Car Died....

[QWK]

From my house to work is approximately 17 miles. The GN, on her maiden voyage, made it 16.
I was driving normal, not getting into too much boost. I was on the highway doing about 65-70mph. And about mile 15, the car "hicupped" I was thinking, Thats not good. 15.5 was the exit and she started bucking and missing and "hiccupping" At 16 mile, she gave up and died. I hit recall and nothing came up on the scanmaster.

I tried to start it, nothing. However, while I was cranking it, I gave it some throttle. The car would try and start (split second)after I let off the pedal. But still would not start.

Im thinking Module??

Any help would be apperciated.
Thanks
Craig

 

[TwinyTwin]

I had a similar problem a while back and it end up being my crank sensor. It was loose and would hick-up while i was driving it adn then just shut off on me, sometime it would start up and then just shut off or it would not start. I tightened it back up and ever thing was fine. Hope this helps you.

 

[QWK]

Thanks. Ill look at that first.

I called my parts house, $168 for a Module!!!

The Fun continues.
Craig

 

[QWK]

Well Im a Dumbass. The ground from the battery to the frame was NOT hooked up. I guess it was touching some part of the frame enough to keep it running. But when I hooked it back up and tried to restart it, NOTHING.
I left the ECM orange wire off to reset the computer, hooked it back up and tried ot start it. Still Nothing.

Could the loose ground wire cause something to take a crap??
I also checked the Crank sensor, its tight and seems alright.

Any other ideas??

 

[Grumpy]

don't just throw parts at the car !!! it gets very EXPENSIVE

 

[QWK]

don't just throw parts at the car !!! it gets very EXPENSIVE

Well no kidding. Thats why Im in here asking for suggestions.
Is that all you can come up with?


Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks
Craig

 

[jimmymopower]

You need to see what you have lost. It either spark, fuel or compression. First I would check fuel. Un-cap the schrader valve at the end of the fuel rail and hook up a pressure gauge, then turn the key on. Pressure? If not, fuel pump could be bad, relay, wiring, or you ran out of gas :redface: . If you have good fuel pressure (35-45 psi depending on mods), then I would check for spark. Just take one of the wires off, hook it up to a spare plug and position it where the threads of the plug are grounded and have someone spin the motor over while you check to see if the plug is firing. (don't hold the plug while doing this) The spark should be nice and bright, more blue than orange. No spark? Could be a bunch of things, but the first thing I would check is the module. Separate the module from the coil pack and see if the insulation on the module has melted. If it has, you need a new coil pack and module. Another simple test (if you have a noid light) is to check for injector pulse. If you do have one you probably know how to use it, and this rambling has been tedious to read. 9 out of ten times, if you have inj pulse and no spark, the module has puked. If you have neither, I would suspect a faulty crank sensor. Sorry for the novel...HTH James.

 

[QWK]

RAMBLE ON!! Thats what Iam looking for, ideas!!
Thank you James!!

Fuel pressure is is good, 36-38psi. New accel coil pack. Will go out and check for spark.

BRB

 

[QWK]

Well I have spark and NO injector pulse. Which is probably Bad ECM or Cam sensor.

This sucks

 

[G McCall]

Well I have spark and NO injector pulse. Which is probably Bad ECM or Cam sensor.

This sucks

No injector pulse ? Do you have fuel pressure ?

The injector 15 amp fuse under the dash will also affect the fuel pump.
We blew that fuse at Noble last weekend. got it fixed though.
After a few tests we noticed no fuel pressure while cranking. Hot wired the second fuel pump, got pressure but the engine would not fire. Replaced the blown fuse and away we went.

 

[jimmymopower]

If you neither inj pulse or spark, that usually is the crank sensor, not the cam... Simple test with a multimeter, I think its the grey and red wire coming out of the crank sensor that supplies the ICM (ignition control module) with the signal, set the mutimeter to ohms, ground the neg lead to the car, and backprobe (carefully) the signal wire, and look for the resistance to jump up and down as the motor is turned over. The harness at the crank sensor is a bugger to get to and test without losing a couple fingers, so look for the wire at the ICM harness. And even before you do all this, check ALL the fuses and electrical connections at starter and battery. Oh, does the service engine soon light come with the key on and engine off? If not you have no power to the ecm. I won't get into that yet though. Cheers, let me know what turns up.

 

[QWK]

Well its always Great to hve an extra set of eyes.
Tom came out to the store and hooked his computer up, car still wouldnt start. Did some checks, reset the TPS to 46 and while doing that, he found the culprit....
The control module harness was loose. After all that running around today, it was something, thank God, that simple!!

A big thanks to everyone who tried to help :cheers:

Craig

 

[tom robison]

hey craig, l got the belhousing on tonight, looks sweet. No chance of a flex plate coming through it, now if i could keep driveshafts to keep from coming through the floor i would be good. Did the car make it home alright?

 

[QWK]

Yes it did.
Thanks again!! :biggrin:

 

[KevinB]

hey craig, l got the belhousing on tonight, looks sweet. No chance of a flex plate coming through it, now if i could keep driveshafts to keep from coming through the floor i would be good. Did the car make it home alright?

Please don't brake my driveshaft that I lent you.

 

[tom robison]

DON'T WORRY it's still on jackstands, and if i do it will give you a reason to have a good one built too!