Car Hard to Start

[BASS]

Ok, ive never had a starting problem until today. I had to keep cranking over the car and it finally started..

The battery/alternator is ok, and I have a newer mini-starter (starter easily engages), so those things have nothing to do with the problem. Also, once the car is started, it runs fine (i.e. fuel pump is obviously ok)..No driveability issues and all the Scanmaster readings are ok..

Can it be a sensor thats going bad?

Maybe the coil pack? (but this is a fairly new one, along with new plugs and wires...)

Maybe the ignition module (i never replaced it, just the coil pack)...

Whats the usual culprit when the car is hard to start (but turns over easily and battery voltage is ok)....

 

[bmackinnon]

Fuel pump relay has likely gone bad. The relay has a power 'bypass' around it via the oil pressure switch. Thus, if the FP relay goes bad, the FP will continue to receive power and run as long as the oil pressure switch is 'made-up' (ie. engine has oil pressure). Your 'hard start' is probably due to having to crank the engine over long enough to build oil pressure, closing the OP switch, lighting the FP, building fuel press., enabling the engine to finally start. Common problem with TR's, and an easy diagnosis/fix. Do you hear the fuel pump priming for 1-2 sec. when you turn the key to 'ON'?

 

[tom j]

possible cam sensor, if not as stated aove

 

[BASS]

Ok, when I turn the key to the on position, I hear the pump kick on for 2 seconds or so..Can it be that the fuel pump relay intermitantly goes bad, or once it goes bad, the pump would never prime...?

 

[tom j]

Whats your fuel pressure while cranking?

 

[bmackinnon]

Ok, when I turn the key to the on position, I hear the pump kick on for 2 seconds or so..Can it be that the fuel pump relay intermitantly goes bad, or once it goes bad, the pump would never prime...?

If it cranks right up after your sure it primes, then yes, perhaps the relay is getting intermittant and on it's way out. Relays don't necessarily just die all at once. Hence the occasional ability to smack one with a screwdriver to persuade it to the desired state. If you're sure it primed, and then it's still hard to start, it must be another issue....

 

[FreeBoost]

I looked up "Hard Start" in the old service manual. Here's the things the General says to check:
• Bad fuel/ water in fuel;
• Fuel pressure;
• TPS – sticking or binding or high TPS voltage with throttle closed – should be less than .7 volts;
• High resistance in coolant sensor in sensor circuit;
• EGR operation/not closing or seating properly;
• Faulty fuel check valve/ fuel draining back to tank.;
• Ignition:
o Spark;
o Damaged harness;
o Crank sensor being rubbed by interrupter.
• Spark plug condition;
• Fuel pump relay;
• MAF if engine starts and stalls. If so disconnect MAF, if engine runs then it’s MAF or wiring.

Sorry this doesn’t limit it much but it gives you a check list. Another thing that would happen when the cars where new was the sock on the fuel pump would collapse and starve the engine of fuel. There were a lot of cases of Dealers not being able to diagnose this problem and going to the point of replacing the engine only to still have the problem.

Good luck.