Complete engine rebuild recommendations
- Thread starter SlowTTA
- Start date
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simple.
go to a know good machine shop.
do not get the stock crank cut any farther than needed
forged pistons
2 center steel main caps, studs / all arp hardware.
stock rods cleaned polished
balence the complete rotating assembly
machine head surface flat
use stock gm headgaskets torque 5lbs higher than manual states
high volume front cover and you should be ok
now what you bolt on top will tell the story of how fast you can go.
go to a know good machine shop.
do not get the stock crank cut any farther than needed
forged pistons
2 center steel main caps, studs / all arp hardware.
stock rods cleaned polished
balence the complete rotating assembly
machine head surface flat
use stock gm headgaskets torque 5lbs higher than manual states
high volume front cover and you should be ok
now what you bolt on top will tell the story of how fast you can go.
trading t/a
I'm Angry!!!!!
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2001
- Messages
- 1,120
MY build if it ever gets done.
.030 JE's, arp studs(stock caps), arp rod bolts, slightly bigger cam, fully ported heads and intake matched. 010/010 crank
HTH!
.030 JE's, arp studs(stock caps), arp rod bolts, slightly bigger cam, fully ported heads and intake matched. 010/010 crank
HTH!
I had mine done .020 over JE's, stock rods, std stock crank, 4 steel caps and RJC girdle(I know, overkill but I figure it doesnt hurt). ARP rod bolts, head studs, and the hardware that came with the girdle on the bottom. Mild ported heads and gasket matched intake.
HTH,
Steve
HTH,
Steve
Well I am leaving my budget open but not trying to go to the overkill of performance mods. Girdle was a thought, but isn't there a clearance issue with that? JE pistons .030 over is going to be my choice, if cam still looks good I am going to keep it 216/216.
Also, does anyone have experience with doing the A/C delet on our cars(new belt #, routing, top alternator bolt. Any questions please ask.
Dave
Also, does anyone have experience with doing the A/C delet on our cars(new belt #, routing, top alternator bolt. Any questions please ask.
Dave
careful on doing the steel caps on the motor. If the machine shop is off just a rats hair.. you'll spin the mains and destroy the crank and block. we run really tight clearances on these motors. And you can dig up the posts where the caps have been done on Buicks.. then.. the **** hits the fan.
For a mid 11 second car or slower.. leave the stock bottom end alone. This is one of those areas where sometimes less is more.
The post didnt say whether you were building a 10 second motor or a driver in the 12's.
You can run GN pistons in a TTA motor from TRW. Yeah theyre a little higher in compression, but going .030 over will drop that a little. And 200 vs 600 is a lot. And depends on what your trying to accomplish.
Girdles will have crossmember clearance issues.
Hell even cheaper is get a GN shortblock, drop the TTA stuff on it.. bam your on the road $.
HTH
For a mid 11 second car or slower.. leave the stock bottom end alone. This is one of those areas where sometimes less is more.
The post didnt say whether you were building a 10 second motor or a driver in the 12's.
You can run GN pistons in a TTA motor from TRW. Yeah theyre a little higher in compression, but going .030 over will drop that a little. And 200 vs 600 is a lot. And depends on what your trying to accomplish.
Girdles will have crossmember clearance issues.
Hell even cheaper is get a GN shortblock, drop the TTA stuff on it.. bam your on the road $.
HTH
3.8TransAM
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2004
- Messages
- 325
Im awaiting my engines return from ANS in Melprose Park.
Im praying this week/next weekend.
I went the Eagle crank route, expensive, but could be worse and short of catostrophic failure, I wont kill it.
ARP bolts, rear 3 caps steel, Eagle crank new ,harmonic balancer for crank, roller cam
, heads done by Champion, Champion ported intake, shortened PTandE intercooler(we're playing with it)
Goal was bottom 11's on pump gas, with the grace of god 10's on pump gas. Gonna try it and see if its possible or how low i can go.
Im gonna owe Bruce a lot of burgers , pizza and pepsi for we're done. Looks like I may even end up running it on 749 ecm
I followed the do it once, do it right philosophy(car sat 2+ yrs) and the easiest way to go fast is overbuild it and detune it if u want power and reliability
later
Jeremy
PS going thru everything and getting heads worked also my basic ballpark for people seems to be 1000$ a hole or so( this is a complete reconditioning). Figure that then add in crank upgrades etc......
Im praying this week/next weekend.
I went the Eagle crank route, expensive, but could be worse and short of catostrophic failure, I wont kill it.
ARP bolts, rear 3 caps steel, Eagle crank new ,harmonic balancer for crank, roller cam
, heads done by Champion, Champion ported intake, shortened PTandE intercooler(we're playing with it)Goal was bottom 11's on pump gas, with the grace of god 10's on pump gas. Gonna try it and see if its possible or how low i can go.
Im gonna owe Bruce a lot of burgers , pizza and pepsi for we're done. Looks like I may even end up running it on 749 ecm
I followed the do it once, do it right philosophy(car sat 2+ yrs) and the easiest way to go fast is overbuild it and detune it if u want power and reliability
later
Jeremy
PS going thru everything and getting heads worked also my basic ballpark for people seems to be 1000$ a hole or so( this is a complete reconditioning). Figure that then add in crank upgrades etc......
Unfortunetly the engine won't jump out of the car by its self so it still sits in the car
I know that I have read about someone taking the A/C compressor off of their TTA, I was looking for a possible belt# and maybe routing. Any explanation would be good.
Thanks
Dave
I know that I have read about someone taking the A/C compressor off of their TTA, I was looking for a possible belt# and maybe routing. Any explanation would be good.
Thanks
Dave
I know that I have read about someone taking the A/C compressor off of their TTA, I was looking for a possible belt# and maybe routing. Any explanation would be good.
Thanks
Dave [/B][/QUOTE]
Hi Dave,
There is a pulley made that bolts to the block which replaces the AC. Conley's has it in stock and probably some of the other vendor's. I haven't priced it but you can give Conley's a call and probably get all the info you need including belt size if needed. The # is 281-540-3278 website is www.conleyracing.com.
Thanks
Dave [/B][/QUOTE]
Hi Dave,
There is a pulley made that bolts to the block which replaces the AC. Conley's has it in stock and probably some of the other vendor's. I haven't priced it but you can give Conley's a call and probably get all the info you need including belt size if needed. The # is 281-540-3278 website is www.conleyracing.com.
