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can it be the fuel pump?

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Chatmanboy

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
490
The car will start and run for 10 miles or so and cut off then when I try to restart it, it takes like 10 times to restart then it will cut off again I'm not hearing any noises it just cuts off like I've run out of gas even though the gas tank is full. Then I let it sit for a while then it start and repeats the same thing! Anyone else have this problem? (Guess its the time of the year for the car to throw all kind of problems at me!)
 
So, does the fuel psi fall just before it quits?
What is it when it's running?
Fresh filter?
Tank vent working? [OEM is hooked to the charcoal canister.]
Module may be heating up, and shutting you down.
When it refuses to start, do you have spark at a plug?
Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?
 
well cant tell what the fuel is doing when it cuts off dont have the other kind of fuel gauge.
when running its at 42 line off about 38 with it on.
just changed the filter today!
Tank vent? idk what that is
the ignition module could be heating up? the wierd thing is i drove the car back home late at night when it was cool didnt cut out at all! but when it was warm out the day that it cut out
i didnt check spark but im pretty sure it did. it was trying to turn over but didnt. until i let it sit for a while
and yes the fuel primes when i turn the key on
 
"Tank vent? idk what that is"
The tank HAS to be vented to atmospheric pressure. If it's not, as the pump pulls fuel out, the loss of fuel causes the pump to be operating w/ a vacuum at the inlet. This WILL destroy the pump, if run that way for long enough period. The pump cavitates. [Air entrained in the fuel will blast the pump cavity when the air bubbles implode.]
A stock tank is vented thru the charcoal canister, mounted next to the dr side headlite area. If it's inop, the hoses are removed/plugged, you have no tank vent.
The hose at the vent could also be kinked/plugged shut. Look at the hoses that are on the pass side, over the rear axle, and at the canister.
 
ok just finished the pump swap. also checked the canister and hoses. all looked fine. Now when you said module, were u talking about the ign module?
 
The car will start and run for 10 miles or so and cut off then when I try to restart it, it takes like 10 times to restart then it will cut off again I'm not hearing any noises it just cuts off like I've run out of gas even though the gas tank is full. Then I let it sit for a while then it start and repeats the same thing! Anyone else have this problem? (Guess its the time of the year for the car to throw all kind of problems at me!)

I have this exact problem!! Figured I'd buy a new GM coil and ignition module, and go from there. Wouldn't hurt to have a backup anyway. I drive my car about 8 to 10 miles and it dies while driving down the road. Won't start up while hot. Wait a while, and it restarts and makes it another mile at best. Had to get it towed home. Fired back up first try next day. Drives me crazy!!! Idles fine for about 15 minutes or so and dies....fuel pump still running. Idles longer when its cold outside for sure. Tried the gas thing, have a new filter, somewhat new pump hotwired, and I have a gauge. Haven't tested the pressure lately, but it seems to idle fine and rev perfect in my garage. I'm guessing ignition module or coil. Would really like to hear what happens to you. And any other thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Yea im goin to get a new ign module tomorrow. I swapped the pumo but don't believe that was it. And like u said it cold outside it has been running fine haven't cut out. But when it did it was warm outside. So im goin to swap and and the say they have a tester at AZ. because I dont believe its the pump. Due to the fact it still was pumping when u turn the key in
 
Mybad for the misspelled words. Typing on my phone

Make sure you buy GM parts. I purchased a module and a coil from a reputable vendor, and it lasted a few years. But I have heard that the GM ones are better. I haven't purchased new ones yet, since its still winter around chicago area. But I planned on gettin one from NOS4GN.com or a part store that actually sells real GM parts. Damn hotairs make so much heat in the engine compartment, it can't be good on the modules or coils. Good luck, and let me know if you get it to work out. I not only have this problem but I think something is screwy in my steering column. Everything works until I turn the key to the run position. It doesn't crank. Fuel pump primes with all of the lights on like normal. I have researched everything to do, just haven't had time work on it yet. Yea!! Multiple problems!!:D
 
" Everything works until I turn the key to the run position. It doesn't crank. Fuel pump primes with all of the lights on like normal. I have researched everything to do, just haven't had time work on it yet"
Try turning the column collar to the left, then try to start.
It may be the trans link rod is not moving the collar far enuf to close the P/N switch. If the rod clamp gets loose, or the linkage gets sloppy, this may be the cause.
 
The car will start and run for 10 miles or so and cut off then when I try to restart it, it takes like 10 times to restart then it will cut off again I'm not hearing any noises it just cuts off like I've run out of gas even though the gas tank is full. Then I let it sit for a while then it start and repeats the same thing! Anyone else have this problem? (Guess its the time of the year for the car to throw all kind of problems at me!)
When this happened to me it turned out to be a balky relay for the hot wire. If you have a hot wire to the fuel pump, then unplug it at the rear bumper and hook it back up as stock and see if the problem goes away. Probably not it, but it only takes a few seconds to check.
 
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