Charging problem after transport

F

FreeJack

New Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2001
Greetings everyone!

I have a problem that has got me annoyed.

I moved from Floirda to Colorado. My car was on a transport the entire trip. It worked fine before the trip. Now I got it off the transport and it will not charge! At first I thought it was a bad alternator. I got a new one and still will not charge. I checked the VOLT light bulb. Works fine but does not go on when you start the car. I checked the "L" position wire on the 4 wire plug and it is not getting 12 volts.

Is there somewhere wlse I can look to track the break in the circuit?

I'm ready to check the wires on the starter.

Or could it be the battery?

When I jump the car with another car and leave the cables on it the car runs fine.

Any help PLEASE!

Thanks
 
Has anyone tried this?

Disconnect the voltage regulator plug from the alternator.

Get another one and wire a "194" lamp (the same as in our dash) to it and run the wire to a 12 volt ignition source.

Now this would simulate the same wiring as the dash Volt light and would restore my connection.

Anyone see any problems? I know I would not be able to see the light if the alternator fails but it would be a temporary fix until I get my dash apart so I can clean all the contacts.

;)
 
I was taught that when the car is running, and you disconnect one of the battery cables and it dies, then it's the alternator. If it stays running, it's probably the battery. The car will stay running on the alternator.
Sounds like your alternator is not working for some reason. When you say you got a new one, was it a rebuilt from a parts store (O'Reilly's, etc.)? Usually, it takes a couple of trips back to the store to finally get one that works.
Do your headlights, horn, accessories all work, or is the battery dead? Wish I could be more help. That's frustrating.
 
URSPANKED said:
I was taught that when the car is running, and you disconnect one of the battery cables and it dies, then it's the alternator. If it stays running, it's probably the battery. The car will stay running on the alternator.
Click to expand...


That is a very bad idea on a fuel injected vehicle. Voltage spikes can/do kill alot.
 
Reply

ATS666 said:
That is a very bad idea on a fuel injected vehicle. Voltage spikes can/do kill alot.
Click to expand...
Bad Idea is correct. the first thing to do is unplug the field wire connector at the back of the alt. Check it with a test light with the ignition on & car running if poss. If you have voltage there then the alt is most likely bad. If not than I would back track the circuit back to find out why. When you turn the ignition on the volt light bulb should glow on. if not push on the speedo face a bit to see if that works. There have been problems with the multi prong connection behind the speedo not making proper contact. Especially if the speedo or dash in that area have been recently disturbed.
 
Reply

ATS666 said:
That is a very bad idea on a fuel injected vehicle. Voltage spikes can/do kill alot.
Click to expand...
Bad Idea is correct. the first thing to do is unplug the field wire connector at the back of the alt. Check it with a test light with the ignition on & car running if poss. If you have voltage there then the alt is most likely bad. If not than I would back track the circuit to find out why. When you turn the ignition on the volt light bulb should glow on. if not push on the speedo face a bit to see if that works. There have been problems with the multi prong connection behind the speedo not making proper contact. Especially if the speedo or dash in that area have been recently disturbed.
 
remove your cluster

if you remove the cluster and take a pencil eraser and clean your connections and put it back together it will be fine its the reg. wire messing with you casper electronics sells a 33 dallor adapter to fix this pro blem and how i no this is it happend to me or there is 12volt coming off of your egr plug 4 wire plug in that might be a source for you to charge with :rolleyes:
 
I'm fairly sure it is a bad connection in my dash. I went to Auto Zone and got a new voltage regulator plug and made a test harness. Caspers uses the 12 volt ignition lead off of the wastegate solenoid. I'll see what happens. If it works I know the dash is all dirty and it will need a good cleaning.
 
BAD CONNECTIONeveryone!!! I traced it back to my dash.

I created a simple harness using a plug I got from Auto Zone and a socket out of another dash. I used the ignition line off of the wastegate soleinoid and the light goes on and off just like the dash light. I'm getting a solid 14.8v at idle.

Now I need to take a dash apart and thoughtly clean all connections!

Thanks everyone!
 
man thats great

FreeJack said:
BAD CONNECTIONeveryone!!! I traced it back to my dash.

I created a simple harness using a plug I got from Auto Zone and a socket out of another dash. I used the ignition line off of the wastegate soleinoid and the light goes on and off just like the dash light. I'm getting a solid 14.8v at idle.

Now I need to take a dash apart and thoughtly clean all connections!

Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...

im fighting a gn sometimes it works someime it dont so the cleaning is on as well i used the first power wire close to coil pack on the erg switch its key on key off power but im going back to stock today good luck casper said to get his harness for this and no more problem is yours digital
 
I had a similar problem, I trailered my car from Jersey to N. Carolina to store it at my parents house because I did not have a garage. When I got it there, my parents tried to start it every couple of weeks to keep everything rotating, everytime they tried to start i, they would have to jump start it. I visited a couple of times a year, and I would have to buy a new battery everytime I go down there. I tried taking the bulbs out from under the hood, glove box, and trunk. pulled the fuse from the radio, because the clock stayed on with the key off, and even installed a battery disconnect switch. Still dead everytime. I finally brought the car back to Jersey this August. had to buy another new battery down there, trailered it home, battery hasn't died since! I am in the process of replacing everything that dry-rotted over the years, so with my work schedule and weather the way it has been, the car sits a couple of weeks at a time and still fires right now.
 
re a charging

LBNJWE4 said:
I had a similar problem, I trailered my car from Jersey to N. Carolina to store it at my parents house because I did not have a garage. When I got it there, my parents tried to start it every couple of weeks to keep everything rotating, everytime they tried to start i, they would have to jump start it. I visited a couple of times a year, and I would have to buy a new battery everytime I go down there. I tried taking the bulbs out from under the hood, glove box, and trunk. pulled the fuse from the radio, because the clock stayed on with the key off, and even installed a battery disconnect switch. Still dead everytime. I finally brought the car back to Jersey this August. had to buy another new battery down there, trailered it home, battery hasn't died since! I am in the process of replacing everything that dry-rotted over the years, so with my work schedule and weather the way it has been, the car sits a couple of weeks at a time and still fires right now.
Click to expand...
you can cut the wire going to the plug on the alt and run a new wire with caspers harness or run off of the boost switch there is a 12 volt wire coming off of that then if your dash does that again your car will still charge wich is a saftey thing when your out cruising around and hit a bump and the dash looses its feed no more not starting have a good one and merry x mas and a happy buick new year ;)
 
Merry Christmas! Is there a fix at the dash instead of cutting anything? Thanks for the reply!
 
Ever since i installed my RJC boost controller i've had charging problems.I unplugged my factory boost selenoid and hid the plug.Could this be the problem?
 
Reply

10secvega said:
Ever since i installed my RJC boost controller i've had charging problems.I unplugged my factory boost selenoid and hid the plug.Could this be the problem?
Click to expand...
No! but that should of triggered the check engine light.
 
take a volt meter check power to your plug on the back of the alt if its low go to caspers website and get the fix or fix it yourself heres how there is a key on key off power off the egr switch its the first wire coming off the 4 wire plug closer to the coil pack if you tie into this wire and either buy a new plug and make a new 12 volt source for the plug on the back of the alt try it will work and your problem is gone and keep the rjc volt booster thats good thing for your car tsm racer 9.97 @ 135
 
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