago.
Don't sweat adjustments.
Remember: A wise older Comp Cams engineer said:" the best oil filter in an engine is the hydraulic lifters!"
Bleed rate goes up every time you run it!
TIMINATOR