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Cleaning the O2 sensor????

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sick GN

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
418
Is it possible to clean the O2 sensor?? I just replaced mine because I fouled it running some 110 through it. Is it possible to clean it and use it again?? Just wondering
 
I don't think so, but maybe someone else can chime in with a reason why...
 
Take it back to the store that sold you a bad O2 sensor:D It will work one or two times before they catch on:eek: :)
 
Originally posted by sick GN
Is it possible to clean the O2 sensor?? I just replaced mine because I fouled it running some 110 through it. Is it possible to clean it and use it again?? Just wondering

If you have a real good open loop chip sometimes you can save them with driving.
Or add a bung, and try it runnning it in a good atmosphere, assuming it's a heated one.

I've seen a totally dead one wake up after about 200 miles. Thou the experiment wasn't repeated to see if it was valid.

Otherwise, NO.
 
Two ideas...

First, I have read on this site, a couple years ago, that if you carefully cut the shroud off of a dead O2 sensor, that they will come back to life and work for a while. I have not tried this...but I will shortly since I am collecting quite a number of dead sensors!:(

Second, along the lines of what Bruce stated, if you get a dead one really hot (running really lean or maybe with a torch) you may melt some of the lead off the sensing surface and the sensor may work again for a while.

With a dead sensor, you might as well experiment and see if they can be revived. In fact, I need to experiment!:)

I am not sure whether the porous support (ceramic I would think) in front of the electrode catalyst material gets clogged with lead, or if the catalyst material itself (platinum or gold) is covered by it. Either way, the melting point of lead is much lower than them, so it should be able to be melted off. Only problem would be coaxing it out of the tiny ceramic pores...surface tension and capilary action may make this operation not so successful.

Just my two cents.
 
Originally posted by Intercooler
Take it back to the store that sold you a bad O2 sensor:D It will work one or two times before they catch on:eek: :)

I wonder how many vendors like reading stuff like this.
I'll refrain from getting into a flamefest..
 
Originally posted by bruce


I wonder how many vendors like reading stuff like this.
I'll refrain from getting into a flamefest..
One thing I do not buy from vendors. For one if I have a problem I want to take it back right then. Most of the time they will give you one more then tell you that is it. To go the vendor route would take entirely too long. Now if you can tune her with an EGT and Max-Effort setup you can pull that baby out when you have it set!
 
Originally posted by Intercooler
One thing I do not buy from vendors. For one if I have a problem I want to take it back right then. Most of the time they will give you one more then tell you that is it. To go the vendor route would take entirely too long. Now if you can tune her with an EGT and Max-Effort setup you can pull that baby out when you have it set!

You missed the point.
You caused a part to fail, and then asked for a warranty replacement. And to top it off you want good service on the warrranty.
 
Originally posted by bruce


You missed the point.
You caused a part to fail, and then asked for a warranty replacement. And to top it off you want good service on the warrranty.
I rather like to term it: bad gas! Yes, good service! I don't run a bunch of race gas so once a year is fine. Keeps those AutoZone guys on their toes:D
 
I read about someone trying the old lead remover, but I do not think it worked. Unless the lead remover dissolves the lead and keeps it in solution, then the lead may "soften", but won't come off unless some mechanical action is applied to it -- like rubbing or a bristle brush like what is used in the gun bores. I don't think it is possible to brush the sensing part of the O2 sensor.

Try it, let us know if it works!:)
 
I have an old pamphlet from Standard motor products. This is what it says: Carbon; Rich fuel mixtures will cause build up on the sensor. If carbonization occurs, it can usually be reversed by running the engine lean(pull a large vacuum hose), for 3 to 5 minutes at 2500 to 3000 RPM. Lead; lead contamination is the most common source of sensor fouling. Can be burned off by running the system with unleaded gasoline. However, when a lead-contaminated sensor is subjected to high heat( high speed or high load), the contamination is irreversible. Silicon; contamination is irreversible. Gasoline additives contain microscopic quantities of silicon, can deposit a glassy coating on the sensor. Antifreeze, certain rtv rubber gasket compounds, waterprofing sprays will do the same thing.

White: silicon contamination
Tan: lead contamination
Black: carbon

Hope this helps.
Michael
 
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