Chinese Crap HID Headlights

[NY Twin Turbo]

Last fall I ordered an HID kit for my TR on E-bay. It was cheap so I figured it would come with some complications. I received it and discovered that 14 thousand K meant the headlights were pink. So I decided to order a 6 thousand K kit this spring with a 55 Watt bulb and ballast set up. The first kit was cheesy so I figured I would spend a little more on the second kit.

I have no idea who makes this stuff. I'm assuming it's probably an 8 year old girl being beaten in a sweat shop somewhere. But there's no company contact information, no way to request technical assistance and it's not worth the hassle of returning this junk. The instructions read like a poorly spelt Chinese menu. If you read them out loud you actually develop an Asian accent.

So here's the problem. Sometimes the brights work, sometimes the headlights work, sometimes nothing works, but most of the time everything doesn't work like it should. It's installed properly. You can't mess it up. It's Plug and Play. All my factory wiring rings out as it should. So the problem is in the kit. Now one headlight only is working on the driver's side. Last week it was the passenger side that worked.

I was told the ballasts were troublesome by a spectator at a car show. And he said sooner or later they would give me trouble. If anyone has experience with this sort of thing, and believes this is the problem, can you please direct me to a link for a quality set of 55 watt ballasts.

Otherwise any other ideas are appreciated.

 

[chris kirk]

Last fall I ordered an HID kit for my TR on E-bay. It was cheap so I figured it would come with some complications. I received it and discovered that 14 thousand K meant the headlights were pink. So I decided to order a 6 thousand K kit this spring with a 55 Watt bulb and ballast set up. The first kit was cheesy so I figured I would spend a little more on the second kit.

I have no idea who makes this stuff. I'm assuming it's probably an 8 year old girl being beaten in a sweat shop somewhere. But there's no company contact information, no way to request technical assistance and it's not worth the hassle of returning this junk. The instructions read like a poorly spelt Chinese menu. If you read them out loud you actually develop an Asian accent.

So here's the problem. Sometimes the brights work, sometimes the headlights work, sometimes nothing works, but most of the time everything doesn't work like it should. It's installed properly. You can't mess it up. It's Plug and Play. All my factory wiring rings out as it should. So the problem is in the kit. Now one headlight only is working on the driver's side. Last week it was the passenger side that worked.

I was told the ballasts were troublesome by a spectator at a car show. And he said sooner or later they would give me trouble. If anyone has experience with this sort of thing, and believes this is the problem, can you please direct me to a link for a quality set of 55 watt ballasts.

Otherwise any other ideas are appreciated.

You're pretty upbeat about the whole thing..... I bought a kit from Dennis Kirban, but have yet to install it. I've never looked at the ones on ebay, so I can't compare. There's other people on here that have used some different kits, but not sure where they got them from. I don't buy from ebay. To hard to return and no one to bitch to when the shit doesn't work. Dennis Kirban is a good guy and he stands behind his products. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Good luck.

 

[chris kirk]

Last fall I ordered an HID kit for my TR on E-bay. It was cheap so I figured it would come with some complications. I received it and discovered that 14 thousand K meant the headlights were pink. So I decided to order a 6 thousand K kit this spring with a 55 Watt bulb and ballast set up. The first kit was cheesy so I figured I would spend a little more on the second kit.

I have no idea who makes this stuff. I'm assuming it's probably an 8 year old girl being beaten in a sweat shop somewhere. But there's no company contact information, no way to request technical assistance and it's not worth the hassle of returning this junk. The instructions read like a poorly spelt Chinese menu. If you read them out loud you actually develop an Asian accent.

So here's the problem. Sometimes the brights work, sometimes the headlights work, sometimes nothing works, but most of the time everything doesn't work like it should. It's installed properly. You can't mess it up. It's Plug and Play. All my factory wiring rings out as it should. So the problem is in the kit. Now one headlight only is working on the driver's side. Last week it was the passenger side that worked.

I was told the ballasts were troublesome by a spectator at a car show. And he said sooner or later they would give me trouble. If anyone has experience with this sort of thing, and believes this is the problem, can you please direct me to a link for a quality set of 55 watt ballasts.

Otherwise any other ideas are appreciated.

Also, if you don't mind. I have a question for you. Can you explain how you boxed in your radiator. This shit right here can't be any good. I'm going to be doing mine soon and I read something before about how you boxed it in. It sounded like you did a great job with it.

 

[chris kirk]

Sorry picture won't post. It's the stock application though.

 

[TURBOELKY]

HID lights need to be installed with a relay to each ballast with power direct from the battery. The dude who told you HID lights are problematic didn't know that either. Instructions won't say that, but the factory harness can't supply proper voltage.

 

[chrisgn6]

They make relay harnesses that that will supply power straight from the battery. Did you leave your high beams connected? If so you more than likely had a back feed . I had all the same problems you mentioned. I now have a 4 hid setup. I can take a picture later if you like. Only problem I'm having now is the indicator on the dash is reversed. Low/ dash indicator on. High/ indicator off.

But when I had just hid's in my low beam I left the high beam unplugged. And used a relay harness that uses the battery for power. Worked fine.

I'm only running high and low now cause it looks better.


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[NY Twin Turbo]

Also, if you don't mind. I have a question for you. Can you explain how you boxed in your radiator. This shit right here can't be any good. I'm going to be doing mine soon and I read something before about how you boxed it in. It sounded like you did a great job with it.

Chris, I'll get some pics to you soon. I'll PM the details just give me a little time.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

They make relay harnesses that that will supply power straight from the battery. Did you leave your high beams connected? If so you more than likely had a back feed . I had all the same problems you mentioned. I now have a 4 hid setup. I can take a picture later if you like. Only problem I'm having now is the indicator on the dash is reversed. Low/ dash indicator on. High/ indicator off.

But when I had just hid's in my low beam I left the high beam unplugged. And used a relay harness that uses the battery for power. Worked fine.

I'm only running high and low now cause it looks better.


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These kits both have a fused power lead to the battery from the relay. And in both cases I used it. Meaning, Yes. It's powered directly with the battery.

My brights are not used. They never were used. They were and still are not in service. I have a twin turbo motor and the space behind the brights is needed to connect my intercooler pipes. So this kit was supposed to give me one lamp operation of brights and headlight. The harness plug for the bights just hangs behind the radiator support unseen. The kit is installed properly and was checked 1000 times. So it's unpredictable behavior is simply something I cant explain. AND YES! My indicator for the brights is backwards too!

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

These kits both have a fused power lead to the battery from the relay. And in both cases I used it. Meaning, Yes. It's powered directly with the battery.

My brights are not used. They never were used. They were and still are not in service. I have a twin turbo motor and the space behind the brights is needed to connect my intercooler pipes. So this kit was supposed to give me one lamp operation of brights and headlight. The harness plug for the bights just hangs behind the radiator support unseen. The kit is installed properly and was checked 1000 times. So it's unpredictable behavior is simply something I cant explain. AND YES! My indicator for the brights is backwards too!

Some pics

 

[chrisgn6]

I hear you. Mines had the exact problems yours are having. One would come on, sometimes both or not come on. My right turn indicator on the dash was solid when I turned my headlights on. I replaced my instrument cluster ribbon and that solved the turn indicator. You very well could have junk kits. I buy my kits from a local shop so I can return if need be.


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[chrisgn6]

WOW THATS ONE BADASS RIDE. I hope you get your lights working. Electrical is my enemy. My electrical guy found a power back feed in my system and that's how I ended up replacing my cluster ribbon. Then a relay harness and my lights worked fine.


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[getdowngranny]

More than 50% of all the HIDs come from the same manufacturer. Having installed hundreds sets of HIDs in the past 15 years or so, you must run a relay if you expect any set of HIDs to last. Some cheap stuff last forever while some will not even work out the box. Same goes for high dollar stuff. Most of the kits have cheap finishing on the wires and connectors and are flimsy out of the box. Any kit will do if you check/fix/weatherproof the wires and connectors and run a relay. Newer vehicles require a capacitor to not set off a system warning light. I have not personally used any kits from our vendors and cannot speak of the quality. In my experience the best quality HIDs are factory installed HIDs specifically their ballast. The factory bulbs tend to be a Phillips brand build which are way pricier than others. Any factory ballast can be retrofitted on any car with the appropriate bulbs. One the same note, I have seen appropriately installed relay fed $25 eBay HID kits last years and years without issue. They are all honest me a crap shoot. A relay should be a requirement with any and every kit.


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[V6sleeper]

More than 50% of all the HIDs come from the same manufacturer. Having installed hundreds sets of HIDs in the past 15 years or so, you must run a relay if you expect any set of HIDs to last. Some cheap stuff last forever while some will not even work out the box. Same goes for high dollar stuff. Most of the kits have cheap finishing on the wires and connectors and are flimsy out of the box. Any kit will do if you check/fix/weatherproof the wires and connectors and run a relay. Newer vehicles require a capacitor to not set off a system warning light. I have not personally used any kits from our vendors and cannot speak of the quality. In my experience the best quality HIDs are factory installed HIDs specifically their ballast. The factory bulbs tend to be a Phillips brand build which are way pricier than others. Any factory ballast can be retrofitted on any car with the appropriate bulbs. One the same note, I have seen appropriately installed relay fed $25 eBay HID kits last years and years without issue. They are all honest me a crap shoot. A relay should be a requirement with any and every kit.


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I have the exact same problem with my Christmas Lights..

 

[mikes86ttop]

I've seen my buddies expensive hid setup,... Not impressed at all..,all I ended up trading a power master for a Kirbans upgrade kit and couldn't be happier...Mike

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

More than 50% of all the HIDs come from the same manufacturer. Having installed hundreds sets of HIDs in the past 15 years or so, you must run a relay if you expect any set of HIDs to last. Some cheap stuff last forever while some will not even work out the box. Same goes for high dollar stuff. Most of the kits have cheap finishing on the wires and connectors and are flimsy out of the box. Any kit will do if you check/fix/weatherproof the wires and connectors and run a relay. Newer vehicles require a capacitor to not set off a system warning light. I have not personally used any kits from our vendors and cannot speak of the quality. In my experience the best quality HIDs are factory installed HIDs specifically their ballast. The factory bulbs tend to be a Phillips brand build which are way pricier than others. Any factory ballast can be retrofitted on any car with the appropriate bulbs. One the same note, I have seen appropriately installed relay fed $25 eBay HID kits last years and years without issue. They are all honest me a crap shoot. A relay should be a requirement with any and every kit.


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This kit as well as the last one comes with a relay. I'm telling you, this thing has all that is needed to work as you guys says it should. And it still does weird shit! According to my reverse engineering diagnosis, the factory harness headlight plug is only used as a trigger for the relay. All the real power comes from a direct power wire with a 30 amp relay off the battery post on my inner fender (as shown in the pics above).

My motor is kept dust and oil free......Which means a rinse down, blow dry and polish every other week or so. So, maybe I haven't checked the plugs for water infiltration well enough. I'll start there. Otherwise, I'm going to need that info on those ballasts.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

I have the exact same problem with my Christmas Lights..

Bah! Humbug!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[chris kirk]

Chris, I'll get some pics to you soon. I'll PM the details just give me a little time.

Take your time, Joe.

Thanks you, I really appreciate it.

-Chris-

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

Take your time, Joe.

Thanks you, I really appreciate it.

-Chris-

Funny thing. I was just telling my girlfriend to remind me to photo my car for you when I read this. I'll shoot for Saturday night.

 

[NY Twin Turbo]

More than 50% of all the HIDs come from the same manufacturer. Having installed hundreds sets of HIDs in the past 15 years or so, you must run a relay if you expect any set of HIDs to last. Some cheap stuff last forever while some will not even work out the box. Same goes for high dollar stuff. Most of the kits have cheap finishing on the wires and connectors and are flimsy out of the box. Any kit will do if you check/fix/weatherproof the wires and connectors and run a relay. Newer vehicles require a capacitor to not set off a system warning light. I have not personally used any kits from our vendors and cannot speak of the quality. In my experience the best quality HIDs are factory installed HIDs specifically their ballast. The factory bulbs tend to be a Phillips brand build which are way pricier than others. Any factory ballast can be retrofitted on any car with the appropriate bulbs. One the same note, I have seen appropriately installed relay fed $25 eBay HID kits last years and years without issue. They are all honest me a crap shoot. A relay should be a requirement with any and every kit.


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Also, I was thinking. Could the f'n relay be getting "stuck"? I don't know. I'm running out of ideas. I'm tapping on stuff with the back of a screw driver to see if something comes to life. If I tap any harder I'll scratch something.........and my OCD prevents me from dealing with a scratch on something

 

[getdowngranny]

A finicky relay may be your issue. Like I mention before. The finish on all of the wiring on the Chinese kits are always suspect. You should try to see if you can borrow, buy, or make a PowerProbe to check for or inject positive or negative voltages where necessary while troubleshooting. I find the PowerProbe being my most valuable tool when working on anything electrical in a car.


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