Converter lockup problems-HELP!

[TR Custom Parts]

Was on the way to a track rental about 2 hours away and was about 15 minutes from the track and came up to a stoplight. The car felt like it was going to stall and then it downshifted into first. When I took off and it shifted into 2nd I could feel the torque converter instantly lock up and the same when shifting into Drive. It seemed to clear up and I raced the car after that and everything was fine and I was running 12.20's without a problem. On the way home it started doing it again and it was intermittent all the way home. Is this the TCC solenoid going bad? Is there a way to disable the lockup function until I can get it fixed? I have a TC lockup switch but it doesn't appear to have anything to do with that. Any help appreciated!

 

[blackplague]

Time to replace the solenoid.

Time to replace the solenoid unfortunately. Your best off just replacing the solenoid now than trying to disable it. Might as well change the fluid and filter for the extra nice touch while your there.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Was planning on driving it to a cruise nite tomorrow. Is there a way to disable it? Don't feel like taking a tranny fluid bath this weekend. Anyone know the part # for it?

 

[WE4]

First of all, install a 700r4 solenoid. I got them and they are cheap. Second, if you want to make your cruise, go ahead and disconnect the lock up connector on side of trans. Tie it up so you do not end up dragging it on road. BUT there are a few rules. Only drive slow and for not very long distances. Keep an eye on trans temp. But to cruise up and down the boulavard, you should be fine. DO NOT start running down freeway for any length of time. What you are doing is not reccommended but for one night to cruise you should be ok.
Enjoy the damn weekend, get out and have fun!

WE4

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Thanks Bruce but it looks like it will be spending the rest of the weekend in the garage. Can't drive slow as I would have to take the turnpike to go to the cruise, about 30 minutes away. So there is no way to disable the lockup safely then? If you disconnect the harness you are also disabling the pressure switch also, is that why it is not wise to drive it? Wonder if I hurt anything when racing it? I was letting the car completely cool off between runs and like I said it didn't start to act up again until I had left the track and it was intermittent. Most of the trip to the track was at speeds around 70mph so the converter would have been locked up anyway but it really sucked when I got in a traffic jam. What is the part# for the 7004r solenoid and is it something I can get from NAPA or should I get a GM one? Thanks for the help.

 

[WE4]

Any GM solenoid will do. You are gonna cut and splice anyway so it really doesnt matter. Here use this 89 chevy pick up short bed 350/700r4 with a 3.08 rear gear. 1/2 ton.

The reason it is not good is it will not cool and lube correctly. I am not going into long detail as I want to watch the NBA game, but that is why. Good luck and we have them for I think 20 bucks if you decide upon. Bruce.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Ended up taking the GN to the cruise and left everything hooked up and lo and behold it ran fine all nite. Still want to replace the solenoid as I am sure that was the problem. Bruce, can you tell me why the 7004r solenoid is better than the stock 2004r solenoid? Just wondering what the difference is.

 

[WE4]

One is electro magnet and the other is a plunger activated by an electro magnet. 700 is the prior. hehehehe getta changin.....
Glad you made your cruise.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

So I would assume that the 700 solenoid is more dependable than the 200? Is it a straightforward swap?

 

[WSLN 6]

Hey BuickGn, try doing an ohm reading of the solenoid at the tranny plug(Unplugged). Mine read 3 ohms when it was pooched, I think the new one read 23 ohms. Just a thought......

 

[Tony sy2356]

Hey all,

Just been trolling through this thread. Have the same problem on a friends GN. I plan to change the solenoid tommrow with the 700 design.

Bruce, you mentioned cutting and splicing the wires. Do i just match the colours? Is there anything special that I should know?


TIA


Tony

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Yeah, we need more details! I've got a stock TCC solenoid in my hands but want to know more details about why the 700 solenoid is better.

 

[MeanBuicks]

Originally posted by Tony sy2356
Do i just match the colours? Is there anything special that I should know?

Important! These solenoids have internal diodes that will fail imediately if hooked up backwards. Make sure that the solenoid + gets hooked up to terminal A & solenoid - gets hooked to terminal B.

 

[Clay Thompson]

FYI: Burned diodes--fix for cheap scapes

I've burned the diodes in several valves because I hooked up the positive wire to - (I'm using 200 4Rs in several non-Buick applications)

I disassembled the valves, found out about the diodes and bypassed the diodes and now they all work with either wire orenitation. However, I have started marking my connector with a red and black color codes just so in case I'm using a lockup valve that I have not burned a diode out of. (Got lots of junkyard parts/spares)

I'll try the 700 solenoid soon--now the shift into OD takes nearly 30 seconds from activation.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

700 L/U valve

Doesn't the 700 valve have to have a washer shim under each ear when it's bolted in?? Is there a difference in the OAL???
I see that on all the trannys here in my shop that have been "converted"...

 

[tim87tr]

Re: 700 L/U valve

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
Doesn't the 700 valve have to have a washer shim under each ear when it's bolted in?? Is there a difference in the OAL???
I see that on all the trannys here in my shop that have been "converted"...

Chuck, the one I bought from Bruce comes with the washer shims, wire splices, and instructions so you don't hook it up backwards. Mark, put in his shift kit while you have the trans pan off, you won't regret it.